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Old 24th June 2013, 06:00 PM   #361
Coris is offline Coris  Norway
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You may know that is not only the increasing of capacity of the filtering caps important when is to improve filtering of a switching PSU. The caps it may have very low ESI/ESR, paralleled with very good low capacity (film/ceramics) capas, short or not at all terminals (SMD types), and some other precautions to minimise the HF noises out of that PSU. I will recommend to use many smaller capacities caps (right working tension) paralleled to get the desired capacity on the output of that PSU. If you parallel f. ex. 5 - 10 caps to get a 1000F on output, it will be more effective filtering than using one 1000F cap... And it could be enough only that 1000F... There is not necessary to replace the original caps, but only add some more...
There is not a benefit for that type PSU to have very big capacities on its outputs. This it may increase quite much the start up currents, and may block or even damage the PSU. A rational balance in this area is recommended.
If you own a 93 model, then you may pay attention to the +/- 15v too. I will recommend to try to find an analogue solution to deliver these tensions, which it will be used in analogue stages/opamps of the player. There is not about important currents here, so a such analogue PSU for +/-15v it may be quite small. In such case you need a transformer, with synchronized start up with the rest of the player...

Last edited by Coris; 24th June 2013 at 06:11 PM.
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Old 25th June 2013, 12:35 PM   #362
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Thanks Coris
I couldn't find any 1000uf oscons anyways but have found some 10v 470 uf oscons which I will double up.Hopefully that will be enough to make a difference but not enough to start causing the psu start up troubles
Smiffy
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Old 29th June 2013, 06:56 PM   #363
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Your right Coris
2 X 470uf oscons has removed some noise from the pic
so 2 X 470uf on +5v digital=940uf.10v oscons
and 1000uf panasonic on the way for the +-15v for analogue(op amps)
can I use a relay to turn on a analogue supply for the audio board?
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Old 29th June 2013, 10:16 PM   #364
Coris is offline Coris  Norway
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Yes, you can!

I think you have already a relay into the switching PSU of the player. So, if you will connect your (toroid) transformer primary just after that relay, which it connect 220v AC to the PSU, than you have done it.
If one use a quite powerful toroid transformer, than the clue is to have it connected all the time to the main, and place a relay to connect (on device power on) its AC secondary to the rectifiers/regulators. In this way one may prevent the start-up important current spikes of a toroid... A fuse it may be placed in primary (but you have such already in that PSU...).
You can use quite large capacities for the analogue stage. Here is not any problem if the caps take large currents on start up. The transformer will limit that current anyway. You can use few tens thousands F just/only after the rectifier bridges (before regulators). I have 33000F on -/+15v. It is a matter of place this... The same rule: many paralleled caps is better, than one big.

Last edited by Coris; 29th June 2013 at 10:26 PM.
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Old 6th September 2013, 05:11 PM   #365
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An Earth Question
Is it ok to add an Earth connection to audio parts that have no earth connection?
I had crackles on the sound from a HD Dvd player.I ran the ground part of the hdmi cable across the chassis of my Denon 3808(No earth cable).
There were sparks.I measured the voltage between the hdmi ground and the Denon chassis and it came up 110v AC.
But no sparks or voltage from the hdmi from the BDP93.I will check the freesat box later.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Smiffy
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Old 6th September 2013, 10:19 PM   #366
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smiffy View Post
An Earth Question
Is it ok to add an Earth connection to audio parts that have no earth connection?
If you are measuring 110V AC - sounds scary.

Generally speaking, If part of an audio system is not 'mains' grounded, it often gets grounded any by the cables that connects the system together, by the interconnects etc. There are not too many exceptions. I have often seen grounds removed or isolated so as not to ground it directly to mains earth, to sort out hum loops. This especially when using phono/turntables, but can also happen when only line stage signals are involved.

From my way of understanding, disconnecting a ground is a legal question too, or a grey area, yet many do it. But adding a ground, at least that should be legal, as it means you are at least touching metal/chassis that is grounded and that can surely be considered 'safe'. Must be a 'mains' ground.

Anyone else have an opinion on this, I would be interested.

Cheers, Joe

PS: I have seen small sparks connecting HDMI cables. Not sure why.
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Last edited by Joe Rasmussen; 6th September 2013 at 10:24 PM.
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Old 7th September 2013, 02:32 AM   #367
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WRT grounding I recommend Rod Elliot's very informative web page

Earthing (Grounding) Your Hi-Fi - Tricks and Techniques

There is absolutely *NO* reason not to have safety ground capacity on
a device even whilst avoiding earth loops. Refer to diag with 35A bridge rectifier.
The rectifier connected as such will have a peak fault current capacity of many
hundreds of amps, yet still leave the device floating.

The standards these days are pretty tough WRT earth connection lugs. Last full
time design job I had we were using copper plated / welded studs to chassis.
Back in diy land, what Rod has shown is a very effective and practical
solution.


cheers

T
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Old 8th September 2013, 06:12 PM   #368
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Thanks for the help Joe and Zenelecto.An good artice from Rod Elliot.
I measured the freesat box.99 volts ac.I remember years ago I had a JVC S video recorder.
I use to get shocks when I touched the JVC chassis and the radiator together,I measured it and it was 134v ac.Yikes.
In terms of earth would the radiator pipe be ok or would a 4 ft copper pipe driven into the earth outside be better?
Ta for any help.I think i'll make a star earth unit.
Smiffy
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Old 26th November 2013, 05:48 AM   #369
jbxsamy is offline jbxsamy  France
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Hello,

I have to connect two card in my 93.
A CBC Lab 3D map I2S to exit EBU (XLR) and the other a USB card (native DSD).
For I2S is good but for the USB I need you.
On the analog board, there are specific to different signals.
I need: DSD Flag (DSD-1 PCM-0); MCLK, PCM & DSD BCLK; PCM LRCLK/DSD SDATA 1 and PCM SDATA/DSD SDATA2.
The names used by OPPO are different.
If someone can help me?
In advance thank you, Johann.

Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by jbxsamy; 26th November 2013 at 06:11 AM.
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Old 27th November 2013, 01:50 AM   #370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smiffy View Post
Thanks for the help Joe and Zenelecto.An good artice from Rod Elliot.
I measured the freesat box.99 volts ac.I remember years ago I had a JVC S video recorder.
I use to get shocks when I touched the JVC chassis and the radiator together,I measured it and it was 134v ac.Yikes.
In terms of earth would the radiator pipe be ok or would a 4 ft copper pipe driven into the earth outside be better?
Ta for any help.I think i'll make a star earth unit.
Smiffy
My suggestion is to get a licensed electrician to check the ground consistency in your house from each individual AC outlet back to the main switchboard. Also, make sure the ground is connected to the neutral properly.

You can also do few checks while waiting for the electrical checks to be finilised:
- Interconnects shield consistency
- Check grounding inside the equipment
- Check if the PCB ground (inside an individual unit / component) is AC or DC coupled to the chassis.

Nick
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