Hello everyone, I just finished upgrading a bunch of capacitors and bypassed the headphone output PCB in my 30GB 5.5G ipod video.
The schematic I show is the headphone board, a paper like cable with SMT components, including the 1/8 inch jack, clicker, and hold switch. Then there is this strange very tiny 6 pin IC with the number TDF6 on it.
This looks like some kind of muting circuit, or stereo effect circuit, but what is it really?
I need to know because after two weeks of bypass modding I get no power at all, it won't even charge or show up on the PC. Before bypassing this output circuit I had the ipod working with some better capacitors in the DAC and in the power supply, and it sounded epic!
I would really like to know what this TDF6 IC is if anyone can find a data sheet or cross reference to this IC that would be really useful.
The schematic I show is the headphone board, a paper like cable with SMT components, including the 1/8 inch jack, clicker, and hold switch. Then there is this strange very tiny 6 pin IC with the number TDF6 on it.
This looks like some kind of muting circuit, or stereo effect circuit, but what is it really?
I need to know because after two weeks of bypass modding I get no power at all, it won't even charge or show up on the PC. Before bypassing this output circuit I had the ipod working with some better capacitors in the DAC and in the power supply, and it sounded epic!
I would really like to know what this TDF6 IC is if anyone can find a data sheet or cross reference to this IC that would be really useful.
Attachments
not sure of the actual model number of the chip for use in other hardware (or even if it IS used in other hardware) but it is for recognizing the headphones are plugged in. if you are using the lineout jack (much better sound than HP, especially with caps bypassed) and then plug in your HP into the HP jack, it will automatically switch to the HP out. this chip controls relay, in fact it may just BE a relay
Thanks for the response, it would be useful to see a diagram or drawing of some sort for what you have just explained as I am a bit confused.
Sadly the ipod is fried now, something created a short in the power supply around the battery power area. Puts no stress on the battery as it seems to be a separate supply rail or something, but non the less, there is a dead short between + and -.
I think I wired something wrong or had a jumped solder joint and fried the power supply when I plugged the ipod into the computer to see if it would show up in itunes or in the desktop icon section in the bottom right corner.
Removing all of the parts I installed and checking for jumped solder joints didn't do any help either. So the short must be in some kind of crazy IC.
If only apple would release the schematic for the 30GB 5.5G ipod then maybe I could find the bad component, LOL.
Luckily this ipod was on it's last life anyways, I bought it used for 80 bucks a year ago and used it until the headphones jack and battery started getting really cranky, so not a huge loss as I also have a nano.
So now I must hunt for another used 30GB ipod worth while modding, this time being much more careful with parts installation.
Sadly the ipod is fried now, something created a short in the power supply around the battery power area. Puts no stress on the battery as it seems to be a separate supply rail or something, but non the less, there is a dead short between + and -.
I think I wired something wrong or had a jumped solder joint and fried the power supply when I plugged the ipod into the computer to see if it would show up in itunes or in the desktop icon section in the bottom right corner.
Removing all of the parts I installed and checking for jumped solder joints didn't do any help either. So the short must be in some kind of crazy IC.
If only apple would release the schematic for the 30GB 5.5G ipod then maybe I could find the bad component, LOL.
Luckily this ipod was on it's last life anyways, I bought it used for 80 bucks a year ago and used it until the headphones jack and battery started getting really cranky, so not a huge loss as I also have a nano.
So now I must hunt for another used 30GB ipod worth while modding, this time being much more careful with parts installation.
I should have done as you suggested actually, I could have just left the battery out and connected it to my 5V power adapter to test it, I should have also tested it without the headphone connector to see if it would even power on before removing and replacing parts.
I will see if I can get another dying 30GB ipod to work on, even if the hard drive is dead or the display is damaged, if it the same model as the one I have I can just switch parts.
I will see if I can get another dying 30GB ipod to work on, even if the hard drive is dead or the display is damaged, if it the same model as the one I have I can just switch parts.
I was able to buy a brand new ipod Video 30GB 5.5G from a friend, he bought it from some one else but the battery was not charged long enough so it would not hold any charge, about 20 minutes at most.
I did the components transfer with much success, but this time I left the old headphones socket and relay board inside the case all intact. I bypassed it at the output capacitors which are now 330MFD 6.3V Nichicon audio grade types with 1MFD film caps.
This ipod is really bulky, but it has really good battery life, so good I can't even make an estimate yet, but I was able to recharge the over sized lithium ion battery to about 70-75% (I removed it to see how full it got then plugged it back in and it stopped charging it). I measured 4.12 volts, which is not too bad, considering I had it charging for about 4-5 hours (takes about one or two full hours to charge an ipod video to 100% normally).
As for the resulting sound, I was stunned to hear greater over all detail of all my music, deeper much more firm bass, likely due to having a total of 1600MFD worth of filter caps in the power supply now. It seemed like a wall of fog was removed from the audio, even while watching movies everything just seemed to sound clearer and more defined!
I will post some pictures of the component layout, if anyone tries these mods, DO NOT remove the output board connector, you will likely end up with jumpered solder connections unless you have a really needle fine tipped soldering iron. Although the ipod will run without the headphone relay board so it could be left out.
The only problem I have now is noise from the hard drive and CPU, I have not yet found a good ground spot for the bypassed HP jack, right now I have it on the power ground but when there is audio or music, you can't really notice the noise unless you have really sensitive ear buds.
I did the components transfer with much success, but this time I left the old headphones socket and relay board inside the case all intact. I bypassed it at the output capacitors which are now 330MFD 6.3V Nichicon audio grade types with 1MFD film caps.
This ipod is really bulky, but it has really good battery life, so good I can't even make an estimate yet, but I was able to recharge the over sized lithium ion battery to about 70-75% (I removed it to see how full it got then plugged it back in and it stopped charging it). I measured 4.12 volts, which is not too bad, considering I had it charging for about 4-5 hours (takes about one or two full hours to charge an ipod video to 100% normally).
As for the resulting sound, I was stunned to hear greater over all detail of all my music, deeper much more firm bass, likely due to having a total of 1600MFD worth of filter caps in the power supply now. It seemed like a wall of fog was removed from the audio, even while watching movies everything just seemed to sound clearer and more defined!
I will post some pictures of the component layout, if anyone tries these mods, DO NOT remove the output board connector, you will likely end up with jumpered solder connections unless you have a really needle fine tipped soldering iron. Although the ipod will run without the headphone relay board so it could be left out.
The only problem I have now is noise from the hard drive and CPU, I have not yet found a good ground spot for the bypassed HP jack, right now I have it on the power ground but when there is audio or music, you can't really notice the noise unless you have really sensitive ear buds.
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