Dab 10 Circuit diagram / Service Manual

daycartes · 28th May 2011, 08:11 AM

Hi,
I have been searching for the service manual for an Arcam Alphs DAB 10. One of the electrolytics is dicky - breaks down when hot. I can find the service manuals for most amps in the arcam site, but no dab related service manuals. I need to find the spec for said capacitor. I have emailed Arcam and am waiting for a reply but it is the weekend and I would like to get it sorted before the weekend is out. I would be very grateful for a pointer in the right direction.
thanks,
daycartes

pinkmouse · 28th May 2011, 08:58 AM

Pics? Most caps have their specs printed on them.

daycartes · 28th May 2011, 09:58 AM

Thanks for a very quick response Pinkmouse.
I have taken a photo, hopefully it will upload. The cap in questions is one of the 2 large brown ones to the right of the siemens white relay, it is a silmic electroytic 100 micro f 25 volts. I want to be reasonably sure that i buy / order the correct ones.
Do you know where I can get these from?
It would be great if I could get these from Maplin as there is 1 locally, I have found a place in the netherlands but there are no pictures of them.
BTW, why are the small blue caps measured in 390pJ is this pico joules? is 63 6.3 volts?
Thanks again
daycartes

jacco vermeulen · 28th May 2011, 10:26 AM

390pF, the J is for the accuracy.
63V.

Both lytics look bulgy on the top, Elna RFS (silmic-2) are easy to buy online.

Mooly · 28th May 2011, 10:50 AM

Well I would say the originals either aren't so good or they are being run outside their spec to fail like this...

With Maplin its a case of what the store has in stock... and you can check store stock online.
Something like Maplins DT62S would be a first choice followed by VH38R

Mooly · 28th May 2011, 10:58 AM

Also... are you sure these are the fault. Photos are not always easy to see detail on, but they don't look bulged at the top vent to me (sorry jacco

)

Two caps... identical values and also the other poly caps around about... is this an output muting relay we are seeing or PSU standby/on/off etc ?
Stereo L and R channels maybe.

pinkmouse · 28th May 2011, 11:36 AM

Interesting. If running warm, then it wouldn't hurt to replace them, but the fact they are running warm suggests that something may be awry elsewhere in the circuit. By all means replace them, but be aware that it may not solve the problem. What symptoms are you seeing? Does the unit still work even though the caps are hot?

daycartes · 29th May 2011, 06:51 AM

I'm very grateful for all your replies.
I can't be certain that these are the faults because I have no cct diagram and no test eqp, however, and this is the first time I have ever used it, I sprayed freezer spray on it - you can see the few drops of moisture still remaining on it. The fault cured, so it would suggest that the capacitor/ electrolyte is breaking down under heat/load. At a cost of a few pence it would seem OK to change them both, however I will wait to see if I get a response from Arcam. I would like to replace them with original type ELNA as they are audio grade components and this was a mighty expensive thing to buy (haapence of tar and all that) but I will wait until I have a bigger order to buy from them.
Yes, the unit still works when they are hot I just get a low frequency noise. You may think of something else if you listen to the attached file.
I'll keep you posted. Thanks again.

Mooly · 29th May 2011, 09:09 AM

Can't play AMR ? files

A .wmp or MP3 would be more universal probably.

With freezer try and drip the freezer a blob at a time on suspect parts rather than just blast a component... it takes practice but can be done. Chilling a whole area can be misleading and it may even be a physical PCB problem that the freezer is affecting.

jacco vermeulen · 29th May 2011, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mooly

Two caps... identical values and also the other poly caps around about... is this an output muting relay we are seeing or PSU standby/on/off etc ?
Stereo L and R channels maybe.

Looks like it, the Siemens V23105 is a dual contact relay and the lytic/foil cap values also suggest it's the section behind the L+R mute switch.

(sorry? sorry ? how dare you insinuate i'm cross-eyed, while i'm still in recovery mode from a multi-K spenditure on eye-laser treatment)

28th May 2011, 08:11 AM	#1
daycartes diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2011	Dab 10 Circuit diagram / Service Manual Hi, I have been searching for the service manual for an Arcam Alphs DAB 10. One of the electrolytics is dicky - breaks down when hot. I can find the service manuals for most amps in the arcam site, but no dab related service manuals. I need to find the spec for said capacitor. I have emailed Arcam and am waiting for a reply but it is the weekend and I would like to get it sorted before the weekend is out. I would be very grateful for a pointer in the right direction. thanks, daycartes

28th May 2011, 08:58 AM	#2
pinkmouse diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Chatham, England	Pics? Most caps have their specs printed on them. __________________ Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort

28th May 2011, 10:26 AM	#4
jacco vermeulen diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: At the sea front, just under Rotterdam	390pF, the J is for the accuracy. 63V. Both lytics look bulgy on the top, Elna RFS (silmic-2) are easy to buy online. __________________ Looks like Sponge Bob has killed another thread.

28th May 2011, 10:50 AM	#5
Mooly diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2007	Well I would say the originals either aren't so good or they are being run outside their spec to fail like this... With Maplin its a case of what the store has in stock... and you can check store stock online. Something like Maplins DT62S would be a first choice followed by VH38R __________________ ------------------------------------------------------- *A simulation free zone.* *Design it, build it, test it.*

28th May 2011, 10:58 AM	#6
Mooly diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2007	Also... are you sure these are the fault. Photos are not always easy to see detail on, but they don't look bulged at the top vent to me (sorry jacco ) Two caps... identical values and also the other poly caps around about... is this an output muting relay we are seeing or PSU standby/on/off etc ? Stereo L and R channels maybe. __________________ ------------------------------------------------------- *A simulation free zone.* *Design it, build it, test it.*


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28th May 2011, 11:36 AM	#7
pinkmouse diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Chatham, England	Interesting. If running warm, then it wouldn't hurt to replace them, but the fact they are running warm suggests that something may be awry elsewhere in the circuit. By all means replace them, but be aware that it may not solve the problem. What symptoms are you seeing? Does the unit still work even though the caps are hot? __________________ Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort

29th May 2011, 09:09 AM	#9
Mooly diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2007	Can't play AMR ? files A .wmp or MP3 would be more universal probably. With freezer try and drip the freezer a blob at a time on suspect parts rather than just blast a component... it takes practice but can be done. Chilling a whole area can be misleading and it may even be a physical PCB problem that the freezer is affecting. __________________ ------------------------------------------------------- *A simulation free zone.* *Design it, build it, test it.*

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