Philips cd-471 mods

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Hi,

I found a philips cd-471 at the thrift for silly money.
Always fun for some tweaking.
The player has a 4/19 mechanism and tda1541A dac.
I want to do this step by step.The player is not standard anymore.

Already changed:
* Psu diodes for BYV96-200
* Op-amps Opa2604/Opa2134/Ad826
* Psu caps Rubycon zl/panasonic fc
* muting transistors are removed
* 47 uf/16v caps around the dac changed for Sanyo oscon sp
* Saa7220p/A changed for Saa7220p/B
* 4 caps panasonic fm by opamps
* Copper foil on the chips
* Psu with super reg for Saa7220p/B
* Psu with super reg for tda 1541A dac
* Damping the player with bitumen


The player sounds a lot better with these mods.
The last mod where the Sanyo oscon's and this was giant step forward.
I want to do more mods to this player. I found a couple of more mods:

* Changing output caps for mkp/mkt
* Dem cap 470pf polystyrene on tda 1541A
* Disable the headphone circuit
* Changing rca connectors
* Psu with super reg for a low jitter clock
* Psu with super reg for 7210
* Changing Oscon sp 47uf/16v for Oscon sepc polymer 470uf/16V
* Changing Panasonic FM 47uf/16v for Rubycon ZLG 470uf/16v


Forgot something?
I'll take some pictures.
 
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Probably the B version comes with the more exotic and top line players?
Anyway it's was difficult to put the chip in place with those tiny pins.:bawling:
But the sound is better with the B chip. ;)
Here 2 pics of the player (standard)
 

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It sounds like you've covered the basic improvements pretty well, and the list you posted looks good, you're heading in the right direction. I have a few comments:

- Replacing the TDA1541A's many surface mount decoupling capacitors is worthwhile, they directly effect the sound, but not very dramatically. I recommend using polyphenylene sulphide (PPS) film capacitors, you can get these in 1206 and 1210 size package which will fit the PCB, much neater and more mechanically stable than tacking on leaded components. I've attach an image of this done on a TDA1541A based player.

- You didn't specifically mention it, but it sounds like you might be thinking of installing a low noise clock. That's definitely a good idea, it's one of the single biggest upgrades you can make to almost any player. It's best to get one with its own power supply (preferably including its own mains transformer), as half of the effect of a new clock is removing the power supply noise it makes so that it no longer effects the rest of the player.

- If you install copper foil over the ICs, don't forget to couple it to ground. I'd connect them to the ground plane through low value ceramic capacitors.

- Another thing to think about is damping. I don't have much of an opinion on it, but some players see improvement through damping their flimsy sheet metal cases.

- Yet another thing to think about is alternative output stages. There are lots of designs out there, using vacuum tubes and discrete solid state. It's a big modification, a lot of time and effort is involved, but the results are very good. I've tried a tube output stage, and I was pretty happy (see attached image).
 

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It sounds like you've covered the basic improvements pretty well, and the list you posted looks good, you're heading in the right direction. I have a few comments:

- Replacing the TDA1541A's many surface mount decoupling capacitors is worthwhile, they directly effect the sound, but not very dramatically. I recommend using polyphenylene sulphide (PPS) film capacitors, you can get these in 1206 and 1210 size package which will fit the PCB, much neater and more mechanically stable than tacking on leaded components. I've attach an image of this done on a TDA1541A based player.

- You didn't specifically mention it, but it sounds like you might be thinking of installing a low noise clock. That's definitely a good idea, it's one of the single biggest upgrades you can make to almost any player. It's best to get one with its own power supply (preferably including its own mains transformer), as half of the effect of a new clock is removing the power supply noise it makes so that it no longer effects the rest of the player.

- If you install copper foil over the ICs, don't forget to couple it to ground. I'd connect them to the ground plane through low value ceramic capacitors.

- Another thing to think about is damping. I don't have much of an opinion on it, but some players see improvement through damping their flimsy sheet metal cases.

- Yet another thing to think about is alternative output stages. There are lots of designs out there, using vacuum tubes and discrete solid state. It's a big modification, a lot of time and effort is involved, but the results are very good. I've tried a tube output stage, and I was pretty happy (see attached image).

Thanks for your input!

I´ve got several wima mks caps for the tda decoupling, but they are to big.
The mainboard don´t fit anymore, the caps touching the bottom case. :bawling:
A solution is to saw a hole in the bottom at the place of the tda.
But these pps caps are a good replacement! What brand are they and sounds it better like wima,vishay, etc?

About the clock...i got also a shigaclone with a trichord clock 4 with psu (black gate caps). I can use this clock for a little test.

What value did you use for grounding the copper shield or isn't important?

I want to build several psu's (pre-regs) with super regs for feeding several chips like the saa7220p/b, tda1541A,saa7210,maybe the clock.
So i need the space in the player, because i want all the components in the player. It's probably imposable but i give it a try with several toroids (30va/50va).
 
But these pps caps are a good replacement! What brand are they and sounds it better like wima,vishay, etc?

PPS capacitors are really good, probably somewhere between MKT and MKP. They have both low leakage current, ESR, ESL and DF, so they're ideal for the application. Just keep an eye on the voltage rating. I used AVX made ones, but both Panasonic and Cornell Dubilier make them as well.

What value did you use for grounding the copper shield or isn't important?

I don't think shielding the ICs is important at all, but just use whatever ceramic capacitors you have lying around.

So i need the space in the player, because i want all the components in the player.

The CD471 isn't a crowded case, but it isn't exactly empty either. There is space above the mainboard, but I would hesitate to put a transformer there. Maybe think about making an external case. My favourite TDA1541A player (a Mission PCM II) uses an external clock, in a lot of players there's simply not enough space.

As a matter of interest, what make are your tube buffers and where are they available ?

The tube buffers are my own design. I have a few PCBs and parts left over, PM me if you want to know more. I realised those photos are quite old, I've posted a more up to date image.
 

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I need a little help please...

I want to put a new psu with the burson audio super reg.
I´ve got a build psu from my shigaclone to test it and i want to feed the Saa7220p/B separately with the new psu.
But i don't exactly where to put 5v line into the saa7220p/B chip.
Can someone tell me where i have to look?

Thanks.
 
Today i spent a little time at my cd-471..
I put copperfoil on the 3 biggest chips and couple it to ground with ceramics caps.
I tought it was voodoo to put some coppershield on the chips... but i must admit, that it works very well!
The dynamics seems to be improved. I'm happy with it! :cool:
 
I drew up a diagram on how to connect an external power supply to the SAA7220, it's a pretty easy job. A couple of caveats though:

- Make sure your supply is actually putting out +5VDC, or at least very close to that.
- The SAA7220 is going to burn through 180mA while operating, make sure your supply can actually handle that.
 

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I drew up a diagram on how to connect an external power supply to the SAA7220, it's a pretty easy job. A couple of caveats though:

- Make sure your supply is actually putting out +5VDC, or at least very close to that.
- The SAA7220 is going to burn through 180mA while operating, make sure your supply can actually handle that.


This is great! Thanx.
I'm gonna start with a standard lm7805. after that i have some burson audio super reg for further improvement. Maybe i put a alwsr super reg on this chip.
I want to put seperate toroids for the chips like saa7220p/b, saa7210, tda1541A. I'm searching for 30 or 50 va toroids because this fit into the case.
Probably is 2 toroids the max for this player, but i have to measure that.

Capacitor 2605 is already changed for a sanyo oscon 47uf/16v.
Is this good enough? I have some panasonic fc/fm lying around.

pics later...
 
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This is only test setup. I need to rebuild the circuit a lot smaller.
Next step is a second psu for the saa7210 or tda1541A.
It plays already very nice. :cool:
 

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It's just as much about improving the supply to the rest of the player. The SAA7220 is a power hungry IC and very noisy, and tends to contaminate the power supply to the rest of the player. Did you actually do much of a comparison Magura?

By the way SoNic_real_one, you have a lot of harsh words about the SAA7220, especially its jitter performance. What measurements are you basing your criticism on?
 
You are sure that you did hear improvements or it is just a wishfull autosugestion?
SAA7220 is a crappy/jittery OS/filter cip by today standards, I cannot see how you can improve it with just a power supply.
I can admit something like that for the TDA1541... but even there I would be doubtfull.

Hi,

Yes, it´s not a totally different sound but more subtle improvement.
With the shiga clone psu´s i noted differences like more "relaxed" sound.
So i build a psu with a low noise super reg to test it with this player.
 
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