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Old 14th April 2012, 11:44 AM   #531
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Antonio - I just read your other stuff - those boxes look beautiful.
Please let us know how the machine sounds with wood cases.
That's very interesting to me.
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Old 1st September 2012, 02:17 PM   #532
wlowes is offline wlowes  Canada
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Default Another note for the record

Earlier in this thread, I noted that I had added smt organic polymer decoupling caps (ESRD Series 7.3 x 4.3 mm 16 V 8.2 uF Polymer Aluminum Electrolytic ) directly to the 14 pins of the TDA. I had added these without removing the stock caps supplied by Arcam.

While chasing down a different issue, I removed the stock caps leaving only the SMT caps. Oh my goodness! Very strong positive move. Another layer of clarity is exposed. Started with the Tantalum. Clear change for the better. Out came the needle nose pliers and MKP extraction took about 1 minute. Anyone following the SMT cap on pin approach... do yourself a big favour and remove the stock caps and dispatch them to the dust bin.

BTW, I am picking up an Arcam Black Box Dac in a few days. Kind of for the nostalgia value since I have had so much fun abusing this alpha. One appeared for sale in my area and I have claimed it. Now continue on the look out for any thrift shop special that has the S1 or 2 chip.
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Old 11th January 2013, 02:10 PM   #533
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
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Oh my, life's been hectic with a new job, career, change of location, car and other things. The hi-fi has well and truly taken a back seat.

Now, however, I'm settling down again and had a look in my old Arcam to address the disc stopping when warmed up problem.

I took a little video for fun, but it doesn't show much!

Fault finding on highly modified Arcam Alpha cd player - YouTube
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Old 11th January 2013, 03:02 PM   #534
Thomo is offline Thomo  United Kingdom
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Is it definitely not a mechanical issue?

I've seen problems with those disc clamps before and it can sometimes help to only have one of the springs attached that pull the top flap down.

Lee.
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Old 21st February 2015, 03:18 PM   #535
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Thumbs up Schottky diods

Hi there,

could you let me know the type of the schottkys you used for the mod on the Arcam Alpha cd Player? I currently have BYD33G types in mine. They are apparently 400V, is that necessary? I have seen lots of People recomending schottky 11DQ10 wich are only 100V. Would they last or should I better use 11DQ20 (200V)?

I would be greateful for your advice.
Thank you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SimontY View Post
I changed most of the caps on the main board, and on the audio board. I changed the PSU diodes on the audio board only (schottky types). I used S Power regulation for the +5V and -15V rails for the DAC (-5V to follow). I used some old Audiocom Super Regs I had to power the RAM, digital filter, decoder and my clock, which is an Audioupgrades C1.

I used basic Sanyo os-cons for most digital decoupling, and os-con SEPC around the DAC. On the -15V rail I used Rubycon ZA.

I changed the DAC chip for a Taiwan-badged part that I think sounds better. I changed the MSB caps to 1uF, then 0.47uF for next-most-MSB.

On the servo I added 78/7912 regulators (installed flat for CDM clearance) to power the motor drive op-amp. I installed a 7912 and LM317 (configured for +12V) to power the TCA0372 (Focus drive and Radial drive op-amp). I installed a dedicated 7805 for the TDA8808/8809. I also installed decoupling caps where there were unused spaces on the PCB. Everything in this are must be quite flat to avoid fouling the mounting parts or swing-arm of the mech. See picture attached for example.
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Old 2nd April 2015, 10:13 PM   #536
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Default Still there ?

If you are still waiting.......and waiting....

11DQ10 are fine - I used uf4002 from memory.

What have you managed to do so far ?

Like it ?
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Old 2nd April 2015, 11:14 PM   #537
wlowes is offline wlowes  Canada
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Hi Andrew! We meet again.

Another suggestion. in my current DAC I am using super soft fast recovery diodes recommended by Oliver Mai in his Red Barron project. Sound is great.
Fairchild Stelth ISL9R460PF2 600V/4A/22ns Mouser 512-ISL9R460PF2
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Old 3rd April 2015, 12:27 AM   #538
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Hi Walter

Another tip from ...thank you !
I'll get a few and see what happens.

I missed all this stuff and so came back a few days ago following the purchase of an astonishingly cheap player ( actually two ) that has a chip on board that sings like a bird...in fact it's possible it's going to blow my old faithful to pieces after I've fixed a few things.

I'm getting excited all over again....which is slightly worrying !!

It always means spending money !! hahaha
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Old 3rd April 2015, 12:32 AM   #539
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that was supposed to be...another tip from you !!

Red Wine....damn stuff
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Old 3rd April 2015, 01:55 PM   #540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewGM View Post
If you are still waiting.......and waiting....

11DQ10 are fine - I used uf4002 from memory.

What have you managed to do so far ?

Like it ?
Thank you for your reply, I was not desperately waiting (-:

Until today I changed all the ELCOs on the Audio board, changed the couple caps to Nichicon Muse 100uF 25V (do not know if that was a good choice?? What do you think?) and changed the SAA7220P/B to a NOS board from NET Audio.

Is it worth changing the ELCOs on the digital board ore are they not so important?
How big an improvement should I expect changing the BYD33G to schottky 11DQ10 or the recomended Fairchild Stelth ISL9R460PF2 600V/4A/22ns Mouser 512-ISL9R460PF2 diods? The comments I have read online are not really unambilious and the BYD33G are as far as I know not bad either.

Thank you for your reply and hope to receive other good hints.
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