Hi Brethren,
The remote functions on my SP1000 recently gave up on me. I have the stock Onkyo RC-563DV remote that continues to control my integrated amp just fine however, it fails to control ANY functions on the player.
It was working intermittently a few months ago and I changed batteries which I thought alleviated the problem.
Well, now, even with battery changes, the remote does not control the SP1000 at all.
The player still operates flawlessly but I can't control it.
Has anyone experienced anything similar to this issue? Any tips on where I should start to troubleshoot? I've opened her up to see if I can find the IR wiring but there's a lot more to her guts than I anticipated.
I don't have a schematic and I don't want to lose the ability to play her by screwing something up.
If someone has a schematic and a few minutes to point me in the right direction I'd truly appreciate it.
I've opened up the chassis and located the ir sensor - it may be the culprit (looks dim/almost black).
I cleaned all contact points internally presumably associated with the ir towards the front of the unit inclusive of the solder points of the ir itself on the board without success.
Looks like I may have to replace the part U7501 on the board.
Any other ideas?
Thanks in advance!
Angelo
p.s. I use the sp1000 sole as an audio source. I have yet to find anything in this pricerange that can outperform the organic audio qualities outside of my humble vinyl rig.
The remote functions on my SP1000 recently gave up on me. I have the stock Onkyo RC-563DV remote that continues to control my integrated amp just fine however, it fails to control ANY functions on the player.
It was working intermittently a few months ago and I changed batteries which I thought alleviated the problem.
Well, now, even with battery changes, the remote does not control the SP1000 at all.
The player still operates flawlessly but I can't control it.
Has anyone experienced anything similar to this issue? Any tips on where I should start to troubleshoot? I've opened her up to see if I can find the IR wiring but there's a lot more to her guts than I anticipated.
I don't have a schematic and I don't want to lose the ability to play her by screwing something up.
If someone has a schematic and a few minutes to point me in the right direction I'd truly appreciate it.
I've opened up the chassis and located the ir sensor - it may be the culprit (looks dim/almost black).
I cleaned all contact points internally presumably associated with the ir towards the front of the unit inclusive of the solder points of the ir itself on the board without success.
Looks like I may have to replace the part U7501 on the board.
Any other ideas?
Thanks in advance!
Angelo
p.s. I use the sp1000 sole as an audio source. I have yet to find anything in this pricerange that can outperform the organic audio qualities outside of my humble vinyl rig.
Tough one to answer. As a repair tech I know 99% of remote problems are down to the remote itself or a software setting.
If the handset you have works other stuff OK (your amp) then my first thought is whether there is a setting/switch etc somewhere on the player/ or remote to use a "different" coding. That was often done to prevent interaction with other products. If so obviously both handset and equipment have to be using the same.
Can't really think of anything else tbh.
If player were genuinely faulty then a quick scope check on the IR receiver would prove if that was OK. Very rare for them to fail although it does occasionally happen. It's black to filter out light and just allow IR through.
If the handset you have works other stuff OK (your amp) then my first thought is whether there is a setting/switch etc somewhere on the player/ or remote to use a "different" coding. That was often done to prevent interaction with other products. If so obviously both handset and equipment have to be using the same.
Can't really think of anything else tbh.
If player were genuinely faulty then a quick scope check on the IR receiver would prove if that was OK. Very rare for them to fail although it does occasionally happen. It's black to filter out light and just allow IR through.
Don't have access to a scope
But I will see if there is a way I can bring to a local tech.
I thought the same thing about the issue being the remote itself, but again, since it still controls the integrated amp, the remote doesn't seem to be the issue. There is still a slim chance it may just not operate the unit but it is the stock Onkyo remote which came with the player.
The only way to truly alleviate the remote from the problem is if I can locate another one and test it out.
With the scarcity of the DV-SP1000 I doubt that I will have an opportunity like that anytime soon.
Do you think connecting an IR repeater to the remote 1/8" jacks on the rear of the player will yield any success or does the ir capability lie solely within a chipset?
Ugh...I feel as if I have two turntables now (some may not see this as a problem
) however, I do enjoy being able to just sit and control everything from the captain's chair.
Thanks for your input Mooly and in advance for any additional help.
Regards and happy listening!
But I will see if there is a way I can bring to a local tech.
I thought the same thing about the issue being the remote itself, but again, since it still controls the integrated amp, the remote doesn't seem to be the issue. There is still a slim chance it may just not operate the unit but it is the stock Onkyo remote which came with the player.
The only way to truly alleviate the remote from the problem is if I can locate another one and test it out.
With the scarcity of the DV-SP1000 I doubt that I will have an opportunity like that anytime soon.
Do you think connecting an IR repeater to the remote 1/8" jacks on the rear of the player will yield any success or does the ir capability lie solely within a chipset?
Ugh...I feel as if I have two turntables now (some may not see this as a problem
) however, I do enjoy being able to just sit and control everything from the captain's chair.Thanks for your input Mooly and in advance for any additional help.
Regards and happy listening!
If the idea of the IR repeater is so that you can have the amplifier on show, but the CD player in a cupboard/another room and still have remote command of the CD player then this could be interesting.
I would imagine that in this instance the amplifier would decode the IR command and send it to the CD player through the cable on the back, thus giving you remote control from another room etc.
This might work as a get around for your problem, that is, if the IR receiver etc is broken in the CD player, but the rest of the circuitry/software is still working.
I would imagine that in this instance the amplifier would decode the IR command and send it to the CD player through the cable on the back, thus giving you remote control from another room etc.
This might work as a get around for your problem, that is, if the IR receiver etc is broken in the CD player, but the rest of the circuitry/software is still working.
If you point the remote at a digital camera/webcam etc you will see it flash. Doesn't tell you much but it might be useful to see if it seems similar when used in amp or cd mode. I just know from experience that the electronics are supremely reliable and a faulty chip in the player would be the very last suspect... that's not to say it won't be but 99.99% of the time it isn't.
Can't really say whether the repeater would prove anything or not. All the decoding is done in the player, the IR receiver just outputs a data stream of 1's and 0's corresponding to the appropriate button on the handset.
Have you tried a cheapo universal pre programmed remote to see if anything works.
Can't really say whether the repeater would prove anything or not. All the decoding is done in the player, the IR receiver just outputs a data stream of 1's and 0's corresponding to the appropriate button on the handset.
Have you tried a cheapo universal pre programmed remote to see if anything works.
Last edited:
Haven't tried the universal remote
I just figured if I'm going to plunk down money I would bypass the IR circuitry (am I mistaken by thinking this?) by going directly through the remote function.
My understanding of the repeater is that one does not need to have direct (line of sight) access from handset to player and, essentially, backdoors the remote commands directly to the player's internal receiver (as if it were wired vs. transmitted via ir)
I'm probably not using the correct terminology so please excuse my lack of technical terms.
The cost of a decent universal vs. an ir repeater is greater thus I wanted to go the cheaper, more direct, route as well.
I am doing so on the assumption that the repeater is taking the place of whatever faulty receiving circuitry on the "front end" of the player and trying to use a pseudo-direct remote command.
Am I making any sense using this rationale?
I just figured if I'm going to plunk down money I would bypass the IR circuitry (am I mistaken by thinking this?) by going directly through the remote function.
My understanding of the repeater is that one does not need to have direct (line of sight) access from handset to player and, essentially, backdoors the remote commands directly to the player's internal receiver (as if it were wired vs. transmitted via ir)
I'm probably not using the correct terminology so please excuse my lack of technical terms.
The cost of a decent universal vs. an ir repeater is greater thus I wanted to go the cheaper, more direct, route as well.
I am doing so on the assumption that the repeater is taking the place of whatever faulty receiving circuitry on the "front end" of the player and trying to use a pseudo-direct remote command.
Am I making any sense using this rationale?
^^^
This is exactly what I am trying to achieve. I will happily live with an ir repeater plugged in to the player.
I don't think you can assume the receiver is faulty... there are to many unknowns to guess.
Most receivers are simple 3 terminal components that cost little such as,
Search Results | CPC
The only way to know if the repeater will work is to try one.
Most receivers are simple 3 terminal components that cost little such as,
Search Results | CPC
The only way to know if the repeater will work is to try one.
not making any assumptions just yet
Just figured this was simple way to eliminate a faulty receiving unit within the player.
Again, if the handset has the ability to control other units, a NAD 372 in this case, but not the OEM Onkyo player it was initially intended to, the tendency to direct attention at the player versus the handset may prove more fruitful.
Mooly, maybe you can further help me with my theory - if the repeater works and controls the player, how intricate is the circuitry, under the majority of units with ir problems, to repair/replace? I did locate the receiving unit, U5701 on the front board behind the fascia of the player but I can't even begin to track down where that puppy leads to.
I can only guess, without a schematic for the DV-SP1000, the receiving circuitry can be located anywhere within the chassis - is this usually lumped on to a board or isolated and easily replaceable?
On a positive note, I now have another project for this weekend
Thanks again to Mooly and all
Just figured this was simple way to eliminate a faulty receiving unit within the player.
Again, if the handset has the ability to control other units, a NAD 372 in this case, but not the OEM Onkyo player it was initially intended to, the tendency to direct attention at the player versus the handset may prove more fruitful.
Mooly, maybe you can further help me with my theory - if the repeater works and controls the player, how intricate is the circuitry, under the majority of units with ir problems, to repair/replace? I did locate the receiving unit, U5701 on the front board behind the fascia of the player but I can't even begin to track down where that puppy leads to.
I can only guess, without a schematic for the DV-SP1000, the receiving circuitry can be located anywhere within the chassis - is this usually lumped on to a board or isolated and easily replaceable?
On a positive note, I now have another project for this weekend
Thanks again to Mooly and all
Last edited:
The circuitry is "simple".
You have the receiver, and these are all basically the same (only difference is in the "centre" frequency they are tuned for... but usually work no matter what). I can tell you more on that if you need to know although we don't know what yours uses.
The receiver has ground and 5 volts applied and the output is fed to some form of microprocessor. That's it really. Experience says it is never the chip. The receivers can give trouble occasionally and it should be a two minute job to isolate and tack another on the player to check.
You have the receiver, and these are all basically the same (only difference is in the "centre" frequency they are tuned for... but usually work no matter what). I can tell you more on that if you need to know although we don't know what yours uses.
The receiver has ground and 5 volts applied and the output is fed to some form of microprocessor. That's it really. Experience says it is never the chip. The receivers can give trouble occasionally and it should be a two minute job to isolate and tack another on the player to check.
That's interesting, I'd definitely go for something like that first.
Another thought,
You could even connect an LED and resistor to the receiver to see if it flashes when a command is received.
I have done the "rudimentary" process of elimination
and have switched back and forth between controlling the NAD and the Onkyo. That doesn't mean that the functions of the handset work while in "Onkyo" mode but clearing all remote codes and function codes - essentially resetting the remote back to stock - did not obtain the results I was hoping for hence my posting on here for help
Also, in the manual, it speaks of the unit not responding to remote codes (seems to possibly have been a known issue) and the microprocessor being affected by other frequencies/electrical sources/etc. I have also moved the unit out of the area where it usually resides - power cycled, reset all factory settings, unplugged, did a headstand while drinking water and chanting Kumbaya all to no avail
I guess, to properly eliminate any doubts, I will need: another Onkyo remote; ir repeater; another dv-sp1000. From a monetary standpoint, working from the least expensive to the most - this is the path I will take: 1) repeater 2) remote and 3) SP1000. It would be nice to have both 1 and 2 together essentially killing 2 birds with one stone.
Getting my hands on another SP1000 has proven far more difficult than I imagined.
The owners that are familiar with its performance are hanging on to them like rations during a Worldwar. I don't blame them.
and have switched back and forth between controlling the NAD and the Onkyo. That doesn't mean that the functions of the handset work while in "Onkyo" mode but clearing all remote codes and function codes - essentially resetting the remote back to stock - did not obtain the results I was hoping for hence my posting on here for help
Also, in the manual, it speaks of the unit not responding to remote codes (seems to possibly have been a known issue) and the microprocessor being affected by other frequencies/electrical sources/etc. I have also moved the unit out of the area where it usually resides - power cycled, reset all factory settings, unplugged, did a headstand while drinking water and chanting Kumbaya all to no avail
I guess, to properly eliminate any doubts, I will need: another Onkyo remote; ir repeater; another dv-sp1000. From a monetary standpoint, working from the least expensive to the most - this is the path I will take: 1) repeater 2) remote and 3) SP1000. It would be nice to have both 1 and 2 together essentially killing 2 birds with one stone.
Getting my hands on another SP1000 has proven far more difficult than I imagined.
The owners that are familiar with its performance are hanging on to them like rations during a Worldwar. I don't blame them.
this sounds like another alternative to finding another Onkyo remote - easy to do?
I'm very newb to DIY - please excuse the lack of experience rigging in test LEDs etc.
Will soldering in any LED at the U5701 receiver point work to show a positive reception of signal?
It depends on how the receiver works.
Remote controls work by sending out an infrared PWM signal.
Now receivers usually contain the photosensitive diode and a pre amplifier. The diode detects the infrared signal and feeds into the preamplifier. The internal preamp usually decodes the PWM signal and turns it into a train of binary 1 and 0s.
It is this binary stream that is fed into the microcontrller.
Connecting an LED to the output of the receiver would have the LED on all the time and any time a signal sends the output low, it would turn off. For Philips RC5 protocol each transmission takes ~25ms, there is a chance that it would go by too quickly for you to see much of a change in the LEDs brightness. The easiest approach is to put an oscilloscope on the output of the receiver, then it's easy to see that it's working. But by the sounds of things you don't have one of these available to you.
It seems like the remote control is working, or at least it would seem that way.
Obviously the DVD player responds to manual control of the buttons, so it's unlikely that the micro controller is broken, or that it's getting stuck at some part of the software that it is running.
Do you have a multimeter available because I've just done two tests with an IR receiver I've recently implemented that could help diagnose the problem.
The first is to measure the voltage on the output of the IR receiver. If it is nominally high, it should read either around 3.3 volts, or 5 volts.
If you send out a signal from the remote control and the decoder successfully decodes stuff, then the average voltage reading should decrease as the train of zeros in the transmission effectively lowers the average voltage.
With RC5 protocol this works well because if a button is held down repeatedly the remote repeats the initial transmission once every 100ms. With my IR the voltage fell from 3.2volts down to 2.8.
The second option is to use the frequency measurement on the multimeter. When measuring the frequency present on the output of the IR receiver it would show 160hz for a volume down command and 150 hz for a volume up command. With no command the multimeter went crazy as there's a lot of high frequency switching going on in the area, but if the inside of the DVD player is quite quiet it should show zero hz for no signal.
EDIT - One thing to mention is that the receiver is not picky about what you send it. Even if the command issued by the remote control is say make the pigeon flap it's wings, the receiver will still decode this. The micro controller however would ignore it as it doesn't make any sense to it. For this reason you could tell the remote control to emit an RC5 style command as we know (or at least I've measured here) what to expect from the standard volume up and volume down commands for a pre amp.
Remote controls work by sending out an infrared PWM signal.
Now receivers usually contain the photosensitive diode and a pre amplifier. The diode detects the infrared signal and feeds into the preamplifier. The internal preamp usually decodes the PWM signal and turns it into a train of binary 1 and 0s.
It is this binary stream that is fed into the microcontrller.
Connecting an LED to the output of the receiver would have the LED on all the time and any time a signal sends the output low, it would turn off. For Philips RC5 protocol each transmission takes ~25ms, there is a chance that it would go by too quickly for you to see much of a change in the LEDs brightness. The easiest approach is to put an oscilloscope on the output of the receiver, then it's easy to see that it's working. But by the sounds of things you don't have one of these available to you.
It seems like the remote control is working, or at least it would seem that way.
Obviously the DVD player responds to manual control of the buttons, so it's unlikely that the micro controller is broken, or that it's getting stuck at some part of the software that it is running.
Do you have a multimeter available because I've just done two tests with an IR receiver I've recently implemented that could help diagnose the problem.
The first is to measure the voltage on the output of the IR receiver. If it is nominally high, it should read either around 3.3 volts, or 5 volts.
If you send out a signal from the remote control and the decoder successfully decodes stuff, then the average voltage reading should decrease as the train of zeros in the transmission effectively lowers the average voltage.
With RC5 protocol this works well because if a button is held down repeatedly the remote repeats the initial transmission once every 100ms. With my IR the voltage fell from 3.2volts down to 2.8.
The second option is to use the frequency measurement on the multimeter. When measuring the frequency present on the output of the IR receiver it would show 160hz for a volume down command and 150 hz for a volume up command. With no command the multimeter went crazy as there's a lot of high frequency switching going on in the area, but if the inside of the DVD player is quite quiet it should show zero hz for no signal.
EDIT - One thing to mention is that the receiver is not picky about what you send it. Even if the command issued by the remote control is say make the pigeon flap it's wings, the receiver will still decode this. The micro controller however would ignore it as it doesn't make any sense to it. For this reason you could tell the remote control to emit an RC5 style command as we know (or at least I've measured here) what to expect from the standard volume up and volume down commands for a pre amp.
Last edited:
Connect any LED in series with a resistor of say 2.2k. If you connect this from the supply of the receiver (5 volt) to it's output the LED will only flash or light when the output goes low (when code is received). Make sure the LED is the correct way round.
Using a voltmeter as 5th element says would work too.
It should be fairly obvious what the connections are on the receiver. Just ground and 5 volts with the output pin normally at 5 volts with no signal.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.