DAC 2496 (AK4393) DAC KIT With CS8416+AK4393+5532

[bcmbob]

I have both of them and it's a toss-up. The Alps offers non-stepped operation but the 21 divisions on the SMD are more than adequate. The Alps is a heavier build but sounds a bit filtered when compared to the SMD. It is possible to fuse some of the resistors with excessive heat when attaching the leads to the inlets on the SMD pot.

If you plan to mount the pot directly on a PCB you need the Alps with pins. I haven't seen a motorized version of the SMD if you want remote control.

I lean toward the 10K SMD for it's clarity, but wouldn't hesitate buying the Alps Blue if the build/application required the physical features it offers.

The choice of 10K is matched to best operation with my particular power amp. You will need to select the value based on your system /amp specs..

[j baldam]

Hi,
Thanks this pot looks ok, bearing in mind my amps input is 3k ohms what would be the best pot from 10,20,50 and 100.
I am at a loss to understand input values.

[bcmbob]

You should be able to find your answer here.

[50AE]

Hi,

I removed "The unbalancer" and tried connecting my AK4396 chip directly to the input of the amp without a capacitor. The output gives +2,5V DC, so I turned the bias of the driver tube -2,5V more to cancel it. It looses versatility, but not a pain for me. The input impedance is 200k.

The sound ROCKS! In such words, I don't want to have capacitors again!

The problem is, the gain is not enough. How much swing is the DAC supposed to give? I need at least 1,5V for my amp for full volume. The digital part is the famous ebay USB to I2S converter, tenor chip. The AKM4396 is I2S connected now.

[ch33ta]

Welcome to the no capacitor club
I also gave up on coupling capacitors after I heard the DAC with output transformers and straight on Aleph Mini - no caps...

As for AK4396 output voltage - per datasheet in typical conditions it should give 5,6Vpp (~1,9Vrms) between it's differential outputs...
Keep in mind that both differential outputs are at +2,5VDC and you shouldn't connect either one on GND, you don't want current flowing to ground on a voltage-out DAC...
And also, if you're using only one of the diff. outputs you will get half the output signal - this could be your problem - assumed you were using "The unbalancer" to get SE output...
A little more detailed explanation of your output connections would help locate the problem...

[50AE]

This is the schematic:

Schematic

The datasheet also says that the max output capacitance to drive must be 25pF. If it's true, this worries me very much. No way to drive triode stuff with high gain.

I'm using the positive lead as illustrated. Ignore the stuff in color.

Can you recommend output transformers that will make the DAC happy?

[ch33ta]

Well, the problem is that you're using only one differential output, therefore the low signal, you should be getting a little below 1Vrms with that setup...

Transformers on the output would solve your problem, however it's a rather expensive solution, you won't get anything good below 100$...
UTC - very good, but a little overpriced
Tamura - a few good ones pop up on ebay once in a while
Sowter...
Lundahl...
any 600ohm:600ohm with good specs...

As for valves, I have no experience with them, so I'm not going to be of much use...
Just an observation, I could be wrong, but; if you use a push-pull valve amplifier you could use both of the DAC outputs.?

Also the "triode stuff with high gain" you mentioned, what would be the capacitance compared to the datasheet max. value?

[50AE]

Let's say 50-100pF.

[bcmbob]

I may not be reading this dialog correctly, but I have had excellent results combining this DAC with a JC-2 preamp. The goal for some may be to avoid using a pre for gain but it is a good sounding solution. The combination provides more gain than I could ever use on some pretty large speakers.

I have also gone straight from DAC to power amp with PC control and a simple discrete pot volume control. All three approaches have proven functional and enjoyable.

[ch33ta]

Originally Posted by 50AE

Let's say 50-100pF.

Well it is a "little bit" out of the specs, but I wouldn't worry too much - it should work OK...