If you google on coax 0,81mm you find some providers... I bought it from China... Very good for this task.
Else there is Farnell, and for sure some other providers right in France...
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I remember now that I've published earlier in the thread the link to a provider. I've contacted that provider and ask for a price for minimum order.
This link it may be in the last part of this thread. Right now I have not access to a computer, and I have to use my phone. Is a little more difficult to navigate using the phone, for find my self that link for you...
I do hope you can find it and deal with that provider...
This link it may be in the last part of this thread. Right now I have not access to a computer, and I have to use my phone. Is a little more difficult to navigate using the phone, for find my self that link for you...
I do hope you can find it and deal with that provider...
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But you can ask for a sample... I bought from them, and they did not asked me to buy for 2000$...
I do hope you will find a way...
A few new!
Johann told me his oppo NuForce with the aim of installing the card OCXO (Jaehong) and enhanced power supply, transformer toridoale even bigger!
it took me 3 weeks to develop with few mishaps. say that I had the galleys ...
some elements in fidelity was not compatible with the tweek and nobody else to my knowledge has not installed
but here for tonight and it works pretty well, so 3 clocks 20.25 MHz and 27 were replaced and I wanted to know.
I recently compared the opposition of totof with big change and my oppo with the radiance of tweeké totof
for this test, I had to change my idea of opposition and may be purchased mini radiance 3D
Now I have that header "OCXO," an exceptional image. frankly I'm impressed.
better dynamic image, and exceptionally smooth, the transition from early smurfs do not jerk. and the king kong movie could have the feeling of being in the film. I know this is not good news as it may make me spend money ..
until the break is already very beautiful
Johann told me his oppo NuForce with the aim of installing the card OCXO (Jaehong) and enhanced power supply, transformer toridoale even bigger!
it took me 3 weeks to develop with few mishaps. say that I had the galleys ...
some elements in fidelity was not compatible with the tweek and nobody else to my knowledge has not installed
but here for tonight and it works pretty well, so 3 clocks 20.25 MHz and 27 were replaced and I wanted to know.
I recently compared the opposition of totof with big change and my oppo with the radiance of tweeké totof
for this test, I had to change my idea of opposition and may be purchased mini radiance 3D
Now I have that header "OCXO," an exceptional image. frankly I'm impressed.
better dynamic image, and exceptionally smooth, the transition from early smurfs do not jerk. and the king kong movie could have the feeling of being in the film. I know this is not good news as it may make me spend money ..
until the break is already very beautiful
Hi. First post here but I have been lurking for some time trying to learn. I have an Oppo 93 which I am about to replace the power supply with one of Jae Hong Lee's LPSU (or I may purchase the 103 and do the same). I have already disconnected the power to the analogue board as I have no interest in using the Oppo DACs (instead I prefer the DACs in my Theta Casablanca IIIHD) and may now remove it entirely. Venturing into the clocks would require outside assistance (e.g. Jae Hong's OCXO board) as I have next to no electronics expertise but I am learning.
I read here that one good upgrade to the Oppo is to disconnect the Toslink connection. Is this readily done or is it complex?
BTW Theta have released their new player based on the Oppo 95. Essentially it is the Oppo 95 optical drive and main digital board in a heavy chassis with a linear power supply - no analogue components. I very much like the direction of this (or, even better, units such as the Bryston BDP-1 or 2) but it doesn't look like they've upgraded the clocks or anything else.
I read here that one good upgrade to the Oppo is to disconnect the Toslink connection. Is this readily done or is it complex?
BTW Theta have released their new player based on the Oppo 95. Essentially it is the Oppo 95 optical drive and main digital board in a heavy chassis with a linear power supply - no analogue components. I very much like the direction of this (or, even better, units such as the Bryston BDP-1 or 2) but it doesn't look like they've upgraded the clocks or anything else.
The player grounding must not be removed. The grounding through the power cord it protect the user and the whole chain which is to be connected to the player.
Even more, this grounding assure a noise filtering which result in the switching PSU functioning in the player. Dangerous (for the player electronics) spikes can occur which it may propagate through system, if the grounding is removed or not connected to the ground (through the wall power contact). Static electric discharges may occur too, when the user touch the device, and this may damage the sensitive components inside the player
I know there are some "advices" on some forums from people who have not any clue about electronics and physics, that removing the player grounding it will improve the sound. THIS IS JUST STUPID!
The improving in player sound it come from completely different places/mods in the player system. The power cord grounding and the connection to the player have to be intact and functional. One should care to connect the player in to an grounded contact in the wall.
X7 is the clock oscillator for the QDEO processor.
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Almost all inexpensive gear comes with ungrounded power cords (two prong power cords)....even the Oppo 83 and 83SE had no internal ground connection (third pin not hooked up). Please show evidence that any Oppo or any other player "broke" because of this. However, grounding the equipment is a nice "protection". I use no grounded cords. I do ground the system at one point and since all the chassis and signal grounds are tied together I do have a single "true ground". There is lots of evidence (subjective, natch) that in certain systems having no "true ground at all" gives the better sound. Everyone has their own "belief system". I try to keep mine to observed (listened to) facts.
In some countries this is a hoary problem legally. But I agree generally with you.
Probably the best place, technically, is to ground where the input to the power amp is. But not necessarily a practical solution. Or ground the power amplifier IEC - and then let the rest of system get it from there. But often it is the preamp that gets grounded - as it is the central point of most systems.