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#941 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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you don't need a sophisticated charger. You can charge to 3,4 V for 80% capacity and don't need to drop the voltage for usage. At 3,4 V the batteries stays at room temperature and will last more than 1000 cycles.
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#942 |
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diyAudio Member
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I have ordered a buffalo III and plan to use it with my waveio. I am trying to figure out if I should use the isolated outputs or not. Since the jitter reduction of the es9018 is supposed to be very good would the best solution be to use the isolated outputs? I will then get the isolation from the USB connection and the extra jitter introduced by the isolator will be taken care of by the es9018?
What is your opinion? |
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#943 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Flanders
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Hello ENSen,
After listening to the BuffIII with WaveIO for several months now, there is in my opinion no perceptible difference in sound quality between micro-coax or NVE isolator output. BUT: this is only my opinion. I did not have measured it. Maybe other members could shine their light on this. |
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#944 |
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Contributor
diyAudio Member
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Hey ENsen,
You could also pick up a FIFO from iancanada on his GB II? They are running in sync mode to the Buff III using the MClk from the FIFO. It has a clock for each freq band and it's multiple. Ill be doing this once it arrives. Source is an Alix 2D2(mpdpup)> WaveIO> FIFO> B III> tube I/V. Will see how it goes. Just a thought! |
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#945 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Do you think that kind of battery will be OK for interface?:
Speed Power online store I think it should last for 10-15 hours of listening before recharging? There would be no problem with voltage drop during that time? I only tried gel acumulators 6v or 12V but its too much for XMOS interface and I would rather avoid any regulators. Can I buy that linked battery and be sure its enough for interface? Thank you. |
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#946 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
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Quote:
My preference with my B-II (and a different XMOS USB interface) is to use synchronous clocking, and a non isolated interface between USB receiver and DAC. Then I power my USB receiver board with two isolated supplies (one solely for the oscillators) and turn off the +5VDC power from the computer side. Try it, with a low jitter source, you really do not "need" the ESS' "jitter reduction", and that "jitter reduction" circuitry may be doing more harm than good. |
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#947 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Madrid - Capital of the Kingdom of Spain / Chamberí, newest state in Europe ;-)
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Dear Lucian,
I received my board today and have no words enough to thank you. The packaging is excellent, the board itself very well designed and crafted, and last but not least... super duper communication with you made all this experience a very enjoyable one. Do please sign me up for Revision II, I look forward to getting one of those whenever you have them built. cheers, Pepe |
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#948 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: London England
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barrows
"and turn off the +5VDC power from the computer side" Please could you tell me how you do that in Windows 7? Many thanks Jonathan |
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#949 | |||
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
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#950 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
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Quote:
I use a custom music server running Voyage/mpd built for me by Sonore. It has an onboard, audiophile, USB output card, and this card has a switch on the back panel which allows for the USB output voltage to be defeated. The easiest way to block the USB voltage on an ordinary PC would be to cover the power pin on the computer end USB plug with a small sliver of kapton tape. I have done this before as well, a little fiddley, but it can be done with a pair of tweezers and a steady hand. |
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