DAC 2496 (AK4393) DAC KIT With CS8416+AK4393+5532

is this something?

hi everyone, some time ago i was looking for a simple low-volt low-impedance low-noise psu to this dac and i found this on some blog that dose not works anymore. i wonder if it is real? works? or ... any idea?
 

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I've seen this "capacitorless" power supply on DAC designed by a russian guy but i can't remember the name now. Worth a try and would be good if someone more knowleageable (like Andrew) would say something about this design.
You can try the shunt regulator used by Dario in his MyRef_FE.
 
hi everyone, some time ago i was looking for a simple low-volt low-impedance low-noise psu to this dac and i found this on some blog that dose not works anymore. i wonder if it is real? works? or ... any idea?

It was designed by diyaudio member Nazar_lv diyAudio - Creative High end audio

His website is here http://overture.org.ua/?cat=27

He is one of the best engineers on this forum. Of course it would work.
The explaination of the circuit is on the link above. Happy reading.
 
and i found
schem_tl431_boosted_shunt.gif

at TNT: "... where the 431 is used as a shunt-controlling amplifier driving an emitter follower. Output impedance can be much lower than with a solitary TL431. No noise measurements were done (yet), but I expect them not to be substantially different from the above ones...."

any comments? suitable to this dac?
 
hi everyone, some time ago i was looking for a simple low-volt low-impedance low-noise psu to this dac and i found this on some blog that dose not works anymore. i wonder if it is real? works? or ... any idea?


Strange :rolleyes: the LM1117 is a 3.3v for 3.3v output.......

I tried it ( +5v ) a few weeks ago for the AK4396 +5v Ana .
For me the SALAS Shunt reg is better .

It's my opinion :D
Serge
 
Hi Everyone,

I am actually in need of some help.... I just got one of these Gigawork Dacs with a PCM1794+DI9001+PCM2902E

Upsampling 24bit/192 DAC KIT,TOROID TRAN,USB, PCM1794+DIR9001 | eBay

My problem is with the Toroidal Transformer. I am pretty sure I have the wires going to the board right, but the AC IN wires I just want to make sure. They are 4 wires (2red, 2black). I twisted the 2 red wires together and 2 black wires together for 110V. Then basically I put them into a plug / socket that goes into the wall.

The closest I got was two 12V LEDS to come on the board, nothing else. No Sound or Anything... Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
Hi Everyone,

I am actually in need of some help.... I just got one of these Gigawork Dacs with a PCM1794+DI9001+PCM2902E

Upsampling 24bit/192 DAC KIT,TOROID TRAN,USB, PCM1794+DIR9001 | eBay

My problem is with the Toroidal Transformer. I am pretty sure I have the wires going to the board right, but the AC IN wires I just want to make sure. They are 4 wires (2red, 2black). I twisted the 2 red wires together and 2 black wires together for 110V. Then basically I put them into a plug / socket that goes into the wall.

The closest I got was two 12V LEDS to come on the board, nothing else. No Sound or Anything... Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Can you post a pic of your transformer Slider?

Here is the picture if anyone can help!

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
And what do you measure as secondary voltages? Also, what colors on the secondary winding do you have, and how much volts do they give (without load).

I have never really worked with power supply's / transformers, so I assume incoming is AC and to the secondary's (which are the 5 connections to the board) are also AC. I just measure the voltage by putting probe on 15V and 0V?

Thanks for everyone's help!!

-Ken
 
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Set your digital multimeter to AC, and set it to 50V or higher. Or AUTO if you have that setting.
Set the probes between the white and the black. You should read something around 15-20V. Repeat it for the other white one. Putting probes between the two white ones, should be double the measured voltage (approximate 34-40V).

If that is correct, then connect the black one to the MIDDLE connector (of the three screws on the PCB connector), The other white ones go the 15VAC connection (most right and most left). It does not matter which white one to which side.
The most important thing is to have the BLACK one in the middle.

The two BLUE wires go to the 9VAC connection on the board. Polarity does not matter.
 
Set your digital multimeter to AC, and set it to 50V or higher. Or AUTO if you have that setting.
Set the probes between the white and the black. You should read something around 15-20V. Repeat it for the other white one. Putting probes between the two white ones, should be double the measured voltage (approximate 34-40V).

If that is correct, then connect the black one to the MIDDLE connector (of the three screws on the PCB connector), The other white ones go the 15VAC connection (most right and most left). It does not matter which white one to which side.
The most important thing is to have the BLACK one in the middle.

The two BLUE wires go to the 9VAC connection on the board. Polarity does not matter.

Thanks so much for your help. I really appreciate it. I will check the voltages, but the wiring to the board should be right.

In terms of the incoming voltage, the red and red should be twisted together and the blacks should be twisted together. After that, it basically goes directly into the wall socket?

They are 3 pronged, assuming black is the center prong for ground, and the blades are red for positive? Plug in respectively to the transformer correct?
 
If you are in the USA or a country where 110 or 120V is the voltage, then yes. Red to red, and black to black.

DO NOT USE the center connection on your socket. That one goes to the cahssis (if you use a metallic enclosure).

The socket has three pins: two flat ones, and one round one (is slightly longer that the flat ones).
Connect the black and red wires to ANY of the flat ones. Do not connect anything to the round connection.
 
If you are in the USA or a country where 110 or 120V is the voltage, then yes. Red to red, and black to black.

DO NOT USE the center connection on your socket. That one goes to the cahssis (if you use a metallic enclosure).

The socket has three pins: two flat ones, and one round one (is slightly longer that the flat ones).
Connect the black and red wires to ANY of the flat ones. Do not connect anything to the round connection.

Awesome thanks!!! I hope I didn't screw anything up by hooking the binded black wire from the transformer to the chassis ground?

I also have a switch in my chassis

The two red wires coming in are off the left most blade and the black one is to the center prong which is to the chassis.

With that.... My binded black wires from the transformer should go to the right most blade on the plug receptacle and the red power should go to the AC out on that switch PCB. That about the idea?

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.