Denon DCD-510AE Upgrading - diyAudio
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Old 15th July 2010, 11:00 AM   #1
Maxxtr0 is offline Maxxtr0  Germany
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Default Denon DCD-510AE Upgrading

Hello!

IŽm about to modify my Denon DCD-510AE CD-Player!

Therefor I have some questions and i hope youŽll help me

1. I will replace the four 70xx-like fixed-voltage regulators by some shunt-regulators I think, replace the two crystals by two Kwak-Clocks and remove the muting-transistors.
Is there anything else I can do at moderate costs?

2. Are there four muting-transistors? Q701, Q702, Q801, Q802? And do I only have to remove these? Or should I maybe also remove C709, C809 and R712, R812?


Greetings,
Max
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Old 15th July 2010, 04:17 PM   #2
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You will have a bigger impact if you replace the OpAmps then removing the muting transistors.
The NJM2068 that are there are better sounding than the usual NE5532, but I found out that LM4562 sound even better in there (I have some Denons that have the same PCM1791 DAC).
I have tried removing the muting part on different players and I think it is more placebo than reality...

Last edited by SoNic_real_one; 15th July 2010 at 04:24 PM.
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Old 15th July 2010, 05:12 PM   #3
Maxxtr0 is offline Maxxtr0  Germany
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Hello

What do you think of the OPA2134? Because it would be much easier to get for me than a LM4562.

And a further question: For the kwak-clock i need a J309 RF Amplifier. Does anyone know a similar Part? Because IŽm not able to find it anywhere here in Germany...
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Old 15th July 2010, 05:37 PM   #4
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I would personally go OPA2134, which remain my personal favorite opamps. I would urge, though, that you give them extra power supply filtering, in the form of a 220uf or larger, preferrably Nichicon electrolytic, paralleled with a decent size propylene or styrene film cap, from each supply pin to nearest ground. Makes a huge difference.
You can also definitely delete the output dc blocking caps, as they are totally unnecessary, since the opamp outputs should be near enough to zero volts to be perfectly fine.
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Old 15th July 2010, 05:56 PM   #5
Maxxtr0 is offline Maxxtr0  Germany
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Does removing the output caps bring any advantages? (Despite the fact, that I could use them as they are 220”F/50V Elna)
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Old 15th July 2010, 06:10 PM   #6
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I did try OPA2134 and those where ok too. Not too much difference from NJM2068 that you have... Personally I felt that LM4562 where better thou.

I don't think removing the output caps - quality ones - will increase the SQ. You can try to parallel some 0.1-0.22 uF polypropylene on them. That's easy to try. Removing them will leave DC going to the muting transistors and that could make them sound worse.
I feel that it is safer to leave them in place.

Last edited by SoNic_real_one; 15th July 2010 at 06:14 PM.
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Old 15th July 2010, 07:33 PM   #7
Maxxtr0 is offline Maxxtr0  Germany
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Okay NOW I am confused...

So the first thing i did was mounting a heatsink on the motor-driver IC
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Old 15th July 2010, 07:46 PM   #8
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That's good
Well - you have already a list. Go ahead and try those changes and try to listen to the results.
What I did on mine, I changed the OpAmp on one channel only and compared with the other. You can do the same with the output condensers or muting transistors (that's how I found that there was no difference if I removed the transistors in my Denon or Philips).
Your results might be different since it is a different player, with different amp/speakers and different set of ears
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Old 15th July 2010, 08:19 PM   #9
Maxxtr0 is offline Maxxtr0  Germany
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Okay, first results:

Excluding the noise when turning the player off, I couldnŽt realize any difference without the transistors... So i think I will just solder them back onto the PCB.

Now i will desolder one Cap... lets see


Edit: Will a LT1016 also work instead of a AD8561/Max913 for the kwak-clock?

Last edited by Maxxtr0; 15th July 2010 at 08:22 PM.
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Old 15th July 2010, 09:14 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxxtr0 View Post
Okay, first results:
Excluding the noise when turning the player off, I couldnŽt realize any difference without the transistors... So i think I will just solder them back onto the PCB.
That was exactly my experience too... A lot of people swear on this "mod" but... I guess it is just placebo.
Try bypassing the output caps with some 0.1-0.22uF ones - it's easy and should improve the high freq response. But... if the existing caps are very good, you won't hear anything. This mod it is easy to check - just solder one end and touch the other (player working) to see if you hear a difference.

Last edited by SoNic_real_one; 15th July 2010 at 09:17 PM.
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