hi , i´ve built this dac , the board only , can someone explain me how to connect the transformer to the 15-0-15 ?
220V 115V 30W R Core Transformer for Preamp 9V 2 15V 2 | eBay
220V 115V 30W R Core Transformer for Preamp 9V 2 15V 2 | eBay
BROWN and YELLOW are 15 volts. So, take one of YELLOW and one of BROWN and solder/connect them. This is going to be 0V. Remaining YELLOW and BROWN ones going to be each 15V according to 0V.
Code:
BROWN -------- 15V
BROWN ----.
}--- 0V
YELLOW ---'
YELLOW -------- 15V
Isn't there a regulator before the LM117? Does that one still functions correctly?
Do you hear any sound at all out of the DAC such as whistling or low level distorted sound?
I have seen on professional digital active crossovers that occasionally the ak4396 will just die. But usually after many years of use. I've also seen the cs8416 die. If you own an oscilloscope it would be easy to find the fault. Check the i2s signals - if ok then the ak4396 has died. If no signals - its the receiver. Without a cro, its going to be hit and miss to find the fault. But since you say there was an electrical storm, and the board has regulators. I have a gut feeling its the cs8416 receiver which received a spike on its input , and it is dead.
Come back and provide as much information as you can. Of course check all output voltages not just 3.3V.
You may be able to put your finger on the receiver and the DAC chip and the one that is hot to touch is faulty.
I have seen on professional digital active crossovers that occasionally the ak4396 will just die. But usually after many years of use. I've also seen the cs8416 die. If you own an oscilloscope it would be easy to find the fault. Check the i2s signals - if ok then the ak4396 has died. If no signals - its the receiver. Without a cro, its going to be hit and miss to find the fault. But since you say there was an electrical storm, and the board has regulators. I have a gut feeling its the cs8416 receiver which received a spike on its input , and it is dead.
Come back and provide as much information as you can. Of course check all output voltages not just 3.3V.
You may be able to put your finger on the receiver and the DAC chip and the one that is hot to touch is faulty.
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Ive never tried it but I've seen it on some professional gear. You could use a 5 volt zener diode in series with a regular diode to shunt spikes to ground (x2)
this will give you the idea.
You could try a couple of specially designed TVS or ESD diodes. google it!
My inner audiophile thinks this may affect the sound. I could be completely wrong
this will give you the idea.
You could try a couple of specially designed TVS or ESD diodes. google it!
My inner audiophile thinks this may affect the sound. I could be completely wrong
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Hi Nosian,
do you have a scope?
or a volt meter?
Rat shack sells a digital signal reader ,it will read signals in and out,
You can separate the 2 chips by lifting a power pin or opening that one circuit and see what happens ,most chips get hot when shorted,a lot of the pins all read the same sometimes too,
Do you have a schematic,it helps to guide you along the path,that spike could have shorted a cap also ,if your good to the reg, check the bypass cap to see if it's ok ,
I hope this might be of some help to you,
Finished the DAC today. A very big thank you to Dario and his BoM
Soldering worked like a charm. And at least, with the BoM one could identify what should go where.
After powering up with no SPDIF source connected, 3 LEDs light up, Power, 96k and Error. After connecting my PC as a source, only power keeps connected.
Output on Analog side measured, is somewhere around 1-3mV. Should be ok I guess. As it was a test setup, I have not yet hooked it up to my system.
Regards,
Fabian
Soldering worked like a charm. And at least, with the BoM one could identify what should go where.
After powering up with no SPDIF source connected, 3 LEDs light up, Power, 96k and Error. After connecting my PC as a source, only power keeps connected.
Output on Analog side measured, is somewhere around 1-3mV. Should be ok I guess. As it was a test setup, I have not yet hooked it up to my system.
Regards,
Fabian
I just soldered up this DAC. It sounds ok, but there is slight crackling in both channels when music is playing. When i switch my fan on you can really hear a tirade of switch noise. This leads me to believe all this crackling is mains noise making it through the psu. Anyone else have this problem. The filtering seemed stout enough, i guess not. Maybe i need a mains filter.
Also i'm going to change out the opamp to an LM4562 or LME49720. I have some 1nf vishay 715 orange drops for c40,c41,c42,c43. Is it worth changing out c46,c47, i will have to order some 3.3nf if 1nf won't work? I have some 1k dale "pulse rated" 1% metal film resistors, worth putting in or should i find and match some carbon comps? Anything else i should do? I have read through a good part of this thread, seems like these things will do well.
thanks for the help
Also i'm going to change out the opamp to an LM4562 or LME49720. I have some 1nf vishay 715 orange drops for c40,c41,c42,c43. Is it worth changing out c46,c47, i will have to order some 3.3nf if 1nf won't work? I have some 1k dale "pulse rated" 1% metal film resistors, worth putting in or should i find and match some carbon comps? Anything else i should do? I have read through a good part of this thread, seems like these things will do well.
thanks for the help
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