Marantz CD63 Basic upgrade overview / guide

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Wow, I'm obviously totally out of the op-amp loop! As soon as I read that it all came back to me from all those years ago ;)

I need to get back to my CD-63SE someday, last thing that happened was the building of some LM317/LM337 based regulator circuits to replace some of the stock 7805/7905 (?) and the next thing you know the CD player started to sound hissy as hell... I really should just put the 78xx/79xx regs back in!
 
Hi Brent, would you mind confirming the correct connections for the display transformer secondaries? This is what I have, but it doesn't work.

+---- 12v -> 16.4ohm -> u267
|
|
+---- 0v -> u309

+---- 12v -> u311
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|
+---- 0v -> u312

If this is correct then it may just be a broken trace somewhere. That section of the PCB is getting pretty flakey.

Thanks,

Ben
 
Hi Ben

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


You have got that wrong ;)

Right lets see.... The 1st 12V winding with the resistor connects to U311 and U312. This is for the display heaters. After the resistor you should have approx 3.6V dc. If this dc is a little high you may have to raise the res value to drop it a little. There is a bit of leeway with this voltage . I also use a high watt resistor as it can get warm.

The second 12V winding connects U305 (or U267) and U309 (gnd)

Brent
 
I am going to replace the standard clock arrangement in my CD63 KI and I have got a Tentlabs XO and options of two different low noise 5 volt supplies.

I would like some photos of precisely where to solder the output of the XO and generally any help with the aid of photos of which components to remove and discard. I know about the two capacitors and one resistor removal but things would be a lot more comfortable if I could see a photo of what is needed.
 
I replaced the stock NE5532s with LME4920HA and it seemed to work fine, then after a minute I thought to myself wow I prefer the 5532s! then another minute later the player ceased to track, I opened up the lid and the 4920s were warm to the touch, obviously drawing lots of juice although I don't know why. After changing back to the 5532s I'm really hesitant to stuff around again. Maybe the 4920s would benefit from their own dedicated supply, this was possibly mentioned in the upgrade info....
 
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