DAC 2496 (AK4393) DAC KIT With CS8416+AK4393+5532 - Page 243 - diyAudio
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Old 4th February 2013, 07:47 PM   #2421
Reality first!
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Location: Milan, Italy
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrKnow65 View Post
@Dario, in Google Doc's with the picture of the board and the drawn on schematic your circuit is incorrect for the 7912. You have it drawn with supply on pin 1, ground on pin 2, and regulated output on pin 3. The correct routing is ground on pin 1, supply on pin 2, and output on pin 3.
Correct.

Thanks for pointing it out, I've just updloaded an update pic.
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Old 11th February 2013, 06:58 PM   #2422
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Hi,
I'm looking to reduce jitter in my system, could anyone say how this dac is affected by jitter, if at all.
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Old 12th February 2013, 09:23 AM   #2423
erin is offline erin  Australia
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All DAC chips are affected by jitter. But, you will never notice it - until you hear a better source, with lower jitter, and then you will know what jitter sounds like.

Playing an LP would be the best way to completely eliminate jitter, but achieving SPDIF lock will be an issue.

If you use a PC for playback, use good playback software such as cPlay + CMP or Vortexbox.
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Old 14th February 2013, 01:48 PM   #2424
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I've wasted 19 days for a no show from Jab Electronics for stand-offs/nuts and bolts- an email to find out what the delay was resulted in a Paypal re-imbursement - no explanation, no apology - avoid like the plague.

So can anyone point me to a site where I can buy 20-25mm stand-offs plus nuts and bolts - I need these as I intend to build the DAC using both sides of the PCB and it will be used virtically - air flow/convection current.
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Old 14th February 2013, 03:28 PM   #2425
hotiron is offline hotiron  Scotland
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Default CM6331A

Look no farther than ebay Black Stuart!!
CM6631A came in the post today will do some experimenting once V>day is out of the way!!
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Old 14th February 2013, 03:37 PM   #2426
bcmbob is offline bcmbob  United States
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If you are willing to do some extra steps, your local hardware store has almost every size bolt/screw/nut. You can cut spacers to your exact requirements from aluminum or brass tubing. The hobby/model/craft shop also has a good selection of tubing.
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Old 15th February 2013, 12:37 AM   #2427
tofurky is offline tofurky  United States
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hey,
nearly done with this mini2496. i followed the BOM almost exactly, except i substituted some ceramics for the PLL, and some muse for the silmics. still waiting on some replacement 1.5uh inductors (1025-24K API Delevan [MIL] | 1134-1064-1-MIL | DigiKey) for L1 / L2 since the ones i bought were too big. they are rated at 560ma; should this be ok?
aside from being ocd about a few joints that i thought didnt flow properly, and unnecessarily desoldering and replacing, only to realize the groundplane was to blame and have it happen again, its gone well.
this pic shows how tight a fit the 2200uF turned out to be. i was able to wedge them in by installing the one near the 7809 first. however, the leads still come out pretty crooked. should this matter? also its very close to, but not quite touching the 7812 heatsink.
i see that the bypass caps for the 2200uF are omitted. would it be beneficial to use some spare 1000pF wima 100v for this role? or are they best left vacant?
also, i measured the 47k resistors before, and i thought they all measured OK. however i measured again after installing them and one of them is closer to 32k. i'm hoping this is due to it being paralleled with another resistance somewhere, but maybe it is bad? i've marked the area in the pic.
and one more question: the wima caps in the LPF are touching the solder joints of the resistors. i'm guessing its as good an insulator as the fiberglass PCB, but thought i'd ask if its ok anyhow.
thanks for the help and suggestions all.
-matt
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Old 15th February 2013, 04:46 PM   #2428
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bcmbob,
I live a good 135K from the nearest city - that's an expensive day long journey there and back. Luckily Hong Kong comes to the rescue again - great prices and normally quick delivery - going for both nylon and brass spacers.

Erin/Dario - I bought some special Russian spacecraft caps - 2% 1uf/250v polystyrene for coupling caps in my hybrid power amp - not as good as the de Graaf silver foil but close, loosing out on bass but very very good on voice, especially female, great stage depth, very impressed, overall a different, sound with some of it very life like and has convinced me more than ever to try some polystyrenes in this DAC. Unfortunately part of my ill-fated buy from Jabdog were a bunch of polystyrenes - will keep looking.
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Old 18th February 2013, 02:55 AM   #2429
tofurky is offline tofurky  United States
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hey,
well the capacitors do fit, i found that a bit of pressure is necessary to keep them vertical while soldering. it sounds good, better than my modded fiio d3. using an opa2107 for now, i will try some opa827 soon.
i initially used a standard 100ma fuse, but it blew instantly. swapped it out for a 100ma time lag and its been working fine since.
now, to find a chassis. been eyeing the lmg heeger OH series, since its cheap and vented, but open to other suggestions. even the largest option would be a tight fit.
-matt
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Old 22nd February 2013, 10:10 PM   #2430
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sorry to trouble you clave, i'm trying to this without asking you too many questions and also not pester my dad too much...
but, to the right of C28 is a capacitor that is unmarked according to your paths and numbering diagram. what goes there?
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