diyAudio - Search Results
Well worth reading up on other people's mods if you haven't already. The first thread in the search has pictures of the pcb. Looks like the clock is on the top left corner. It's a crystal so just about anything is gonna be an upgrade. If you can find a 3.3V power source then a cheap quick and surprisingly effective upgrade would be a Euroquartz XO91. Just a few $. Or if you can wait a month or two, the Crystek CCHD-957 looks like a giant killer for US$30. I can also recommend Vanguard 0.3ppm tcxo (on Ebay). I haven't modded the CD210 so hopefully someone else can give you model-specific advice. I've done the Pioneer DV696A with this upsampling circuit :
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...l-output-pioneer-dv-575a-dv-578a-dsd-pcm.html
Have fun !
Well worth reading up on other people's mods if you haven't already. The first thread in the search has pictures of the pcb. Looks like the clock is on the top left corner. It's a crystal so just about anything is gonna be an upgrade. If you can find a 3.3V power source then a cheap quick and surprisingly effective upgrade would be a Euroquartz XO91. Just a few $. Or if you can wait a month or two, the Crystek CCHD-957 looks like a giant killer for US$30. I can also recommend Vanguard 0.3ppm tcxo (on Ebay). I haven't modded the CD210 so hopefully someone else can give you model-specific advice. I've done the Pioneer DV696A with this upsampling circuit :
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...l-output-pioneer-dv-575a-dv-578a-dsd-pcm.html
Have fun !
I have get good results with this IC:
MC12061 pdf, MC12061 description, MC12061 datasheets, MC12061 view ::: ALLDATASHEET :::
MC12061 pdf, MC12061 description, MC12061 datasheets, MC12061 view ::: ALLDATASHEET :::
Thanks KlipschKid and tiefbassuebertr.
I had a look inside the cd210, and almost anything can be upgraded.I want to do a new psu ,clock with separate psu and for the analog stage I thought about Jan Didden circuit from Audio Amateur. I would also change the bypass caps of the digital section with pp types.
I had a look inside the cd210, and almost anything can be upgraded.I want to do a new psu ,clock with separate psu and for the analog stage I thought about Jan Didden circuit from Audio Amateur. I would also change the bypass caps of the digital section with pp types.
Do you have any test equipment ? If not, you might end up chasing your tail down an expensive hole.... unless you have a second player so you can do a-b listening tests.... or just want to do it for fun.
KlipschKid,
I am doing it for fun,and learning,and for better sound. I know it will sound better after these mods. I was suprised when I heard an old Philips 614 with a new analog section,and nothing else changed.It sounded like a complitley different player.
Yes I have some test equpment to test it with.
Are there other (cost effective) mods you sugest?
I am doing it for fun,and learning,and for better sound. I know it will sound better after these mods. I was suprised when I heard an old Philips 614 with a new analog section,and nothing else changed.It sounded like a complitley different player.
Yes I have some test equpment to test it with.
Are there other (cost effective) mods you sugest?
For fun is the best way eh ? Is this your first go at modding ?
In my limited experience I would say the biggest gains I have found are made by changing
1) clock - low phase noise xo and very clean power
2) signal path caps - remove any electros and use nice poly caps like Wima, Sonicap, Mundorf, as your budget allows
3) power - bit more complicated because of the huge choice and suitability but I can recommend AMB's Sigma 11 and Sigma 22.
AMB Laboratories DIY Audio Site
4) analogue I/V, buffer, etc - I just started using AMB's a20 which is a class-A with jfet input and bjt output.
But I'm no expert. I am mech eng by education, uni teacher by profession, and I just love to pull things apart and upgrade them in my spare time. There are many ppl here who are pro so the trick is to get one of them interested ;-)
I'm not into NOS dacs but many ppl love the smooth sound so you could convert you player to NOS just for fun !
Looks like you and I are the only ones interested in this subject.Hahaha. Never mind.
This is my second atempt at moifying a cd player.First one I changed the output op amps and output caps on Yamaha cd player (don't remember the model).It sounded smoother.
Never mind being an expert, your expirience is what I'm interested in.I don't like to theorise much.If something works good, I don't care if it is not acording to theory.
Anyway, I agree with your sugestions. Can you recomend an output stage. I prefer discrete circuits to op amps.
This is my second atempt at moifying a cd player.First one I changed the output op amps and output caps on Yamaha cd player (don't remember the model).It sounded smoother.
Never mind being an expert, your expirience is what I'm interested in.I don't like to theorise much.If something works good, I don't care if it is not acording to theory.
Anyway, I agree with your sugestions. Can you recomend an output stage. I prefer discrete circuits to op amps.
Hi,
Ah, I get you... well the filter doesn't need to be anything special - just passive low pass 2nd order should do ? So pick low value resistors to keep Johnson noise down and some small (200pf ?) poly caps should do it. Wima are nice, so are Vishay MKP1837.
No special circuit needed for this I think ? Did you have something else in mind ?
EDIT actually, this is where some model-specific knowledge would really help - although the circuit is simple, I would look at the dac chip output capability and choose values to suit this, while keeping the resistor values as low as possible and of course, making sure I can source the right value caps in the type I want....all part of the fun ?!
Ah, I get you... well the filter doesn't need to be anything special - just passive low pass 2nd order should do ? So pick low value resistors to keep Johnson noise down and some small (200pf ?) poly caps should do it. Wima are nice, so are Vishay MKP1837.
No special circuit needed for this I think ? Did you have something else in mind ?
EDIT actually, this is where some model-specific knowledge would really help - although the circuit is simple, I would look at the dac chip output capability and choose values to suit this, while keeping the resistor values as low as possible and of course, making sure I can source the right value caps in the type I want....all part of the fun ?!
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TDA1543 mod in Philips CD210
Hi audioboard,
you want to mod your old Philips CD210.
Have you downloaded datasheet from TDA1543? Please read carefully. Try to get a service manual from CD210. I think this is very importand, so you will know exactly where to solder around
According datasheet there is no need of filtering the outputs.
Don't waste time and money throwing AMB circuit in - give the LME49710(single) or LME49720(dual) a try. THD is lower than 0,0000x (see datasheet!). Those chips are real worldbeaters!!!
Feedback R=1k2 is paralelled by C=3,3nF, this gives frequency pole about 41kHz. These are keyhole parts - use the best parts you can get - non inductive resistor and mica-cap. For further efforts lower resistance an try to set frequency pole exactly to 44.1 kHz(lower less trebles - higher more trebles) .
If you need output caps to prevent DC, use the very best tinfoil cap or MKP.
Clean up the signal lines from chipout to RCA connectors.
Throw out muting circuit,filters and all series resistors.
TDA1543 needs only one 5V rail - supply current could increase to max. 60mA. First aid is to decouple properly.
In some Philips players there is a series resistor(~R10), followed by a ecap(~47µF) to ground, feeding the chip.
Try to use a little coil(~10mH with not more than 50Ohm resistance) and replace ecap with minimum 1000µF/10V. For best results use Panasonic FM series, FCseries is also quite good. Because this is an audio-chip dont use OSCON here, music suffers.
All ecaps for chip digital decupling to ground should be removed to dustbin immediately - use OSCON with minimum 220µF/10V - dont waste money for black gates!!!
Don't forget the coils instead of the series resistors if build in.
Do the same mod to your build in headphone amp. Comparison would be easier than signal runs through all the
stereo equipment. Headphone should be a better one!
Dont use boutique-caps as often told, the Panasonics are worth every cent you pay for.
Take also a look to Google, for "TDA1543" you can get informations reading for weeks
Happy soldering
Regards Harry
Hi audioboard,
you want to mod your old Philips CD210.
Have you downloaded datasheet from TDA1543? Please read carefully. Try to get a service manual from CD210. I think this is very importand, so you will know exactly where to solder around
According datasheet there is no need of filtering the outputs.
Don't waste time and money throwing AMB circuit in - give the LME49710(single) or LME49720(dual) a try. THD is lower than 0,0000x (see datasheet!). Those chips are real worldbeaters!!!
Feedback R=1k2 is paralelled by C=3,3nF, this gives frequency pole about 41kHz. These are keyhole parts - use the best parts you can get - non inductive resistor and mica-cap. For further efforts lower resistance an try to set frequency pole exactly to 44.1 kHz(lower less trebles - higher more trebles) .
If you need output caps to prevent DC, use the very best tinfoil cap or MKP.
Clean up the signal lines from chipout to RCA connectors.
Throw out muting circuit,filters and all series resistors.
TDA1543 needs only one 5V rail - supply current could increase to max. 60mA. First aid is to decouple properly.
In some Philips players there is a series resistor(~R10), followed by a ecap(~47µF) to ground, feeding the chip.
Try to use a little coil(~10mH with not more than 50Ohm resistance) and replace ecap with minimum 1000µF/10V. For best results use Panasonic FM series, FCseries is also quite good. Because this is an audio-chip dont use OSCON here, music suffers.
All ecaps for chip digital decupling to ground should be removed to dustbin immediately - use OSCON with minimum 220µF/10V - dont waste money for black gates!!!
Don't forget the coils instead of the series resistors if build in.
Do the same mod to your build in headphone amp. Comparison would be easier than signal runs through all the
stereo equipment. Headphone should be a better one!
Dont use boutique-caps as often told, the Panasonics are worth every cent you pay for.
Take also a look to Google, for "TDA1543" you can get informations reading for weeks
Happy soldering
Regards Harry
Thank you Harry,
Lot of info there.I just took a quick look at the service manual,and I don't know why I tought that there was TDA1541 chip inside. I'll have a closer look, later today. Anyway,this could be made a no oversampling cd player with the output direct from the 1543, or maybe trough a buffer.What would you suggest? And, your toughts on oscillator circuit in the attachement is welcome.
Lot of info there.I just took a quick look at the service manual,and I don't know why I tought that there was TDA1541 chip inside. I'll have a closer look, later today. Anyway,this could be made a no oversampling cd player with the output direct from the 1543, or maybe trough a buffer.What would you suggest? And, your toughts on oscillator circuit in the attachement is welcome.
TDA1543 mods
Hi,
Philips TDA1543 is a 16bit non oversampling chip ;-(
Chip has current outputs - so I/V converter is on motherboard.
Throwing in oscillator-circuit (=clock) is not as big step forward as usually desired.This should be the very last mod you do. Have you checked suitable frequency for this chip?
At first rework motherboard completely as described before.
The way I described is easy, if you are a soldering-master, you can give the TDA1543chip (and others of course) their own regulation.
pleasepleaseplease :
read datasheet
buy service manual
use forum search
use Google info
Happy soldering
Regards Harry
Hi,
Philips TDA1543 is a 16bit non oversampling chip ;-(
Chip has current outputs - so I/V converter is on motherboard.
Throwing in oscillator-circuit (=clock) is not as big step forward as usually desired.This should be the very last mod you do. Have you checked suitable frequency for this chip?
At first rework motherboard completely as described before.
The way I described is easy, if you are a soldering-master, you can give the TDA1543chip (and others of course) their own regulation.
pleasepleaseplease :
read datasheet
buy service manual
use forum search
use Google info
Happy soldering
Regards Harry
Just reading this thread but the advice for not using a low jitter clock and Black gate caps are peculiar. I have used quite some low jitter clocks and BG caps and both are a good investment. With BG I mean the N and NX series.
I rate using a Tent clock in the majority of cdplayers as 40 to 50 % of most effective mods one can do provided one feeds it with a separate power supply. I start with the clock circuit, then replacing caps and change opamps for better ones or a different output stage in that order.
Nevertheless the given advice is quite right with some minor additions:
read datasheet
buy/find service manual
use forum search
use Google info
first think then change things
not more than one mod at a time
listen between changes
I rate using a Tent clock in the majority of cdplayers as 40 to 50 % of most effective mods one can do provided one feeds it with a separate power supply. I start with the clock circuit, then replacing caps and change opamps for better ones or a different output stage in that order.
Nevertheless the given advice is quite right with some minor additions:
read datasheet
buy/find service manual
use forum search
use Google info
first think then change things
not more than one mod at a time
listen between changes
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