DAC 2496 (AK4393) DAC KIT With CS8416+AK4393+5532 - Page 184 - diyAudio
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Old 31st May 2012, 04:57 PM   #1831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slider2828 View Post
Hi Everyone,

I am actually in need of some help.... I just got one of these Gigawork Dacs with a PCM1794+DI9001+PCM2902E

Upsampling 24bit/192 DAC KIT,TOROID TRAN,USB, PCM1794+DIR9001 | eBay

My problem is with the Toroidal Transformer. I am pretty sure I have the wires going to the board right, but the AC IN wires I just want to make sure. They are 4 wires (2red, 2black). I twisted the 2 red wires together and 2 black wires together for 110V. Then basically I put them into a plug / socket that goes into the wall.

The closest I got was two 12V LEDS to come on the board, nothing else. No Sound or Anything... Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Originally Posted by hotiron View Post
Can you post a pic of your transformer Slider?
Here is the picture if anyone can help!

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 31st May 2012, 05:52 PM   #1832
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Originally Posted by haik View Post
And what do you measure as secondary voltages? Also, what colors on the secondary winding do you have, and how much volts do they give (without load).
I have never really worked with power supply's / transformers, so I assume incoming is AC and to the secondary's (which are the 5 connections to the board) are also AC. I just measure the voltage by putting probe on 15V and 0V?

Thanks for everyone's help!!

-Ken

Last edited by slider2828; 31st May 2012 at 06:12 PM.
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Old 31st May 2012, 06:29 PM   #1833
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Set your digital multimeter to AC, and set it to 50V or higher. Or AUTO if you have that setting.
Set the probes between the white and the black. You should read something around 15-20V. Repeat it for the other white one. Putting probes between the two white ones, should be double the measured voltage (approximate 34-40V).

If that is correct, then connect the black one to the MIDDLE connector (of the three screws on the PCB connector), The other white ones go the 15VAC connection (most right and most left). It does not matter which white one to which side.
The most important thing is to have the BLACK one in the middle.

The two BLUE wires go to the 9VAC connection on the board. Polarity does not matter.
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Old 31st May 2012, 06:32 PM   #1834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haik View Post
Set your digital multimeter to AC, and set it to 50V or higher. Or AUTO if you have that setting.
Set the probes between the white and the black. You should read something around 15-20V. Repeat it for the other white one. Putting probes between the two white ones, should be double the measured voltage (approximate 34-40V).

If that is correct, then connect the black one to the MIDDLE connector (of the three screws on the PCB connector), The other white ones go the 15VAC connection (most right and most left). It does not matter which white one to which side.
The most important thing is to have the BLACK one in the middle.

The two BLUE wires go to the 9VAC connection on the board. Polarity does not matter.
Thanks so much for your help. I really appreciate it. I will check the voltages, but the wiring to the board should be right.

In terms of the incoming voltage, the red and red should be twisted together and the blacks should be twisted together. After that, it basically goes directly into the wall socket?

They are 3 pronged, assuming black is the center prong for ground, and the blades are red for positive? Plug in respectively to the transformer correct?
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Old 31st May 2012, 07:18 PM   #1835
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If you are in the USA or a country where 110 or 120V is the voltage, then yes. Red to red, and black to black.

DO NOT USE the center connection on your socket. That one goes to the cahssis (if you use a metallic enclosure).

The socket has three pins: two flat ones, and one round one (is slightly longer that the flat ones).
Connect the black and red wires to ANY of the flat ones. Do not connect anything to the round connection.
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Old 31st May 2012, 09:20 PM   #1836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haik View Post
If you are in the USA or a country where 110 or 120V is the voltage, then yes. Red to red, and black to black.

DO NOT USE the center connection on your socket. That one goes to the cahssis (if you use a metallic enclosure).

The socket has three pins: two flat ones, and one round one (is slightly longer that the flat ones).
Connect the black and red wires to ANY of the flat ones. Do not connect anything to the round connection.
Awesome thanks!!! I hope I didn't screw anything up by hooking the binded black wire from the transformer to the chassis ground?

I also have a switch in my chassis

The two red wires coming in are off the left most blade and the black one is to the center prong which is to the chassis.

With that.... My binded black wires from the transformer should go to the right most blade on the plug receptacle and the red power should go to the AC out on that switch PCB. That about the idea?

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 1st June 2012, 03:36 AM   #1837
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Anyways at this point, I got all the LEDs to go on.

My COAX is working without any jumpers but I am trying to get the optical in to work....

Are these the only jumpers I need to set? If so, how do I set them please!

Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by slider2828; 1st June 2012 at 03:40 AM.
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Old 1st June 2012, 04:41 AM   #1838
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Thanks everyone for their help! I got it all... THanks! PIctures soon
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Old 1st June 2012, 08:16 AM   #1839
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could you tell me if the input transformers i bought will be usable or not?

they're jensen je-10kb, same hookup & spec as jt-10kb. it's a 4:1 trafo, balanced....

would i just put the extra ground wires(white & black) to common ground on dac?
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Old 1st June 2012, 11:18 PM   #1840
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I've got a transformer with 13-0-13 and 8v (110v primary). Power led comes on but no sound. Is the 8v enough or do I need higher?
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