DAC 2496 (AK4393) DAC KIT With CS8416+AK4393+5532 - Page 104 - diyAudio
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Old 2nd January 2012, 03:12 PM   #1031
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simes123 View Post
Finished. A DAC integrated, ICE Powered Amplifier, using the DAC module in this thread, a pre-amp module, and an ICE Power, 125ASX2 power amplifier module. DAC has had the voltage regs upgraded, the LPF corrected, and I'm using LM4562 Op Amps in the DAC and pre-amp.

Solved the hum problem - I had to run grounds to chassis from the centre tap, and then bond that to signal ground on the DAC board and on the pre-amp board. If I turn it to full volume, and stick my head against the speaker, I can *just* perceive some slight mains hum, but I couldn't eradicate that with any amount of fiddling or changing layout. It's such a low level now I can live with it. I've attached pictures in case anyone is interested in the layout, or the finished product. The case is from a Rotel 10 series DVD player that died a few moons ago. I created a new front panel from Dark Walnut, which turned out to be the trickiest part of the build as it needed some quite complex routing to accommodate the chassis.
Hi

What type of caps are you using in the PS section for the DAC? Looking at the color it seems to be Suncon(sanyo)?

/Bjarne
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Old 2nd January 2012, 07:43 PM   #1032
Veggiel is offline Veggiel  Belgium
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Originally Posted by pchw View Post

Recall that in a few post back, I planned to take the output from the AK4696 directly without LPF and opamp. I spent some time in the last few days to try out 2 configurations:
1. Output transformer (a cheap pair that I have around, Edcor PW600/600).
2. Capacitor out (Silmic II 10 uF // CDE Vitamin Q 0.47 uF // 6200pF FT2 Telfon).
Since I don't use the opamp, I only use a Radioshack 120V/12.6VAC 3A transformer which is more than enough to power the board.
What parts of the power supply can be modified when using the ditrect out, with a capacitor?

I have now this setup so the op amp section not being used, but I left all the components on the pcb in place.

If you could also give some more info on how you made it possible to use one 12v transformer, that would be very helpfull.
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Old 2nd January 2012, 09:22 PM   #1033
pchw is offline pchw  United States
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Originally Posted by defec View Post
Okay. I was just hoping one of the sellers plagiarized ClaveFremen's BOM so that I had less to do.
LOL, 2012 wishful thinking :-)
If they did, I guess the price would likely be doubled which may not be as appealing, and we, diyers, are likely to take it apart anyway
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Old 2nd January 2012, 09:42 PM   #1034
pchw is offline pchw  United States
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Originally Posted by johnm View Post
I agree completely - I've even used them as DC blockers in the input of a couple of amps (whilst waiting for film caps) and to be honest I thought they belied their budget price. I didnt hear any 'compression' or grainyness - sounded very organic to me in fact after a few days running in, quite close to Black Gate Standard...

I guess we all hear differently, and have varying taste. That's the joy of DIY though isn't it - we can tailor the sound to our own preferences
This reminded me one conversation with my wife about who was the sexiest movie star. Obviously, we didn't come to any agreement at all
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Old 2nd January 2012, 10:09 PM   #1035
pchw is offline pchw  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Veggiel View Post
What parts of the power supply can be modified when using the ditrect out, with a capacitor?

I have now this setup so the op amp section not being used, but I left all the components on the pcb in place.

If you could also give some more info on how you made it possible to use one 12v transformer, that would be very helpfull.
Attached 2 pictures to show how it is connected.

1st picture showed the 12VAC input. In order to do so, use Greg's picture as in post 958. Keep in mind, when you want to switch to use opamp, you will need to either remove this link or remove this transformer.

2nd picture shows how the caps are connected. Basically, I took the outputs from the L+ and R+. When the board is in the same orientation as in the picture, that will be the 1st and the 3rd of the 1K resistors from the LEFT.

Since I want some flexibilities,
1. I didn't solder the transformer into the fuse and the on/off switch. The
idea is that I can swap in my second board into the same chassis without
the soldering iron at all.
2. I soldered 4 header pins into the 1K resistors holes so that I can solder
and desolder from these spots so that I won't lift the trace from the board
by accident.
3. I soldered the other side of the cap to the board at the far side of the
2 1K resistors instead of directly into the RCA jacks, same reason as
#1. The 3 wires from the RCA's are connected to the board's screw on
connectors.

I hope this will help.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC07108.JPG (151.9 KB, 639 views)
File Type: jpg DSC07109.JPG (149.7 KB, 621 views)
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Old 2nd January 2012, 10:12 PM   #1036
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Hi. I have tried 3 opamps with this kit: 5532, ad8066 and lme49720 - i get a buzzing sound from the speakers only when i use ad8066. the buzzing sound has a varying volume (always lower compared to music signal) and sometimes it is stronger on one channel than the other. Could that indicate an oscillation problem? The opamp caps are 100uf Cerafines and im using a 0.1uf BGnxHiQ across the power pins of AD8066 and LME49720.The kit is assembled using dario's BOM but there are some differences. Any input is appreciated
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Old 2nd January 2012, 10:30 PM   #1037
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For those who using direct-out with dc-blocking cap as output stage, I recommend you to trial with decoupling and bypass caps on analog supply pins of AK4396. And I suggest you to not blindly following any boutique part recommendations.

In my tests, i see that decoupling cap is very critical on final sound behavior. Industrial type, high ripple caps are best in this place in my opinion. These caps are slightly bigger than their counterparts and even cheaper than "audio grade??" ones. My current setup employs 100nF Ceramic as bypass and 100uF/16v Nichicon PZ as decoupling. This combination smashed my previous favorite Elna SilmicII's.

Last edited by terranigma; 2nd January 2012 at 10:44 PM.
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Old 2nd January 2012, 11:04 PM   #1038
pchw is offline pchw  United States
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Did you mean C32, C33 and their corresponding bypasses, C19, C20 (from Dario's components diagram)? Currently, I have Silmic II 22uF/16V.
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Old 2nd January 2012, 11:10 PM   #1039
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terranigma View Post
I recommend you to trial with decoupling and bypass caps on analog supply pins of AK4396. And I suggest you to not blindly following any boutique part recommendations.
...
This combination smashed my previous favorite Elna SilmicII's.
I do agree, in that position Silmics are not so good, in fact I'm recomending Cerafines there...
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Old 2nd January 2012, 11:16 PM   #1040
johnm is offline johnm  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terranigma View Post
For those who using direct-out with dc-blocking cap as output stage, I recommend you to trial with decoupling and bypass caps on analog supply pins of AK4396. And I suggest you to not blindly following any boutique part recommendations.

In my tests, i see that decoupling cap is very critical on final sound behavior. Industrial type, high ripple caps are best in this place in my opinion. These caps are slightly bigger than their counterparts and even cheaper than "audio grade??" ones. My current setup employs 100nF Ceramic as bypass and 100uF/16v Nichicon PZ as decoupling. This combination smashed my previous favorite Elna SilmicII's.
You might want to try military spec. tantalum caps on the outputs too (the metal bodied versions, not the cheap yellow or blue caps) - they really do sound quite special.
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