Marantz CD52mkII calibrate

[Enceladus]

Have had to open up my Marantz CD52 mkII. Drive would not close due to disintegrated pulley/gear. OK that can be fixed with a new gear for $20 ex Taiwan via eBay.

Whilst I had the cover off I thought I would look at another issue. The player will track and play good quality CD-R provided I can get it to start. Put in the CD-R and sometimes it reads the TOC and starts but mostly it does not. It requires half a dozen attempts at ejecting and re-positioning the CD in the tray before it works. The word "error" appears in red on the display for about 2 seconds. Sometimes it shows the total playing time and the number of tracks and sometimes just dashes as it would if there is no CD inserted.

When in this state I have discovered that if I try and play a track in the middle of the CD and can get it to start then I can subsequently play any track or all tracks including track 1. In other words, once the motor is spinning and the drive reads then it can read and seek to any track just fine. And stays fine until the motor stops.

So I am wondering if that means the laser is OK? Or what is the fault? Is there something I can adjust?

The CD-R that plays best are JVC made in Japan by Taiyo Yuden.
Verbatim sometimes work but are worse than the JVC.
Kodak are hopeless.
Thanks,

[poynton]

As this player uses the CDM-4, it is probably the usual fault - old, drying electrolytic caps.
In particular, in the servo section.
Theses are usually blue Philips caps. 33uF

It is easy to change them.
There are many threads on the forum.


Andy

.

[Enceladus]

Originally Posted by poynton

As this player uses the CDM-4, it is probably the usual fault - old, drying electrolytic caps.
In particular, in the servo section.
Theses are usually blue Philips caps. 33uF

It is easy to change them.
There are many threads on the forum.
Andy.

Thanks for the fast response. I have removed the circuit board. Under the CD drive I see two blue Philips axials at positions 2501 and 2502. The spec sheet I have suggests these are 8.2µF 63V ±1%.

Beside the Philips caps, position 2505, is a radial capacitor Nichicon 33µF 16V ±20%.

Do I need to replace just the Nichicon? Or all three? In which case do you know where I can get 1% axials?

There is also a Nichicon at position 2517 to the right of the 4K7 potentionmeter. This is 22µF 50V ±20%. Do I need to replace that as well?

This player plays pressed CDs most times at first attempt. (Provided there are no fingerprints near the start.) It is CD-R that is a problem.

All input and help appreciated.

Thanks,

[lduarte1973]

about CDR´s i only use memorex , they last long and have good quality

[amc184]

The CD52 Mk2 is a nice enough player, and well worth spending a bit of time and money on.

Don not replace capacitors 2501 or 2502. These are not electrolytic capacitors, they are film types, and they are 8.2nF, not 8.2uF. The particular one you should replace is 2517, this capacitor decouples the laser supply and is critical. In this player, which is a fair bit newer than the ones Andy was referring to, the capacitor is neither Philips made or 33uF, but the advice is good nonetheless.

You should also think about replacing every electrolytic capacitor in the whole player if you intend on keeping, as well as the wealth of other modifications that apply to this player.