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Old 19th October 2012, 02:03 AM   #91
cheryl is offline cheryl  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColinD View Post
Hello afecu, Thanks so much for your update, and pleased to know Cheryl is up and running again. One thing about these machines I never asked to have confirmed was the very hot running of the RF Amp chip, IC103. I was initially concerned about this but later came to conclusion it was normal in a properly working machine, as it cools again very quickly. It is really the only hot-to-the-touch chip in the whole machine. Any comment / confirmation please, from anyone.
I'm just a day late and a dollar short, but am happy to report that the laser I got from afecu works great. I installed it and set the pots on my mainboard to match the lovely picture that afecu took of the mainboard in the donor machine. I'm fairly certain that it is the volcanic sulfur in the air that ate the laser assembly.

Hey Stephen, are you still out there? Some folks on the NakTalk (Nakamichi enthusiasts) are wondering if you are still out there and if you still repair/refurbish Nak cassette decks.
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Old 19th October 2012, 05:36 PM   #92
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Yes, still here. I stopped participating in the naktalk forum due to it causing me to get too darn inundated with work. But I do still service Nak decks, all the time, and it's not as if I'm hard to find(can it get easier than stephensank.com?), so puzzles me that Naktalk people would not know I still exist.
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Old 19th October 2012, 06:27 PM   #93
cheryl is offline cheryl  United States
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Thanks for the reply Stephen. I posted your link on Naktalk for those who may be interested.
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Old 21st December 2012, 03:34 AM   #94
CAT6a is offline CAT6a  United States
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Thanks to this thread, I saved one of these units that I had just bought at a thrift store. Briefly testing in the store, it seemed to play a CD. Got it home, of course it didn't.

My unit would not open/close the tray properly and it would display CHECK DISC (as others here describe).

If I hadn't read through this thread, I would have wasted my money! I'd like to share some pictures from my repair process to possibly help others visualize the process described by Stephen in post #14:

First I identified and pulled the faulty capacitor. At first glance it seemed fine, but then I saw the slight bulge and leakage!
Click the image to open in full size.

I flipped the board and examined the damage caused by the leakage. Parts of the track turned dark and I gently scraped at them with an Xacto knife. I had to expose copper around the through holes for the third step.
Click the image to open in full size.

I used a pin to poke at the holes then pushed single strands of wire through them (but don't try to put that many in at once... it's a soldering nightmare):
Click the image to open in full size.

The near-finished soldering above where the removed cap rested. The strands of wire needed snipped after soldering, and I tried to scrape up the excess flux:
Click the image to open in full size.

This pic puts the "micro surgery" into perspective. Wow it is small, but it is very possible. Make sure nothing shorts out!
Click the image to open in full size.

And... it works!
Click the image to open in full size.

Ok, well it didn't work on the first try. I had to take it apart again, clean up my tracks, re-heat some solder. Once more I had to take it apart, because it then repeatedly would flash CHECK DISC (but the tray now functioned properly). It turned out that the jumper between the main board and adjacent board was not inserted properly.

This wide jumper with fine pins must be re-inserted very carefully, or the pins will bend and short.

I never had to do anything else to repair it (namely, I did not have to touch the front panel board for cleaning).

Thanks everybody for making such great posts in this thread. I want to give back by helping others with my post. Best of luck with this rewarding repair!
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Old 22nd January 2013, 11:21 AM   #95
80sguy is offline 80sguy  United States
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^^
Great work! Where can I find these capacitors?
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Old 23rd January 2013, 01:24 AM   #96
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DO NOT replace the killer capacitor, i.e., the Elna memory backup cap. It serves no useful purpose, except to be a time bomb. You will experience absolutely no difference in the unit's performance, feautures or etc. with no cap in that spot.
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Old 23rd January 2013, 01:35 AM   #97
80sguy is offline 80sguy  United States
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I took it apart today and removed the board for inspection but couldn't find much leaks nor residue on both sides. I did scrape some off but I doubt those were caused by leakages. The Elna cap didn't look too bad but I still went ahead and thoroughly cleaned the surrounding area with 70% isopropyl alcohol and MG Chemicals Contact Cleaner. Put the thing back together and still no go. The tray kept on cycling back in and it takes multiple pushes for me to remove a disc -- frustrating! Would it make a difference if I remove the cap? Should I dab some solder over the removal area? I wasn't sure what CAT6a was doing with those wires and solder since he didn't provide any post-soldered pics.
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Old 23rd January 2013, 05:01 PM   #98
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Please review my other posts in this thread. The Elna damage isn't easily seen until you get the hang of the sort of discolorations you're looking for. Your symptoms are totally typical of damage to the through-hole connections from the Elna timebomb. And that cap should absolutely be removed.
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Old 24th January 2013, 11:42 AM   #99
80sguy is offline 80sguy  United States
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De-soldered the Elna Cap; removed and re-soldered the holes but didn't work, same state. I'm using the deck as an A/D-D/A converter unit. Not too long ago (a few months) it was able to at least read/play CD-R discs, but now nothing except 'Check Disc'! Sad, because the unit is in mint condition. I'm sure the culprit inside that's causing this malfunction is worth no more than 0.85 .
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Old 24th January 2013, 04:50 PM   #100
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As I've written here before, if you still have troubles, you just haven't found all of the damaged through-holes and traces.
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