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Old 27th February 2011, 07:35 AM   #21
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Smile working

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomo View Post
LOL. Strange, I've done it a few times now. My CD17 runs a fully discrete I/V and output stage.

Index of /images/Marantz CD17

Cheers, Lee.
Hi Lee,
From the picture and comparing with the service manual I concluded you removed all components connected to the internal opamps.

I gave it a try and it works indeed with external opamps of my choice, thanks!


I am still interested what you were using as IV.
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Old 30th March 2011, 05:44 AM   #22
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Question IV

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It was a few years ago, but I'll see if I can dig it out. No promises tho, I may not have it.

Cheers, Lee.
Hi Lee, Perhaps you can elaborate a bit about which type of IV-converter you were using.
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Old 30th March 2011, 07:01 AM   #23
Thomo is offline Thomo  United Kingdom
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Hi. I can't find the schematic anywhere now.

I designed it myself and from what I remember it was based on this.

However, I'm sure I removed the filters from the inputs and placed one per channel on the output. I then used an extra single-fet buffer to drive the output.

Sorry I can't be of more help.

Lee.
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Old 30th March 2011, 06:35 PM   #24
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Many thanks Lee
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Old 30th March 2011, 09:37 PM   #25
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Oscon SEPC are a must on the digital rails in these players, the details are improved quite a bit. Dc blocking caps are not needed either.

Also replacing those samwah will bring big gains (I have issues with those caps )

Brent
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Old 7th May 2013, 08:30 PM   #26
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I have a problem with this player on the muting circuit but is not related to the 4 output transistors muting but something that acts on the 2114 ic.
Sometimes just turned on is fine for a few minutes ....... then the sound starts to crackle on both channels and the level drops until almost disappear
Can anyone explain the functioning and utility of the command "P-OFF" (I think that's giving me problems ....... C814 on LPS 5v?)

Thanks and sorry for my english.
Giuseppe.

at
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Old 7th May 2013, 09:13 PM   #27
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P.S. In the mod are not used (in the dac and psu) a bypass caps ....... deliberately?
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Old 9th May 2013, 10:54 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by ucciopino View Post
P.S. In the mod are not used (in the dac and psu) a bypass caps ....... deliberately?
I did fit a load of 100nF bypass caps - and I ran into a problem, which I thought had been caused by the addition of these caps, but I had splashed solder on the PCB - I only saw this *after* removing all the 100nF caps!!!

I never did refit them...
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Old 11th May 2013, 05:24 AM   #29
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Thanks Tony ..... for all.
The service manual i need (first model KIS) is : 74CD17/92B

I bought two LME49990 to replace the 2414 (good choice?)
I go to replace (to test) the output capacitors with a 4.7 uF Mundorf Supreme (which I already have at home).
Unsure if change all capacitors considering the age of the player .......... fragile board can be a problem? ......... any advice to operate?
if I replace all capacitors with a good stuff I will not use bypass.
As soon as I have some money working on the clock.

Last edited by ucciopino; 11th May 2013 at 05:29 AM.
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Old 11th May 2013, 07:16 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by ucciopino View Post
Thanks Tony ..... for all.
The service manual i need (first model KIS) is : 74CD17/92B
I did reply to your PM - did you receive it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ucciopino View Post
I bought two LME49990 to replace the 2414 (good choice?)
I think you mean the NJM2114? in which case you need a dual opamp - the LME49990 is a single...

Also - there's little point to fitting fancy opamps unless you bypass the HDAM stage anyway.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ucciopino View Post
I go to replace (to test) the output capacitors with a 4.7 uF Mundorf Supreme (which I already have at home).
Unsure if change all capacitors considering the age of the player .......... fragile board can be a problem? ......... any advice to operate?
if I replace all capacitors with a good stuff I will not use bypass.
As soon as I have some money working on the clock.
I used some Wima caps in the output stage of mine. 2.2u IIRC.

The schematic I have shows the output caps as 2x 220uF in series - but my player had a single 100uF. So long as you're not trying to drive a very low impedance load, 2.2uF / 4.7uF will be fine anyway.

The capacitors on mine seemed fine when I checked them. It can only be a good move to replace the ones in the digital side with Oscons anyway.

The board wasn't too bad - but if you tweak it too much, I think it may be a problem.
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