DAC 2496 (AK4393) DAC KIT With CS8416+AK4393+5532 - Page 228 - diyAudio
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Old 20th November 2012, 12:00 PM   #2271
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A lot happened yesterday - I opened an email thinking it was about a shipment from the USA re. DHL - it was'nt, it was a 'ransom ware' attack (lots of effing and blinding), luckily Panda Cloud software neutralised it on start-up today.

Then the package from Along arrived much quicker than I was expecting.

For anyone who is thinking of buying a complete assembled kit or as seperate items which I chose - it was very well packed and I thought the quality of the chassis was as good as any chassis supplied with commercial equipment. The beauty of this chassis is that it comes in two parts and by just undoing the top screws front and back you can lift off the top half which gives complete access to the innards - why don't commercial gear use the same style. It means that I can adopt the best cabling technique which is - the best connector is no connector at all, aka, I can solder directly from PCB to PCB, just using rubber grommets to protect the dialectric entering the backplates.

The soldering of i/cs on both boards was first class and though there are no + or - lettering just by turning the board over it's crystal clear which way to solder polarised caps.

Another big plus is that with the supplied chassis there is plenty of room to solder off-board eg. big PSU caps.

Negatives - the supplied on-off switch has a rectangular shape that does'nt match the round hole in the faceplate - trying to get this to work meant that I broke the very brittle plastic and need to contact Along about a new on-off switch assembly and or buy a new one. Also 2 brass stand offs were missing from the packet of parts - I seem to have lots of spare screws.

All-in-all, Along is presenting a very well thought out product, which importantly is well packaged - don't ever under-estimate this important point
- yesterday I received a valve I had bought on Ebay.UK and it was badly packaged - one direct whack and the bottle would have been broken.

Dario - you mentioned that if you were to do more on this DAC it would be in the PS - would you care to tell us what you might do? I was thinking about building a bridge of Shottkies or others as well as increasing capacitance though not voltage for the PSU caps?

As if I needed reminding - I bodge soldered Z foil shunt Rs from Alps Blue to PCB in my Bada power hybrid amp - wow, suddenly the sound stage opened up, loads more detail and voices became almost holographic, they will be with the other mods I'm going to do - the point is that I shall use some Z foils in this DAC along with the PRPs soldered on pins - vamos a ver.
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Old 26th November 2012, 04:01 PM   #2272
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hi dario, sorry to trouble you again. i'm trying to do this in a complete novice manner but without troubling you or my dad/step dad too much.

i've bought 2 x nichicon 100uF 50V from mouser, part number 647-UFW1H101MPD for positions C3 and C27 according to the BOM.

however, going through my checklist, i see that C3 is 100uF 50V, but C27 is 10uF 100V.
is this a typo or do i need to order 10uF 100V?

also, C3 is shown on the schematic as 100nF non-electrolytic. i'm a little confused

i still have parts on back order at mouser, so i can still order from them at no extra cost, just need to know the right components!
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Old 26th November 2012, 06:38 PM   #2273
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Hi James,
a good question and it's easy to see why you asked it and I'm glad you did as I hav'nt put my parts order in yet.

I'm surprised that no one mentioned that Along's PCB has through hole plating, a huge plus if you have to desolder.

I broke the on-off switch because it has a rectangular face to fit into a round hole and the plastic is extremely brittle and it broke whilst I was trying to trim it to fit. OK take the positive from the negative - it's never a good idea to have mains wiring alongside signal components so I am going to enlarge the cut-out for the IEC plug and fit a 3-in-1 switch/fuse/plug there.
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Old 26th November 2012, 07:14 PM   #2274
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hi black stuart, just to let you know, i posted your parts thurs (i think) last week. good luck
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Old 26th November 2012, 10:41 PM   #2275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Stuart View Post
Dario - you mentioned that if you were to do more on this DAC it would be in the PS - would you care to tell us what you might do? I was thinking about building a bridge of Shottkies or others as well as increasing capacitance though not voltage for the PSU caps?
Soft recovery or Shottkies are a good idea, I don't think more capacitance is a good idea...

Quote:
Originally Posted by reg66 View Post
is this a typo or do i need to order 10uF 100V?
You're right...the Mouser order code is not the right one, it should be read 647-UFW2A100MED.

I've just updated the Google Docs BOM.

BTW for whom already bought the 100uF FWs: don't worry the 100uF value is also good for that posistion.
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Old 26th November 2012, 11:05 PM   #2276
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thanks again for the prompt response dario.
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Old 27th November 2012, 05:48 PM   #2277
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Can anyone point me to some drawings or images of how the I2S connections are made? (IE What pins connect to GND-DATA-LRCK-BCLK-MCLK)

Thanks
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Old 27th November 2012, 06:45 PM   #2278
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I have just ordered a bare board but the CS4398. Looking at Darios BOM it is evident that some of the dac pins and/or capacitors have changed. The schematic can be found here:

DAC: CS4398 with CS8416+CM102s

Looking at the 4 electrolytics around the dac, I am trying to assign them to the AK4396 board but could do with some clarification please.

C32 and C33 @ 10uF seem to be the same on both boards.
C30 10uF on the 4396 might become C35.
C35 on the 4396 appears notto be fitted.
C45 100uF is on 4398 but maybe not on the 4396

On Dario's BOM, C30 is a larger 100uF solid cap. The other 3 remain 10uF but changed for Cerrafines?

So I have bought 4 100uF Nichicon LF caps from slease-bay. One was for C45 but could I use the other three for C32, C33 and C35 on the CS4398 board without any detriment?

I was not going to fit any bypass caps to these 4 positions.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 27th November 2012, 07:29 PM   #2279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Little_Eddy View Post
I have just ordered a bare board but the CS4398. Looking at Darios BOM it is evident that some of the dac pins and/or capacitors have changed.
It's simply because they're different products... my BOM is for the AK4396 MINI2496.
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Old 28th November 2012, 01:42 PM   #2280
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Hi Dario,
If I use Shottkies to build bridges are these the right values - 2A/1000V? I have postioned all the components on the board (without soldering) and I see that I shall have to hotglue the 3 x PS caps to the chassis, only then can I build the Shottkie bridges.

I see that the Fischer heatsink is for using with the + reg. but none for the - regs, does that mean that the - regs generate no significant heat? I ask because in my two hybrid amps it is the 3 - regs that are heatsinked and not the 2 + regs.

Ditto the question from Darpmalone.

Stuart
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