Hi,
I have been searching for the service manual for an Arcam Alphs DAB 10. One of the electrolytics is dicky - breaks down when hot. I can find the service manuals for most amps in the arcam site, but no dab related service manuals. I need to find the spec for said capacitor. I have emailed Arcam and am waiting for a reply but it is the weekend and I would like to get it sorted before the weekend is out. I would be very grateful for a pointer in the right direction.
thanks,
daycartes
I have been searching for the service manual for an Arcam Alphs DAB 10. One of the electrolytics is dicky - breaks down when hot. I can find the service manuals for most amps in the arcam site, but no dab related service manuals. I need to find the spec for said capacitor. I have emailed Arcam and am waiting for a reply but it is the weekend and I would like to get it sorted before the weekend is out. I would be very grateful for a pointer in the right direction.
thanks,
daycartes
Thanks for a very quick response Pinkmouse.
I have taken a photo, hopefully it will upload. The cap in questions is one of the 2 large brown ones to the right of the siemens white relay, it is a silmic electroytic 100 micro f 25 volts. I want to be reasonably sure that i buy / order the correct ones.
Do you know where I can get these from?
It would be great if I could get these from Maplin as there is 1 locally, I have found a place in the netherlands but there are no pictures of them.
BTW, why are the small blue caps measured in 390pJ is this pico joules? is 63 6.3 volts?
Thanks again
daycartes
I have taken a photo, hopefully it will upload. The cap in questions is one of the 2 large brown ones to the right of the siemens white relay, it is a silmic electroytic 100 micro f 25 volts. I want to be reasonably sure that i buy / order the correct ones.
Do you know where I can get these from?
It would be great if I could get these from Maplin as there is 1 locally, I have found a place in the netherlands but there are no pictures of them.
BTW, why are the small blue caps measured in 390pJ is this pico joules? is 63 6.3 volts?
Thanks again
daycartes
Attachments
Also... are you sure these are the fault. Photos are not always easy to see detail on, but they don't look bulged at the top vent to me (sorry jacco 
)
Two caps... identical values and also the other poly caps around about... is this an output muting relay we are seeing or PSU standby/on/off etc ?
Stereo L and R channels maybe.
)Two caps... identical values and also the other poly caps around about... is this an output muting relay we are seeing or PSU standby/on/off etc ?
Stereo L and R channels maybe.
Interesting. If running warm, then it wouldn't hurt to replace them, but the fact they are running warm suggests that something may be awry elsewhere in the circuit. By all means replace them, but be aware that it may not solve the problem. What symptoms are you seeing? Does the unit still work even though the caps are hot?
I'm very grateful for all your replies.
I can't be certain that these are the faults because I have no cct diagram and no test eqp, however, and this is the first time I have ever used it, I sprayed freezer spray on it - you can see the few drops of moisture still remaining on it. The fault cured, so it would suggest that the capacitor/ electrolyte is breaking down under heat/load. At a cost of a few pence it would seem OK to change them both, however I will wait to see if I get a response from Arcam. I would like to replace them with original type ELNA as they are audio grade components and this was a mighty expensive thing to buy (haapence of tar and all that) but I will wait until I have a bigger order to buy from them.
Yes, the unit still works when they are hot I just get a low frequency noise. You may think of something else if you listen to the attached file.
I'll keep you posted. Thanks again.
I can't be certain that these are the faults because I have no cct diagram and no test eqp, however, and this is the first time I have ever used it, I sprayed freezer spray on it - you can see the few drops of moisture still remaining on it. The fault cured, so it would suggest that the capacitor/ electrolyte is breaking down under heat/load. At a cost of a few pence it would seem OK to change them both, however I will wait to see if I get a response from Arcam. I would like to replace them with original type ELNA as they are audio grade components and this was a mighty expensive thing to buy (haapence of tar and all that) but I will wait until I have a bigger order to buy from them.
Yes, the unit still works when they are hot I just get a low frequency noise. You may think of something else if you listen to the attached file.
I'll keep you posted. Thanks again.
Can't play AMR ? files A .wmp or MP3 would be more universal probably.
With freezer try and drip the freezer a blob at a time on suspect parts rather than just blast a component... it takes practice but can be done. Chilling a whole area can be misleading and it may even be a physical PCB problem that the freezer is affecting.
A .wmp or MP3 would be more universal probably.With freezer try and drip the freezer a blob at a time on suspect parts rather than just blast a component... it takes practice but can be done. Chilling a whole area can be misleading and it may even be a physical PCB problem that the freezer is affecting.
Looks like it, the Siemens V23105 is a dual contact relay and the lytic/foil cap values also suggest it's the section behind the L+R mute switch.
(sorry? sorry ? how dare you insinuate i'm cross-eyed, while i'm still in recovery mode from a multi-K spenditure on eye-laser treatment)
Not sure what I make of that tbh having had a listen.
If this problem responds to freezer in that general area then I think your next step has to be to carefully try and narrow down the area/component affected. In the picture there are a couple of regulators (one I can see says LM317... is the other an LM337). Try freezer on those one at a time.
These kind of devices do fail...
Its possible/likely that there are large signal processing IC's mounted under the PCB and its possible freezing the caps on the top of the board is actually affecting parts underneath.
If this problem responds to freezer in that general area then I think your next step has to be to carefully try and narrow down the area/component affected. In the picture there are a couple of regulators (one I can see says LM317... is the other an LM337). Try freezer on those one at a time.
These kind of devices do fail...
Its possible/likely that there are large signal processing IC's mounted under the PCB and its possible freezing the caps on the top of the board is actually affecting parts underneath.
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