DAC 2496 (AK4393) DAC KIT With CS8416+AK4393+5532 - Page 11 - diyAudio
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Old 25th May 2011, 01:04 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erin View Post
I tried Nichicon FW (which I like better in analog circuits [but could be wrong in this instance -perhaps I should have tried KZ??]) in the location of C32 and C33. Sadly it was a very bad sound -flat lifeless and slow (sorry!!).
Not strange at all, FWs are a good stepup from standard elcos but nothing special in absolute terms.

FWs are pretty good if very high value and voltage rating.

Quote:
Originally Posted by erin View Post
I then tried Oscon 47uf in C32 and C33, and it was too bright, not enough bass and a bit normal and boring sounding.

I then went back to 470uF oscon SEPC and found the very nice sound again.
Exactly what I've experienced with SCs/SAs, it could be that SEPC are better.

If they were still in production BlackGates woudl be perfect, probably; Cerafines are good substitutes.

C32 (Analog supply) and C33 (VRef) are different, probably C33 can be as low as 10uF-47uF but C32 should be bigger, i thought 47-100uF would be enough but probably 100-220uF is better.

Also for C33 noise performance is critical, C32 gives 'tone' so better audiograde.

Quote:
Originally Posted by erin View Post
I have not yet tried changing the Vref capacitor. Because, to be honest 470uF sounds very good.
I can try a 47uf or 33uf oscon here. I don't have any 10uf oscons.
Do you mean VCom?

Here I would try a Cerafine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by erin View Post
I might just add that I also bypass this 470uf Oscon with 220nf PPS capacitor.
Bypassing makes all the difference with much smoother HF and a more rich sounding midrange.
Too me this sounds as a audiograde cap is needed...

Btw for now all these could be speculations... I will report when dac arrives.

Attached are three shoots from my SACD player: before, tried Oscons, after (only Vref Oscons survived)
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File Type: jpg IMGP2952.JPG (95.9 KB, 2180 views)
File Type: jpg IMGP3295.JPG (104.4 KB, 2130 views)
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Last edited by ClaveFremen; 25th May 2011 at 01:08 PM.
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Old 25th May 2011, 11:29 PM   #102
erin is offline erin  Australia
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Yes, I meant to write Vcom.
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Old 28th May 2011, 02:13 AM   #103
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I bought one of these a while ago, I've had it for a couple of days and it's built.

The build was very straightforward, I used the included components, because of the numbers tallying with the spaces on the board there was little likelihood of a mistake. I liked the fact that there was a socket provided for the opamp, although I have no particular complaint with the NE5532.

I have tried the DAC with a number of sources, probably the one with the best reputation is my soundcard, an M-Audio Delta 2496, I have a choice of players including Foobar and Cubase with kernel and ASIO drivers, the OS is XP. The DAC just worked, no problems. It's very good value at about UKP20 shipped.

I have listened with a variety of amps, a homebrew TPA6120, cmoy with a few different opamps, Behringer mixer, I found little to distinguish the DAC from the many sources I have here including the DVD and BluRay players, the soundcard audio output, various portable CDPs and MP3 players. Fostex 8-track.

About the only complaint, I would have preferred a socket for the SPDIF input, RCA or better 75ohm BNC, but it's not a big deal, I stick to short cables, most of my material is 44k1 so I have no concerns about reflections in the cable.

All-in-all a cheap bit of fun that I'd recommend to anyone with soldering skills.

9+

w
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Old 28th May 2011, 03:40 AM   #104
erin is offline erin  Australia
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Originally Posted by wakibaki View Post
I found little to distinguish the DAC from the many sources I have here
With stock standard parts its will sound like everything else. Which goes to show that for the price its a good thing. A reduction in grain and sibilance, and an increase in clarity and depth can be obtained by installing better capacitors.

Its a good thing that you built the kit standard, because when you get around to it you will now be able to swap out some caps and hear the difference for yourself. Glad you like it.
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Old 28th May 2011, 12:03 PM   #105
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waki, drill two additional holes to fit a socket
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Old 28th May 2011, 01:58 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wakibaki View Post
I bought one of these a while ago, I've had it for a couple of days and it's built.

The build was very straightforward, I used the included components, because of the numbers tallying with the spaces on the board there was little likelihood of a mistake.

All-in-all a cheap bit of fun that I'd recommend to anyone with soldering skills.

9+

w
so sound good for price, in stock form, thanks.

I am unclear on how to power this, do I need a separate DC PS/wallwart?, has optical input I assume (will connect to my PC) and can use my t-amp clone to power thru RCA output?, sorry for the newbie question on this DAC.
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Old 28th May 2011, 02:27 PM   #107
erin is offline erin  Australia
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You need one or two transformer that will output (AC 15-0-15 and 0-9 Volts)
(Or 12-0-12 and 0-9 volts). Some of the ebay sellers supply transformers or buy them locally. You will need to buy an optical receiver separately if you want to use toslink. The optical recievers have 3 pins: Vin, gnd, and data.
Vin is either 3.3v or 5V depending upon which one you buy, you then connect Vin to the appropriate point on the circuit to get the power, gnd and data to the SPDIF input.

check out the optical receiver datasheet here.
Connections are per datasheet. You don't strictly need to use the inductor to get it to work...

http://www.datasheetarchive.com/TORX173-datasheet.html

Last edited by erin; 28th May 2011 at 02:32 PM.
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Old 28th May 2011, 03:25 PM   #108
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hello everyone!
im wondering if i could just use two 12VAC trafos not the simmetric 12-0-12 one as i dont need opamp and have couple of 12vac trafos lying around...so i'd simply connect rectified 12VDC to plus instead of using kbp206 and ground the minus?

as far as i understand only negative voltage is needed for opamps, so i wouldnt use c25 and 7912 at all....
please correct me if im wrong!

oh and i'll be building 48V aikido and i'll be taking signal directly from chip through caps.. i hope it will sound good indeed.

thanks a lot!
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Old 28th May 2011, 11:52 PM   #109
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stormsonic, thanks.

As far as transformers are concerned, I bought the one for 0-15 0-15, but the 9v came from a disused wall-wart, of which I have over 20 collected over time from modems, routers, computer speakers, CDPs etc. It's worth having a look to see if you've got anything suitable.

As regards connecting 2 to the 15-0-15, you need to be sure that you connect the phases correctly, which would be easier if you have 2 identical ones. You could also connect rectified DC direct to the regulators, but I don't suggest you do either unless you are absolutely certain you know what you're doing.

w
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Old 29th May 2011, 12:04 AM   #110
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[QUOTE=erin;2524643


Funny thing is just how hot all the capacitors get. I think it needs a lot more than the supplied 1800uf reservoir capacitors. I intend to build an off board power supply with more capacitance for it.
[/QUOTE]

Capacitors tendto get hot if:
1/ Voltage is too high.
2/ Surge current is too high.
3/ Capacitor is next to another component that gets hot.

This needs some investigation to get to the bottom of the problem.
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