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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
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Here's a collection of Gems I could find written by the people who know about Alpha 5 CD players. :
cut the track between Pins 2 and 4 of the TDA1541a chip - WHY ? SAA 7220 removed altogether then connect 1 to 18 2 to 16 3 to 15 and a wire link between pins 9 and 11 - Is this OK and does this complete NON OS conversion - is there anything else that needs doing ?. I use Black gate n series non polar for the output couplers and take the output direct from the output of the opamps to the phono sockets bypassing all those nasty muting transistors etc - Can I really do this without bypass caps and is it safe this way ? I think it is still active when using the isolate pins 1 23 of DAC and linking 123 of filter to it.......Digital out socket - Is it still active or not ? de-emphasis cd mode is hardly used on modern cd format, why not remove the transistors that perform this function - no one actually answered this point and wonder if this is OK to do ? The opamp feedback resistor type has a big influence on the sound, it might be an idea to start here. Try 0.5W carbon from farnell or Audio Note tantalums. You can solder them directly onto the opamp pins to preserve the PCB tracks - The man who suggested this did not mention which resistors they are, not helpful to learners like me - does he mean R11 ? Which pins of the op amp does he mean please ? Any explanation welcome and indeed any useful advice too. I've trawled this site and can only find these items on this subject. Thanks Andrew |
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#2 | ||||||
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Magneto the Gravity Man
diyAudio Member
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Andy .
__________________
If it ain't broke, break it !! Then fix it again. It's called DIY ! Last edited by poynton; 20th August 2010 at 09:37 PM. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
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Andy Hi
Hallelulah - a response - really grateful ! I was beginning to think I'd written another boring post - it happens all the time. I have absolutely no luck whether on the chip amps section or this one. I'm so disillusioned with this place. So many people sign up to this, post things and then get no replies. Then you get the members who think they know but who give unintelligable answers. It's not for learners at all. Rant over Thanks for reading and for the tips. Point taken, more reading and trawling to do. I'll do the op amp direct mod and ignore any clicks - it's a cleaner route, I like that. Digi out - understood - I won't need off board dac if I do it right first time. De- emphasis - great thank you. Feedback resistors - that's what I need - straight talking. How very refreshing - just what I wanted ![]() Many thanks Andrew |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: London
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Performing the NOS mod on the SAA7220 and removing the muting transistors brings its own problems in the form of pops and clicks when idle and also track noise whilst "next-ing" or "previous-ing" or pausing. The answer here is to connect pin 23 (MUSB) of the SAA7220 to pin 18 (MUTE) of the SAA7310. This restores the player to its previous set-up, but mutes the player in the decoder rather than discretely using the transistors.
Regards Pete |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
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Ah great -thank you Chiivvyp.
And that means ( I think ) connecting pin 23 of the SAA7220 to the 7310 on the underside of the main board with a wire or is there a better way ? I would prefer to use your suggestion to eliminate the click and pops in some way. Thanks for your time on this Andrew |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: London
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Yes, just solder a wire link between the two.
Pete |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
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The Arcam Alpha 5 is a nice player, I'd get one if it came up for sale at the right price. I've got an Alpha and an Alpha Plus, which are a very similar circuit, but with totally different PCBs.
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A few things I would look into: - Installing a DEM reclocking circuit - Installing a low jitter clock - Replacing the output stage (discrete solid state or tubes), or improving the one it already has (better opamps, coupling capacitors, decoupling capacitors etc.) My only reservation about the 'NOS' mod (removing the SAA7220 digital filter) is that it will drastically increase the amount of high frequency noise the player output. You may not hear this directly, but you may cause problems in components downstream. Some amps will burn a heap of power (even to the point of destruction in very rare cases) trying as hard as they can to amplify that noise. Slew rate limiting sounds nasty. In my opinion, a lot of the benefits of the above mod comes from removing the SAA7220 from the +5V power supply rail. It's a power hungry IC, and tends to propagate a lot of noise back into the power supply, to the detriment of the rest of the player. Consider building it it's own regulator circuit and replacing its decoupling capacitor with an ultra low impedance type (like an OS-CON). Food for thought. |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Oh, and something else I remembered:
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
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Many thanks
I'll do the Q2 and Q102 plus the e emphasis mod and install the Audio GD discrete output stages that I have lying around. Do the clock and investigate the power supplies. Anyone know where the clock attaches and which parts are to come out ? I have an old Alpha CD player and absolutely love it - problem is the now very noisy transformer which drives me nuts. I was told to put new cable ties around it to tighten up the wafers but it didn't work. (the small traffo to the DAC board) Hey guys, thanks for helping me out ![]() Plenty to be thinking about Regards Andrew |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: London
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Pete |
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