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Old 4th December 2012, 06:29 PM   #2301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarpMalone View Post
I'm not very technical and I'm just learning things along the way here, but have you considered just changing the resistors on the 317/337 board to get +/- 12v out? and omitting the 7812/7912 altogether?
Thats also a good idea. I was just thinking of doing something diff. and I had these 2 PSU boards with me lying around..
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Old 5th December 2012, 09:50 PM   #2302
Peterma is offline Peterma  Australia
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Thanks erin for your help with local parts distributer, just a question reguarding using a higher value cap, is it ok to use 3300uf for caps C23, C24 and C25 would this increase output voltage and cause damage to board?
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Old 8th December 2012, 04:35 PM   #2303
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my board finally arrived today. on close inspection i can't see any shorts on the legs of AK4396, although i'm sure i read somewhere that a couple of the legs should be intentionally shorted. all of my connections look clean per leg. Is this right?

also, i remember seeing some wimas on the under side of the board. was this dario's final board or someone elses (if you're around to answer dario)

Last edited by reg66; 8th December 2012 at 05:02 PM.
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Old 8th December 2012, 05:40 PM   #2304
bcmbob is offline bcmbob  United States
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Check HERE

Yes, Those wimas are part of the upgrade. I couldn't find them either
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Last edited by bcmbob; 8th December 2012 at 05:49 PM.
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Old 8th December 2012, 06:35 PM   #2305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reg66 View Post
my board finally arrived today. on close inspection i can't see any shorts on the legs of AK4396, although i'm sure i read somewhere that a couple of the legs should be intentionally shorted. all of my connections look clean per leg. Is this right?
Don't worry. The pads are already shorted on copper layer, some boards have also pins shorted but it's a question of cleaning...IMHO.

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Originally Posted by reg66 View Post
also, i remember seeing some wimas on the under side of the board. was this dario's final board or someone elses (if you're around to answer dario)
I'm still here...

It was a pic of one of my builds.

Mounting some caps underboard allow more space on the upper side but it's not required if you manage to fit all on one side.
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Old 8th December 2012, 07:22 PM   #2306
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great, cheers guys
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Old 8th December 2012, 10:32 PM   #2307
Max1410 is offline Max1410  Germany
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@Dario,
I have built the DAC like in your BOM, but Mouser has not the Nichicon LF 100uF/16V (C28, C30) on stock. I get this in February 2013!
On stock I have Nichicon BP and FW ( 100uF). The other way is to buy via E-Bay Sanyo OSCON 68uF/20V or 180 uF/20Vbut here are again shiping cost.
What shout I do? For the mean time buit one of the stock (Which BP or FW?) or buy of the Oscons? It is only the C30, because i go with the I2S Interface of one DSP direct to the AK4396 (behind the CS...).

Next to the C28 is a second electrolytic capacity (1uF) without Number. What shoul I put on this place i have Nichicon 10 uF it is o.k.?
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Old 9th December 2012, 11:47 AM   #2308
erin is offline erin  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peterma View Post
Thanks erin for your help with local parts distributer, just a question reguarding using a higher value cap, is it ok to use 3300uf for caps C23, C24 and C25 would this increase output voltage and cause damage to board?
Using a higher value will not cause any harm regarding voltage because there are regulators after the filter capacitors. If you check my fifth post. I use 22,000uf in this location.

What larger capacitance will do is reduce the ripple. As long as the part fits, I would highly recommend going for larger capacitance in this location.
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Last edited by erin; 9th December 2012 at 11:52 AM.
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Old 9th December 2012, 12:40 PM   #2309
zdr is offline zdr  Belgium
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Anyone compared this to DacMagic or similarly priced stock DACs? I see it has been asked before, but did not see the answer.
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Old 9th December 2012, 09:26 PM   #2310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max1410 View Post
I have built the DAC like in your BOM, but Mouser has not the Nichicon LF 100uF/16V (C28, C30) on stock. I get this in February 2013!
They're a more tight fit but you can order the 270uF ones (647-PLF1C271MDO1)

Or you can try Nichicon FP-CAPs (647-RS61C101MDS1JT), an italian forumer recommended them as the best digital caps ever but never managed to try them...

Otherwise order from ebay Sanyo SEPC

Quote:
Originally Posted by Max1410 View Post
Next to the C28 is a second electrolytic capacity (1uF) without Number. What shoul I put on this place i have Nichicon 10 uF it is o.k.?
Whatever 1uF elco.

That cap has no influence on sound.
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