I got this unit for free, but it doesn't work... I already changed a semiconductor fuse on the PS board, as the analog +12V rail was missing. But this didn't cure the following two problems:
- Something is wrong with the drawer control. It looks like the controller doesn't realize the drawer is in its end position, because the drawer opens and closes all the time without pressing a button. The switch on the drawer is ok, though - I checked it. To make the player try to read a disc, you have to switch the unit off and on again in the moment the drawer is closed.
- When initializing, the pickup moves back towards the center of the disc and the focus servo seems to work. I held a disc above the lens and carefully moved it up and down - the lens followed. However, the spindle motor starts spinning like mad - no disc is recognized.
There are no pots in the unit except for playback power, CD-R record power and CD-RW record power.
Can anyone experienced fixing CD players help me with this one?
Thanks
- Something is wrong with the drawer control. It looks like the controller doesn't realize the drawer is in its end position, because the drawer opens and closes all the time without pressing a button. The switch on the drawer is ok, though - I checked it. To make the player try to read a disc, you have to switch the unit off and on again in the moment the drawer is closed.
- When initializing, the pickup moves back towards the center of the disc and the focus servo seems to work. I held a disc above the lens and carefully moved it up and down - the lens followed. However, the spindle motor starts spinning like mad - no disc is recognized.
There are no pots in the unit except for playback power, CD-R record power and CD-RW record power.
Can anyone experienced fixing CD players help me with this one?
Thanks
Update
After having a closer look, I realized a defective 5V/1F "gold cap" and some corroded PCB tracks in this area. After removing it and thorough cleaning (there were no interruptions in the tracks or vias), the player now recognizes a disc and plays it.
However, when pressing the "record" button, the disc spins for a while, then stops. A blinking "check" message is displayed.
Also the drawer problem still persists, although I could trace the signal from the switch to a chip "PD4956B". The signal is 0V when the disc is clamped, 2.5V as long as the drawer is in transit, and 5V when the drawer is open. This signal is obviously ignored.
Any hope for the recorder?
After having a closer look, I realized a defective 5V/1F "gold cap" and some corroded PCB tracks in this area. After removing it and thorough cleaning (there were no interruptions in the tracks or vias), the player now recognizes a disc and plays it.
However, when pressing the "record" button, the disc spins for a while, then stops. A blinking "check" message is displayed.
Also the drawer problem still persists, although I could trace the signal from the switch to a chip "PD4956B". The signal is 0V when the disc is clamped, 2.5V as long as the drawer is in transit, and 5V when the drawer is open. This signal is obviously ignored.
Any hope for the recorder?
The flashing "check" message indicates a software error which is common to the PDR-555RW and Fostex models made by Pioneer on this board. I've seen several like this.
Unfortunately this is an issue that requires an expensive main PCB replacement. It will cost between $250.00-$350.00 to have Pioneer or Fostex replace the board. That's well in excess of the current market value of this unit.
The PDR-509 and PDR-609 have a different processor and do not have this problem.
I have never seen the CD drawer problem you describe, but it could be that buggy motherboard.
John
Unfortunately this is an issue that requires an expensive main PCB replacement. It will cost between $250.00-$350.00 to have Pioneer or Fostex replace the board. That's well in excess of the current market value of this unit.
The PDR-509 and PDR-609 have a different processor and do not have this problem.
I have never seen the CD drawer problem you describe, but it could be that buggy motherboard.
John
Thank you for your help.
A main board exchange is really not economic, even if I could get one for cheap I'd still have to adjust the laser powers for REC and PB which requires a laser power meter.
On the other hand, how can a software error occur when the unit was functioning correctly before?
A main board exchange is really not economic, even if I could get one for cheap I'd still have to adjust the laser powers for REC and PB which requires a laser power meter.
On the other hand, how can a software error occur when the unit was functioning correctly before?
I’ve asked Pioneer support about the specific nature of the problem, but they won’t go into details at the board level. They don’t replace components on the board, but rather replace the whole board. The tech I spoke with used the terms software and system error interchangeably.
I’ve seen a few of these units with this problem. The customer complains that the unit began “skipping” during the recording process a few months before it fails. Suddenly one day they press record and get the blinking “Check” message. The unit continues to play CDs fine, but no record function at all.
I have one in my shop that the customer didn’t want back. I am planning to do a complete tear down and examination, but haven’t had the time yet. I will post the results to this thread.
My guess is there is a component that breaks down over time, possibly from an under spec operating temp range. It may be a relatively simple failure that causes a domino effect on other components, and ultimately the main processor.
The service manual uses the term “System error” in relation to electrostatic problems. The manual states the following in the troubleshooting section:
DISPLAY: Blinks Check
CAUSE: A system error occurred, perhaps due to noise or static electricity.
TREATMENT: Unplug the power cord and plug it in again. If the same message is displayed again, please contact a Pioneer authorized service center.
If you got one of these for free I would hang on to it in case we solve the mystery, but I don’t recommend anyone go shopping for one of these on the used market unless they want a “project.”
These PDR-555RW models are a pain in the 
If I don't get mine sold, I may try to fix it again. It hardly likes any brand of CD and skips on record. I haven't got a good copy on it yet. I've cleaned it with a CD cleaner disk, so I know it's not a simple fix.
Any body figured this out yet short of the $300.00 fix by Pioneer?
Dave
If I don't get mine sold, I may try to fix it again. It hardly likes any brand of CD and skips on record. I haven't got a good copy on it yet. I've cleaned it with a CD cleaner disk, so I know it's not a simple fix.
Any body figured this out yet short of the $300.00 fix by Pioneer?
Dave
FIX FOR THE PIONEER PDR-555 CD RECORDER
Problem: Display blinks “Check” message when pressing the record button.
After hours of checking the main PC board I realized I was barking up the wrong tree. I finally narrowed it down to the function PCB, which is located behind the front panel. I did several things here and I’m not sure which one solved the problem. But it is working like new.
Upon removing the function PCB I examined it with a magnifying lamp and noticed the foil side was covered with a sticky film. I believe this was a substance applied to the board during production to prevent corrosion. It could have been residue from a drink spilled in the unit, but I’m not sure. I’ve heard of coatings like these becoming conductive with age.
I removed the sticky substance with a spray solvent. You can use an electric components solvent, such as Bonafied made by Drummond America, or similar. I used a can of Birchwood-Casey Gun Scrubber, used for cleaning firearms because that’s all I had on hand.
After spraying both sides I noticed a light brown reside that had run off unto the paper beneath it. I then cleaned around the main IC with a fine brass brush (also a gun cleaning item made by Hoppes) an old toothbrush might do as well. After that I sprayed it down again and let it dry in front of a fan.
The next step was to replace four electrolytic capacitors (the only ones on the board). There are two 16v 100uf, and two 16v 47uf.
What fixed it? I’m not sure. I don’t have a capacitor checker, so I don’t know that these caps were bad. In the process of removing the board I disconnected a few ribbon cables. It is possible that breaking these connections alone resolved a static issue. I tend to think it was the sticky coating. Some Yamaha products from the mid-80’s, such as the SPX90 had this coating problem. However it could have been a spilled drink. The way the bonnet fits to the panel would allow the fluid to flow right onto the function PCB.
Anyway, it works great and I hope you have the same good outcome.
Problem: Display blinks “Check” message when pressing the record button.
After hours of checking the main PC board I realized I was barking up the wrong tree. I finally narrowed it down to the function PCB, which is located behind the front panel. I did several things here and I’m not sure which one solved the problem. But it is working like new.
Upon removing the function PCB I examined it with a magnifying lamp and noticed the foil side was covered with a sticky film. I believe this was a substance applied to the board during production to prevent corrosion. It could have been residue from a drink spilled in the unit, but I’m not sure. I’ve heard of coatings like these becoming conductive with age.
I removed the sticky substance with a spray solvent. You can use an electric components solvent, such as Bonafied made by Drummond America, or similar. I used a can of Birchwood-Casey Gun Scrubber, used for cleaning firearms because that’s all I had on hand.
After spraying both sides I noticed a light brown reside that had run off unto the paper beneath it. I then cleaned around the main IC with a fine brass brush (also a gun cleaning item made by Hoppes) an old toothbrush might do as well. After that I sprayed it down again and let it dry in front of a fan.
The next step was to replace four electrolytic capacitors (the only ones on the board). There are two 16v 100uf, and two 16v 47uf.
What fixed it? I’m not sure. I don’t have a capacitor checker, so I don’t know that these caps were bad. In the process of removing the board I disconnected a few ribbon cables. It is possible that breaking these connections alone resolved a static issue. I tend to think it was the sticky coating. Some Yamaha products from the mid-80’s, such as the SPX90 had this coating problem. However it could have been a spilled drink. The way the bonnet fits to the panel would allow the fluid to flow right onto the function PCB.
Anyway, it works great and I hope you have the same good outcome.
Pioneer 555RW
this is wild...an old thread...
but my CDR just went out.
first skipping CDR's...
then the drawer started openning and closing by itself.
then add the Check Disc...or CHECK....
then drawer would be totally lost close is open etc...
i tried the mentioned inputs nothing worked.
its FUBAR..... just had to add this as it was so strange the exact thing mentioned in #5 happened to this unit.
oh well...hell 11yrs?? not bad, can't complain....other than it sucks not having my standalone CDR!
this is wild...an old thread...
but my CDR just went out.
first skipping CDR's...
then the drawer started openning and closing by itself.
then add the Check Disc...or CHECK....
then drawer would be totally lost close is open etc...
i tried the mentioned inputs nothing worked.
its FUBAR..... just had to add this as it was so strange the exact thing mentioned in #5 happened to this unit.
oh well...hell 11yrs?? not bad, can't complain....other than it sucks not having my standalone CDR!
Haley1
Found this on another board:
Post #7
FIX FOR THE PIONEER PDR-555 CD RECORDER
Problem: Display blinks “Check” message when pressing the record button.
After hours of checking the main PC board I realized I was barking up the wrong tree. I finally narrowed it down to the function PCB, which is located behind the front panel. I did several things here and I’m not sure which one solved the problem. But it is working like new.
Upon removing the function PCB I examined it with a magnifying lamp and noticed the foil side was covered with a sticky film. I believe this was a substance applied to the board during production to prevent corrosion. It could have been residue from a drink spilled in the unit, but I’m not sure. I’ve heard of coatings like these becoming conductive with age.
I removed the sticky substance with a spray solvent. You can use an electric components solvent, such as Bonafied made by Drummond America, or similar. I used a can of Birchwood-Casey Gun Scrubber, used for cleaning firearms because that’s all I had on hand.
After spraying both sides I noticed a light brown reside that had run off unto the paper beneath it. I then cleaned around the main IC with a fine brass brush (also a gun cleaning item made by Hoppes) an old toothbrush might do as well. After that I sprayed it down again and let it dry in front of a fan.
The next step was to replace four electrolytic capacitors (the only ones on the board). There are two 16v 100uf, and two 16v 47uf.
What fixed it? I’m not sure. I don’t have a capacitor checker, so I don’t know that these caps were bad. In the process of removing the board I disconnected a few ribbon cables. It is possible that breaking these connections alone resolved a static issue. I tend to think it was the sticky coating. Some Yamaha products from the mid-80’s, such as the SPX90 had this coating problem. However it could have been a spilled drink. The way the bonnet fits to the panel would allow the fluid to flow right onto the function PCB.
Anyway, it works great and I hope you have the same good outcome.
Found this on another board:
Post #7
FIX FOR THE PIONEER PDR-555 CD RECORDER
Problem: Display blinks “Check” message when pressing the record button.
After hours of checking the main PC board I realized I was barking up the wrong tree. I finally narrowed it down to the function PCB, which is located behind the front panel. I did several things here and I’m not sure which one solved the problem. But it is working like new.
Upon removing the function PCB I examined it with a magnifying lamp and noticed the foil side was covered with a sticky film. I believe this was a substance applied to the board during production to prevent corrosion. It could have been residue from a drink spilled in the unit, but I’m not sure. I’ve heard of coatings like these becoming conductive with age.
I removed the sticky substance with a spray solvent. You can use an electric components solvent, such as Bonafied made by Drummond America, or similar. I used a can of Birchwood-Casey Gun Scrubber, used for cleaning firearms because that’s all I had on hand.
After spraying both sides I noticed a light brown reside that had run off unto the paper beneath it. I then cleaned around the main IC with a fine brass brush (also a gun cleaning item made by Hoppes) an old toothbrush might do as well. After that I sprayed it down again and let it dry in front of a fan.
The next step was to replace four electrolytic capacitors (the only ones on the board). There are two 16v 100uf, and two 16v 47uf.
What fixed it? I’m not sure. I don’t have a capacitor checker, so I don’t know that these caps were bad. In the process of removing the board I disconnected a few ribbon cables. It is possible that breaking these connections alone resolved a static issue. I tend to think it was the sticky coating. Some Yamaha products from the mid-80’s, such as the SPX90 had this coating problem. However it could have been a spilled drink. The way the bonnet fits to the panel would allow the fluid to flow right onto the function PCB.
Anyway, it works great and I hope you have the same good outcome.
Hello , thx to this forum My Pioneer PDR 555 is again in first order . I had same problem , open close,open close , check disc , no recording , i found the last thread number 7 and it is correct !! solved my problems , washed the complete board with degreazsing alcohol , took of a black duoblesided sticker , replaced all the caps with same new 100 UF SMD caps 16 volt types and my player is again first class functioning .
so I really don't know was it the caps , they are apparently on the suply voltage and since I have soldered in the best quality available , or was it the sticker , I don't know , I know only that my recorder is back like new , I had it about 11 years now and recorded only maybe 100 discs with it it's still like new , clean and shiny , and it was a pitty not to try and repair it . i donated 5 USD for the site thank you very much for the help !!
Benjamin in Belgium .
so I really don't know was it the caps , they are apparently on the suply voltage and since I have soldered in the best quality available , or was it the sticker , I don't know , I know only that my recorder is back like new , I had it about 11 years now and recorded only maybe 100 discs with it it's still like new , clean and shiny , and it was a pitty not to try and repair it . i donated 5 USD for the site thank you very much for the help !!
Benjamin in Belgium .
Fixed my PDR-555RW also!
Hi folks,
Thanks for the good information in this thread, which I found via Google. I'd bought a supposedly-working PDR-555RW some time ago, and even after I replaced the leaking "supercap" at C205 on the main board and cleaned up the traces, it simply wouldn't recognize any media (it always ended up at CHECK DISC).
So following the suggestions above, I cleaned the back of the "function" board (it wasn't terribly sticky but it did feel like there was something on part of it), and then I replaced the 3 electrolytic capacitors (mine had only 3, C705, C711, and C739). And voila! It works!!
I don't have a capacitor tester, but my voltmeter makes me somewhat suspicious of the capacitor from C705. None of the capacitors showed any physical signs of problems, and they were all rated at 10v (the service manual shows they are all used to smooth the +5v power so they shouldn't have been stressed). I didn't measure any voltages beforehand, either, so I just don't know what fixed it - but I'm happy it's working now!
Hi folks,
Thanks for the good information in this thread, which I found via Google. I'd bought a supposedly-working PDR-555RW some time ago, and even after I replaced the leaking "supercap" at C205 on the main board and cleaned up the traces, it simply wouldn't recognize any media (it always ended up at CHECK DISC).
So following the suggestions above, I cleaned the back of the "function" board (it wasn't terribly sticky but it did feel like there was something on part of it), and then I replaced the 3 electrolytic capacitors (mine had only 3, C705, C711, and C739). And voila! It works!!
I don't have a capacitor tester, but my voltmeter makes me somewhat suspicious of the capacitor from C705. None of the capacitors showed any physical signs of problems, and they were all rated at 10v (the service manual shows they are all used to smooth the +5v power so they shouldn't have been stressed). I didn't measure any voltages beforehand, either, so I just don't know what fixed it - but I'm happy it's working now!
I was asked if i could look at and possibly fix this unit for a freind of mine. I did as the others had and had no luck. so i called him and told him i was unable to fix the problem and he told me just to as i pleased with it. Before tossing the unit out i tried one last thing after finding a FREE service manual( which took me the likes of a few hours searching google). In the manual i found a procedure to adjust the rec gain on the mainboard. I didnt follow the instructions due to not having a laser power meter but i just turned the 2 pots 102 and 103 about a 32nd of a turn and tried to record. I was able to get a recording but with much static and skipping so i turned another 32nd of a turn and it got better so i went a 64th of a turn, and tried it and voalla. I fixed it. I just thought i would share my story to others about the pdr-555rw.
Hmmm... I originally wrote that after hours of troubleshooting my PDR-555 a few years ago and posted it here at diyaudio.
~Tim
THE NUMBER ONE THING that goes wrong with PDR-555RW(aka PDR-19RW, PDR-V500, HHB CDR-850, Fostex CR300), and almost the ONLY thing that goes wrong is a STUPID part choice made to fullfill a USELESS function. Otherwise, fantastic recorders.
In order to maintain syscon memory in case of power outage, so that you don't waste a $0.90 cd-r if power goes out in the midst of recording, Pioneer chose the WORST POSSIBLE memory backup capacitor- a vertical mount Elna gold cap, usually 0.1F/5.5V. This horrible little cap likes to LEAK corrosive electrolyte, which creeps around the top AND bottom sides of the circuit board, and can cause random corrosion in about a 3 inch radius around the cap. FIRST STEP: Remove the cap & DON'T replace it. Leave the spot blank. It's a useless part for a useless function that NOBODY will ever miss. SECOND STEP: Very carefully examine traces for sub-enamel corrosion(trace will be darker), scrape away the enamel & corrosion to expose shiny copper, then either solder over it and/or apply an electrical insulating enamel/sealant. THIRD & HARDEST STEP: The corrosive electrolyte LOVES to attack the metallised(vapor deposition) through-holes that pass current from bottom to top of board & vice-versa. Using MAGNIFICATION, carefully examine all through-holes on main board that are within 4 inches of the removed cap, and repair ANY that are at all showing discoloration pitting under the enamel. To repair these, you have to poke through each one with a very sharp, thin, needle-like implement, then run a wire(a strand of a stranded wire, usually, to be thin enough) and solder to each top & bottom circuit trace joined by the hole, by scraping enough enamel off of each trace to provide solderable area.
Once you have spent 1 to 4 hours repairing the damage caused by that usesless, stupidly chosen Elna cap, the player will work flawlessly 99% of the time(unless you missed a bad through-hole or two). The other one percent is either a)the platter has slipped down the motor shaft slightly, easily popped back up into range, or b)the ribbon cable connecting the laser to the servo board needs to be unplugged & replugged at each end to clear minor oxidation. Pretty much nothing else ever goes wrong with these units.
In order to maintain syscon memory in case of power outage, so that you don't waste a $0.90 cd-r if power goes out in the midst of recording, Pioneer chose the WORST POSSIBLE memory backup capacitor- a vertical mount Elna gold cap, usually 0.1F/5.5V. This horrible little cap likes to LEAK corrosive electrolyte, which creeps around the top AND bottom sides of the circuit board, and can cause random corrosion in about a 3 inch radius around the cap. FIRST STEP: Remove the cap & DON'T replace it. Leave the spot blank. It's a useless part for a useless function that NOBODY will ever miss. SECOND STEP: Very carefully examine traces for sub-enamel corrosion(trace will be darker), scrape away the enamel & corrosion to expose shiny copper, then either solder over it and/or apply an electrical insulating enamel/sealant. THIRD & HARDEST STEP: The corrosive electrolyte LOVES to attack the metallised(vapor deposition) through-holes that pass current from bottom to top of board & vice-versa. Using MAGNIFICATION, carefully examine all through-holes on main board that are within 4 inches of the removed cap, and repair ANY that are at all showing discoloration pitting under the enamel. To repair these, you have to poke through each one with a very sharp, thin, needle-like implement, then run a wire(a strand of a stranded wire, usually, to be thin enough) and solder to each top & bottom circuit trace joined by the hole, by scraping enough enamel off of each trace to provide solderable area.
Once you have spent 1 to 4 hours repairing the damage caused by that usesless, stupidly chosen Elna cap, the player will work flawlessly 99% of the time(unless you missed a bad through-hole or two). The other one percent is either a)the platter has slipped down the motor shaft slightly, easily popped back up into range, or b)the ribbon cable connecting the laser to the servo board needs to be unplugged & replugged at each end to clear minor oxidation. Pretty much nothing else ever goes wrong with these units.
The front-pane fix was not it after all - for mine
Hi folks,
I posted that the front-panel capacitor fix helped my PDR-555RW also. It did--but only for a little while. Now, it again won't recognize any media, and after reading stephensank's great posting above, I'm sure it's because of the corrosion problem. On mine, it looks like it may have affected a couple of the leads from the microprocessor chip, and it's more than I think I can fix myself. (And did you know that a few of the through-holes come out underneath the bigger chips??)
I'm getting a PDR-509 instead. I checked and it uses a different type of battery-backup capacitor.
Stephensank, I also wasn't aware there were pro versions of these units. Must be a real bummer to have one of those with the leaking capacitor
Hi folks,
I posted that the front-panel capacitor fix helped my PDR-555RW also. It did--but only for a little while. Now, it again won't recognize any media, and after reading stephensank's great posting above, I'm sure it's because of the corrosion problem. On mine, it looks like it may have affected a couple of the leads from the microprocessor chip, and it's more than I think I can fix myself. (And did you know that a few of the through-holes come out underneath the bigger chips??)
I'm getting a PDR-509 instead. I checked and it uses a different type of battery-backup capacitor.
Stephensank, I also wasn't aware there were pro versions of these units. Must be a real bummer to have one of those with the leaking capacitor
Unfortunately, although the PDR509/609 eliminate the faulty & useless Elna memory cap, these successor models are ONLY useful for direct-digital input/output, since a)the audio circuits & a/d & d/a conversion are crap by comparison, and b)both use a switchmode power supply, a source of HF noise & potential failures. So, I'd only recommend if you use it only for direct digital-to-digital recording, sadly. I'd much more strongly recommend you look for a PDR-05, 04 or 99. These all use the PD65 stable platter mech, but with a much more robust laser(whose lens almost never falls out like the PD65 & other Pioneer players were prone to) &, of course, recording ability(cd-r only, but who cares about cd-rw?). Although these do have an Elna memory cap, it is smaller & less corrosive, so removing it(you can just chop it's leads from top side of pcb) is usually all it takes to make for a really reliable recorder, and, of course, a SUPERB playback transport. The audio & ad-da electronics are also hugely better than the PDR-509/609, and even uses seperate power transformers for control/servo & audio/ad-da sections. Also can be had as Fostex CR200 & HHB CDR800, which remove the limitation of needing 'audio' cd-r blanks, since they are pro versions. If you shop for a currently working well unit, you can pretty near 100% count on simply needing to clip out the memory cap.
A correction to my posting above: The corrosion in the PDR-555RW is around the ATIP decoder chip (not the microprocessor), and in fact the error code indicates it can't read the ATIP. I haven't been able to fix it yet. I can still use it as an A-to-D or D-to-A converter though.
Stephen, it looks like the PDR-509 and -609 are not the same. The 509 has a traditional power supply (and the heat sinks on the 5 volt regulator chips look a lot more robust than on the 555RW). The 609, according to the service manual, does have the switched mode power supply. The ADC and DAC chips aren't the same either - here's a list -
555RW, V500, 19RW: ADC AK5340-VS / DAC PE8001A; the 19RW also has a PD0236AD - "Hi-Bit IC"
509: ADC PCM1800-1 / DAC PCM1716E
609: ADC/DAC: AK4524VF
(Curiously, it appears that at least some European versions of the 509 and 609 use a PE8001A DAC.)
I do find CD-RW's useful (and my analog recording is mostly going to be from cassette tapes, at least at this point), so I don't want to go with the PDR-04/05.
P.S. The HHB CDR-830 is a PDR-609?
Stephen, it looks like the PDR-509 and -609 are not the same. The 509 has a traditional power supply (and the heat sinks on the 5 volt regulator chips look a lot more robust than on the 555RW). The 609, according to the service manual, does have the switched mode power supply. The ADC and DAC chips aren't the same either - here's a list -
555RW, V500, 19RW: ADC AK5340-VS / DAC PE8001A; the 19RW also has a PD0236AD - "Hi-Bit IC"
509: ADC PCM1800-1 / DAC PCM1716E
609: ADC/DAC: AK4524VF
(Curiously, it appears that at least some European versions of the 509 and 609 use a PE8001A DAC.)
I do find CD-RW's useful (and my analog recording is mostly going to be from cassette tapes, at least at this point), so I don't want to go with the PDR-04/05.
P.S. The HHB CDR-830 is a PDR-609?
Now that I think about it, I have not actually worked on any PDR-509, and simply assumed, since the thing was such a piece of crap(relative to the 555, etc.) that the HHB CDR830's I've worked on were 509's. So, apparently, the 609(aka CDR830) is the piece of crap, and the 509 may actually be quite decent(unless it actually uses the same Elna memory cap, which I now don't know that it doesn't). Rather strange.
I've been quite lucky with the many 555/19RW/V500 main boards I've rescued from Elna cap damage, in that I've yet to have any of the corroded through-holes be buried under a chip.
I've been quite lucky with the many 555/19RW/V500 main boards I've rescued from Elna cap damage, in that I've yet to have any of the corroded through-holes be buried under a chip.
A tale of 4 PDR's...
Hi all,
I thought I'd come back and update folks on my results with these units.
First, I picked up some tools Stephen recommended, a fiberglass pencil (for cleaning the traces) and an acrylic-based CircuitSealer pen (for protecting them), from MCM Electronics.
I then went back to my original PDR-555RW, cleaned all the visible corrosion on the traces, checked continuity and repaired a couple of breaks, and tried it again. NADA. It still does not recognize any media, though I can see that it moves the laser up and down and it recognizes when there is no media present. I still think the problem is in the ATIP decoder, but I'm at a loss to fix it. I haven't done an exhaustive voltage check, but the spot checks I've done don't show any obvious problems.
I got another PDR-555RW (cheap). This time I knew to test it before I bought it, and it worked. The Elna cap had leaked, so I cleaned up the traces and coated them, also replacing the Elna supercap with a Panasonic of the same value (I also spotted one of these - the Panasonic - in a Sun Fire server - so I hope they are more reliable!). I had to increase the PB.PWR adjustment by about 1/32nd turn to get reliable burns on current CD-R media, but otherwise it worked fine. Curiously, the main board on this one has an added resistor on the backside, apparently connecting a couple of electrolytic capacitors by the CDR servo amp IC (IC247), and is missing jumper J203 on the front side. It's got a Pioneer Refurbished sticker on the case. This one I sold to a co-worker who's going to use it to digitize some LP's.
I got a third PDR-555RW (cheap). This one also works, and the Elna cap had not yet leaked. I replaced it with a Panasonic anyway. I'm keeping this one myself.
One note - the volume assembly on the front panel (top right) was very loose on a couple of these units. It's fastened from the front, and you just have to pull off the knobs to get to the nut.
I also have the PDR-509. I was able to make an audible improvement to the sound by replacing two op amp's. It had NJR4558's and I replaced them with 4565's, the same as the 555RW (and 609) use and with much better slew and bandwidth characteristics. I find the digital input level adjustment on the 509 useful, and it's also got a brighter display and a better remote, and it does have the conventional power supply.
One thing I've noted is that the CD-R's from all of these units don't test so well for errors. (No unrecoverable errors, but the general error rate is moderately high, and it doesn't appear to depend on the media.) You may want to duplicate anything important. Stephen, do you know if the "stable platter" models are any better in this regard?
And finally, I feel sorry for folks buying the PDR-19RW's lately at very high prices. The service manual says it has the exact same main board (the servo digital assembly), so presumably it has the exact same Elna supercap :-( , And aside from cosmetics, it's essentially a 555RW with a "Hi-Bit" IC added in the DAC, and the rest of the audio path is the same...
Hi all,
I thought I'd come back and update folks on my results with these units.
First, I picked up some tools Stephen recommended, a fiberglass pencil (for cleaning the traces) and an acrylic-based CircuitSealer pen (for protecting them), from MCM Electronics.
I then went back to my original PDR-555RW, cleaned all the visible corrosion on the traces, checked continuity and repaired a couple of breaks, and tried it again. NADA. It still does not recognize any media, though I can see that it moves the laser up and down and it recognizes when there is no media present. I still think the problem is in the ATIP decoder, but I'm at a loss to fix it. I haven't done an exhaustive voltage check, but the spot checks I've done don't show any obvious problems.
I got another PDR-555RW (cheap). This time I knew to test it before I bought it, and it worked. The Elna cap had leaked, so I cleaned up the traces and coated them, also replacing the Elna supercap with a Panasonic of the same value (I also spotted one of these - the Panasonic - in a Sun Fire server - so I hope they are more reliable!). I had to increase the PB.PWR adjustment by about 1/32nd turn to get reliable burns on current CD-R media, but otherwise it worked fine. Curiously, the main board on this one has an added resistor on the backside, apparently connecting a couple of electrolytic capacitors by the CDR servo amp IC (IC247), and is missing jumper J203 on the front side. It's got a Pioneer Refurbished sticker on the case. This one I sold to a co-worker who's going to use it to digitize some LP's.
I got a third PDR-555RW (cheap). This one also works, and the Elna cap had not yet leaked. I replaced it with a Panasonic anyway. I'm keeping this one myself.
One note - the volume assembly on the front panel (top right) was very loose on a couple of these units. It's fastened from the front, and you just have to pull off the knobs to get to the nut.
I also have the PDR-509. I was able to make an audible improvement to the sound by replacing two op amp's. It had NJR4558's and I replaced them with 4565's, the same as the 555RW (and 609) use and with much better slew and bandwidth characteristics. I find the digital input level adjustment on the 509 useful, and it's also got a brighter display and a better remote, and it does have the conventional power supply.
One thing I've noted is that the CD-R's from all of these units don't test so well for errors. (No unrecoverable errors, but the general error rate is moderately high, and it doesn't appear to depend on the media.) You may want to duplicate anything important. Stephen, do you know if the "stable platter" models are any better in this regard?
And finally, I feel sorry for folks buying the PDR-19RW's lately at very high prices. The service manual says it has the exact same main board (the servo digital assembly), so presumably it has the exact same Elna supercap :-( , And aside from cosmetics, it's essentially a 555RW with a "Hi-Bit" IC added in the DAC, and the rest of the audio path is the same...