DAC 2496 (AK4393) DAC KIT With CS8416+AK4393+5532 - Page 227 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Source & Line > Digital Source

Digital Source Digital Players and Recorders: CD , SACD , Tape, Memory Card, etc.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 14th November 2012, 10:04 AM   #2261
erin is offline erin  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: http://www.makeitpossible.com/
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Stuart View Post

You rec. Cerafine for decoupling of op-amps why not Oscons as per Erin?
Hello Black Stuart, just to clarify. I don't recall saying to use Oscon for decoupling the op amp. In fact I use Elna Silmic.

Silmic and Cerafine have a different sound. Personally I prefer the Silmic and Clave seems to prefer the Cerafine.

I guess its a matter of personal taste.
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th November 2012, 10:06 AM   #2262
erin is offline erin  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: http://www.makeitpossible.com/
Quote:
Originally Posted by reg66 View Post
i think from the erin's original post, that is the seller he or she used.
FYI I am he not she.

I hope this has not ruined my mystique
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th November 2012, 12:15 PM   #2263
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
to erin: thanks for clarifying!!

to bcmbob: thanks for words of advise. i may well go with 'double build' technique, just a bit worried that because i'm a noob with barely any soldering skills, i'll make a hash of the board soldering and de-soldering. i'll check out some youtube videos to see techniques
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th November 2012, 12:44 PM   #2264
bcmbob is offline bcmbob  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Bay City, Michigan
Someone sent a PM asking a photo of the R-core to PCB connection - thinking it might be more complicated than implied.

From upper right down:
1. Simple AC inlet- Green = hot, Black = Common, Gn/Yel = Earth Ground.
2. Fuse holder on Hot leg. Combination units for 1 & 2 can be purchased.
3. Main AC switch on Hot leg.
4. Three position Euro-Style terminal block. For both safety and secure but removable connection to transformer.
5. Supply wires entering trani at left side.
6. Board power supply wires - White = 9V, Brown & Yellow = 15V.
7. The Red wire is for 230 V applications. The end is covered with heat shrink tape.
8. The Blue wire is an extra 9V lead. Also protected on the end.

Just that simple.

IMPORTANT! It is always recommended to make a secure connection between the (Yellow/Green in this case) safety earth ground to the chassis with three wire AC mains. The only exception is in the use of what is called "double insulated" design where the power is never exposed to the possibility of touch. In the picture there are three potential shock hazards:

1. The bare ends of the fuse. That type should be used with the matching cover. A combo inlet/fuse fixture will eliminate that risk.
2. The unused tab on the two position mains switch needs to be removed and/or insulated. Selection of a switch without the extra pole is recommended.
3. Even though recessed, the terminal block screws could present a hazard from contact with a tool or probe.
4. The BNC S/PDIF connector used in this build is not ground insulated from the chassis. The earth/safety ground does not interfere with the signal.

Take your time and insure no uninsulated mains/AC wire is exposed to air anywhere along its path. If you can see it you can touch it.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg New R.jpg (233.2 KB, 544 views)
File Type: jpg Mix.jpg (94.3 KB, 515 views)
__________________
Bob M.
"Arrange Whatever Pieces Come Your Way."

Last edited by bcmbob; 14th November 2012 at 12:52 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th November 2012, 01:36 PM   #2265
bcmbob is offline bcmbob  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Bay City, Michigan
Quote:
Originally Posted by reg66 View Post
to erin: thanks for clarifying!!

........ just a bit worried that because i'm a noob with barely any soldering skills, i'll make a hash of the board soldering and de-soldering. i'll check out some youtube videos to see techniques
The technique that has worked best for me goes as follows:

1. Identify the leads of the pieces, one at a time, on the underside of the board. Use lots of liquid flux and solder removal braid to suck up as much solder as possible. You can see it flow to the braid from the joint. Only then remove the piece as less solder will collect in the via between top and bottom. Leads connected to large ground planes will require more heat.

2. When everything is removed, go back over all the pads with flux/braid to get the remaining solder off as best you can. Take care to not use excessive pressure as the braid can be abrasive. Just drag the braid slowly while keeping the iron above the pad.

3. If the holes are plugged use a junk resistor lead or small solid wire of the same size as the via to clear it. Heat the wire and pad together and a gentle pressure will make a penetration and the excess solder will transfer to the dummy lead. You may have to repeat several times cleaning the wire with a file or fine sandpaper. If the solder cools there is a risk of pulling out the via and/or lifting a trace. Just use very small movements and insure the solder is hot before extraction. Do not rush this step.

4. When all holes are clear, I use rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush (and a fingernail) to remove all the flux. Then I spray Dow Scrubbing Bubbles Cleaner on the bottom and agitate again with a brush. I use a wet/dry vacuum to remove that cleaner because paper and cloth towels leave a lot of lint on the remaining stubs/joints on the board. Use what you have.

5. Not necessary, but I use a clean shoe brush to polish things and impress myself of my good work.

It's my preference to remove all pieces I plan to replace before adding all the new items. If you want to do one piece/section and a time and test/audition, the above steps are still recommended.

Check Google again for solder removal braid videos.
__________________
Bob M.
"Arrange Whatever Pieces Come Your Way."

Last edited by bcmbob; 14th November 2012 at 01:40 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th November 2012, 02:20 PM   #2266
rpfunk is offline rpfunk  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Tulsa, OK
I also agree with Bob. I built the DAC as stock so that I could quickly replace a DAC on my PC that failed a while back. The improvement in sound quality over the line out on my sound card was huge. I am now going to order a blank board and install Dario's Mods and experiment. I have on several occasions ordered the wrong part from Mouser so I can agree with that point too. Its hard to justify paying $9 shipping for a .20 resistor.
  Reply With Quote
Old 14th November 2012, 03:51 PM   #2267
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
brilliant, thanks again guys
  Reply With Quote
Old 17th November 2012, 08:28 PM   #2268
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
hi dario (or anyone else who knows for sure)...

i ordered item 714682 from distrelec sweden, thinking they were right for R24 - R34.
however, whilst labelling/checking components that have arrived, i see they're 2.43Kohm 1/4W(which suit original board, as per BOM).

BUT, the modified BOM says 2.2Kohm 1/4W. i'm guessing it wouldn't do to try these resistors and just write them off, ordering 2.2Kohms instead.

is this right, i shouldn't use what i have already? (the 2.43K's)
  Reply With Quote
Old 17th November 2012, 08:30 PM   #2269
Reality first!
diyAudio Member
 
ClaveFremen's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Milan, Italy
Quote:
Originally Posted by reg66 View Post
i ordered item 714682 from distrelec sweden, thinking they were right for R24 - R34.
however, whilst labelling/checking components that have arrived, i see they're 2.43Kohm 1/4W(which suit original board, as per BOM).
Don't worry... 2.4K is the right value... PRPs are indicated as 2.2k simply because they're not available as 2.4k from PCX.
__________________
Dario
ClaveFremen "Bailando Salsa en el Sietch"
  Reply With Quote
Old 17th November 2012, 08:40 PM   #2270
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
great stuff, cheers
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
AK4393 burn... CIMONE Digital Line Level 5 24th June 2011 02:12 PM
AK4393 to CS4223? CIMONE Digital Line Level 0 13th December 2009 02:30 PM
AK4393 Serial Configuration Problem Aoxomox Digital Line Level 0 20th March 2009 05:25 PM
AK4393, CS8413 and CS8414 Data Sheets Blue_Max Digital Source 0 23rd December 2004 01:37 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 02:23 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2