Hi, I'm new here so apologies now if this is in wrong place etc but I'm panicking. I can't live without my Audiolab 8000CD (pre TAG) but it is dead! (Won't break into the parrot sketch - but you get the picture!) I'm awaiting a reply from Kevin at Audio Cellar who I know is the guru on these things, but in the meantime any pointers would be appreciated. Basically switched it on and nothing.
If it's dead dead that shouldn't be too hard to locate.
Assuming it uses a linear PSU (mains transformer type rather than switchmode) then first stop is to check whether there is any resistance between live and neutral (with it UNPLUGGED). Should read quite low ohms. If nothing then there is an open circuit somewhere... fuse or possibly thermal fuse embedded in the transformer itself. These are not normally replaceable.
If thats OK then it's a case of checking the voltage rails on the secondary side of the transformer.
Many items suffer from failed electroylitic capacitors which can cause fuses/circuit protectors/safety resistors to fail. That's a quick easy fix. Any of the larger capacitors showing signs of splitting at the top or of having bulges or running hot ?
Maybe post a close up picture of the power supply
Assuming it uses a linear PSU (mains transformer type rather than switchmode) then first stop is to check whether there is any resistance between live and neutral (with it UNPLUGGED). Should read quite low ohms. If nothing then there is an open circuit somewhere... fuse or possibly thermal fuse embedded in the transformer itself. These are not normally replaceable.
If thats OK then it's a case of checking the voltage rails on the secondary side of the transformer.
Many items suffer from failed electroylitic capacitors which can cause fuses/circuit protectors/safety resistors to fail. That's a quick easy fix. Any of the larger capacitors showing signs of splitting at the top or of having bulges or running hot ?
Maybe post a close up picture of the power supply
Put your meter on a low ohms range (say 0 to 200 ohms). If you now short the test leads together the meter should show essentially 0.00 (or very near) meaning a dead short... no resistance other than that of the leads.
So you now measure across the mains lead of the CD player. One lead on live and one on neutral. If there is a mechanical power switch on the player make sure it is on. The meter should show the resistance of the transformer primary which will be low. If it does then that is OK and we move on to test the other things.
So you now measure across the mains lead of the CD player. One lead on live and one on neutral. If there is a mechanical power switch on the player make sure it is on. The meter should show the resistance of the transformer primary which will be low. If it does then that is OK and we move on to test the other things.
Hi minipete,
it may sound a silly question but have you tried checking the fuse on the rear panel just above the AC Socket? also the 4 internal fuses? If I remember correctly the 800cd used 2 PSU's, 1 for the fascia/cd drawer etc etc and 1 for the digital/analogue section. If something had failed internally I would expect either the display to be 'off' or no audio, not both.
Maybe worth a look?
Ant
That sounds OK. It should read the same between the pins on the mains plug too. Check that as I can't be sure without actually seeing the unit that the "mains switch" actually works on the primary side of the transformer.
Anyway, the next thing is to plug in and switch on and with your meter on AC VOLTS (say 200 volt range) connect the leads between those orange and red wires. You should get a reading probably around 12 to 20 volts. If so then the front end of the power supply is OK and it gets a bit more difficult. Would have to see detailed pics of board (both sides). If you can come up with a service manual or circuit diagram it will much easier...
Anyway, the next thing is to plug in and switch on and with your meter on AC VOLTS (say 200 volt range) connect the leads between those orange and red wires. You should get a reading probably around 12 to 20 volts. If so then the front end of the power supply is OK and it gets a bit more difficult. Would have to see detailed pics of board (both sides). If you can come up with a service manual or circuit diagram it will much easier...
Thanks both - not a silly question Ant as I wanted to know where these fuses were anyway as I can't see them. Now I do - although not at first obvious (need to start wearing my 'readers' more - no fun passing 40!) and I think the attached pic speaks for itself. Apologies for wasting everyone's time amd thanks Mooly, although I was already out of my depth finding the fuses so I'm relieved it hasn't gone any further - however:
Why has this blown?
Where do I get a replacment?
Why has this blown?
Where do I get a replacment?
Attachments
Not a problem minipete,
Good of Mooly to help, although I'd have thought he would have said check the fuses first too.
Anyway, are the fuses 20mm x 5mm? also, what rating are they (should be printed around the top band) I'm guessing 250mA?
Maybe just a surge caused the 'blow', is the cd player connected to a mains extension with lots of other equipment? Try another fuse and if it doesn't blow it's fine, if it does, you have a problem inside the unit. It won't hurt to try.
Last but not least, "where to get one from?" where are you situated (UK?), I may be able to point you in the right direction.
Ant
Good of Mooly to help, although I'd have thought he would have said check the fuses first too.
Anyway, are the fuses 20mm x 5mm? also, what rating are they (should be printed around the top band) I'm guessing 250mA?
Maybe just a surge caused the 'blow', is the cd player connected to a mains extension with lots of other equipment? Try another fuse and if it doesn't blow it's fine, if it does, you have a problem inside the unit. It won't hurt to try.
Last but not least, "where to get one from?" where are you situated (UK?), I may be able to point you in the right direction.
Ant
Thanks again Ant, I'm up and running! Maplin do them and I'm only 10mins away so like the big kid I am I rushed out and got 'em. Works fine now. TBH fuses were my first thought but couldn't locate them and then made my mind up it was more serious anyway (being the pessimist I am!) I got it off e-bay and you never know, but it's back sounding the ****! Good to have found you guys anyway as I have an 8000S and 2 x 8000M and without tempting fate it's only a matter of time! However I will be a bit more measured before I steam in if there is a next time. Yes - it's on an extension with the bits mentioned above, albeit a good quality one.
Pete
Pete
Good stuff Pete, glad it's all turned out 'dandy'.
I like the early Audiolab stuff alot, I used to own pretty much the same setup as yourself and it was great. May I ask what speakers you are using?
Back to the mains extension though, is it one of those black Tacima jobbies with a clear perspex window by any chance? If it is, a little bit of advise...... don't use it, disregard what 'what-hifi' say about it (they're going to say it's good as at the time of review, Tacima bought up pages upon pages of expensive advertising), it's sh*t for audio, the coil based smoothers kills dynamics, try your setup without asap. Much more 'punch', 'kick' and down right 'attack' without the thing.
If you need to use a mains extension, just get a simple cheap one with no protection.
Ant.
I like the early Audiolab stuff alot, I used to own pretty much the same setup as yourself and it was great. May I ask what speakers you are using?
Back to the mains extension though, is it one of those black Tacima jobbies with a clear perspex window by any chance? If it is, a little bit of advise...... don't use it, disregard what 'what-hifi' say about it (they're going to say it's good as at the time of review, Tacima bought up pages upon pages of expensive advertising), it's sh*t for audio, the coil based smoothers kills dynamics, try your setup without asap. Much more 'punch', 'kick' and down right 'attack' without the thing.
If you need to use a mains extension, just get a simple cheap one with no protection.
Ant.
Hi ant
firstly apols for any typos, doing this on phone. I have monitor audio bronze. Had them years now as i'm in a semi with a moody neighbour so do a lot of listening thru phones now. When i do let it go tho it really sings extension is a russ andrews jobby from pre kids and dual income days!
Pete
firstly apols for any typos, doing this on phone. I have monitor audio bronze. Had them years now as i'm in a semi with a moody neighbour so do a lot of listening thru phones now. When i do let it go tho it really sings extension is a russ andrews jobby from pre kids and dual income days!
Pete
No need to apologise at all. MA bronze are very very good speakers for the money, I had a pair of MA RS6's floor standers and they were superb, a little bright maybe for some for me they were sublime, deep, punchy (I like punchy BTW). Have you thought of using a cheap Beresford DAC to drive your phones? Lots of potential without breaking the bank, easy diy upgrades galore.
Ant
Cheers Mooly. Interesting suggestion Ant on the Beresford - tell me more. I was under the impression I'd be doing OK going through the 'S' (and it does sound good to be fair) but like all us obsessives if it can be improved...are you saying this would be best just for headphone listening, perhaps connecting it straight to the 'Ms'? Going back to the extension block - the truth is I haven't looked at a copy of WHF for years, the plan was to get the Audiolab system as it is now and leave it at that. You've got me started again now! BTW I don't want to be cheeky but is there a 'For Sale' section on here as the 8000CD replaces a Rega Planet now residing under the sofa.
Morning,
If you're happy and it sounds good, no need to change anything but if you are tempted by a headphone amp...... The Beresford range are a stand alone dac/pre amp/headphone amp all in one unit, they can be had second hand for under £100, although I wouldn't bother with one in your situation as I'd say the 8000CD has a 'better' DAC for starters, then you have the pre-amp which you don't need, so that leaves the headphone amp which to be fair, there are better 'dedicated' ones out there for not a lot of money possibly including the 'Pro-ject head box II' new at under a ton or one of Graham Slee's many incarnations.
OR... seeing as this is the DIY Audio site, you could always take your hand to building your own? It's not as hard as you may think, there's loads of threads out there which will help you out, alternatively there are quite a few good but cheap kits available on the market too if that takes your fancy?
Sorry
, you'd do right to leave it as it is, it's a bl00dy good setup. Yes, it's under 'Swap meet'.
All the best,
Ant
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Thanks Ant - very clear. I must admit I was thinking that a one-box player that went for over a grand when new must have a pretty decent DAC, but then things get improved etc so always worth a thought.
"Pay off debts - no new toys, pay off debts no new toys, pay off....if I say it enough!
Cheers
Pete
"Pay off debts - no new toys, pay off debts no new toys, pay off....if I say it enough!
Cheers
Pete
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