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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: town
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I'd like to repair my CD player. The problem: playing stops after 3-5 mins and don't start again. After a power off and about an hour wait time it can work again for 3-5 min.
Can anyone help me? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Singapore
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Hi, sounds like you have a heat problem, check if your voltage regulaters are hot after 3-5mins, or when the player shuts down.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: diepe zuiden
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Probably a bad solderjoint at a component getting hot.
When the part gets hot, the metal gets a bit bigger and contact is lost with the pcb. Powersupply is indeed a good place to start, check the regulators. GuidoB
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GuidoB |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Hungary
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Hi Gaborka!
In my opinion you have one or more old dried electrolitics in your CD player. An old dried electrolitic capacitor has some but very little capacity, when it is cold. The situation can change dramatically when its temperature is rising after some minutes operation Change the electrolitics to new ones with the same values. I hope this help George |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: town
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Thanx everybody!
I've checked all the regulators. Seemed O.K. The laser is working, but can't read the disk & some strange noise comes from the CDM-1. gaborka |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: australia
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Hi
Please see my reply to thread "Philips CD304 - noise problem" I also had a problem where no audio now fixed. I've had the 304 since new when they first came out Regards |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Italy, Genova
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Hallo,
me too got a 304MkII. It's a tank, indeed. But while "sometimes" starts spinning and sounding, most of times it refuses to read the TOC. Once started it sounds quite fine. One time it stopped by itself Should I look for bad soldering joints and replace Caps? Is it a good idea to replace PSU caps with bigger ones? Perhaps bypassed by quicker ones?? TIA, Stefano |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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I'm working on several of these players and i discover that a lot of soldering is bad. especially around hot components. The pertinax print shows clearly where it becomes hot by blackening. Allso the ic's on the cooling element (left front) need to be resoldered.
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Italy, Genova
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Hi,
thanks for the hint! I'll look for such bad joints on my PCBs Ciao, Stefano |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: GD
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I'm searching it too!
I have a CD304,but it doesn't work.so i want to fix it .help me ! |
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