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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
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Hello folks,
Would anyone wish to answer my question? Which decoupling capacitors do you recommend fro pre and post regulators? I've read that Panasonic FC (pre) and Rubycon ZA (post) are the best to go for. Anyone agree/disagree or offer an alternative? Thanks. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
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C'mon folks,
I know it's not homebrew cabinets or cloned amps, but surely someone out there can post their opinion on this? There seems to be a hell of alot of questions/threads going without a single reply here, what's up with everyone? It never used to be this way. Seems folk can't be bothered to reply to little questions anymore, it used to be informative forum but now it's just a case of 'will anyone reply?' Anyhow, thanks. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Westmont, IL
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I have seen it posted several times that, at least before the regulators, the circuits prefer 'slower' caps. I suppose other parts of the circuit come into play, but there are technical explanations that are on here if you search hard enough.
I did not have great luck using Panasonic FMs before a set of regulators in my preamp. Sounded tinny to me. One commercial example would be my 20 year old Harman/Kardon CD player. When I popped the top on it, the original caps were standard, 85C Matsushita (Panasonic) before the regs and finer, audio-grade caps were used in later parts of the circuitry. Search threads for LM317, etc. to find different implementations and caps/sizes used. |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Virginia
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Quote:
Right after the rectifiers is wise to use caps with "non so small" ESR. After the regulators, on the board is where low ESR counts and needs to be. And more important, stay with the maximum voltage of the capacitors close to the voltage on the board, don't go higher just "to be safe" - ERS goes down with the maximum voltage. Last edited by SoNic_real_one; 29th March 2010 at 01:07 AM. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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I think folks have found the opposite to be true, i.e. that a somewhat higher value cap provides a better resulting power supply.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Edmonton, AB Canada
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It totally depends on what regulator IC's you are using.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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Only way to tell is to measure the output impedance of the regulator with various caps.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: UK
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It all depends - my advice is forget boutique caps after the reg. Use medium esr types and draw 300ma + standing current from the reg (for the LM317 at least). I'll tell you why later if you really want to know. The other important stuff is to precede the reg with a really low cutoff (i.e. a few Hertz) RC filter using an ultra-low ESR cap and to use a high value ultra-low low ESR cap (200-1000uF) for Cadj. The other things you see like using external Vrefs to replace the reg's internal one amount to burnishing the turd for 3 pin regs. You may as well move to Jung types at that stage.
Personally I wouldn't use 3 pin regs for anything except digital circuits and CD servo duties. Critical audio amplification and DAC circuits need Jung type regs. Last edited by Gopher; 29th March 2010 at 07:03 PM. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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For the Jung-Didden Super Regulators a ceramic or film bypass across C5 may lead to oscillation. These gentlemen measured the regulator impedance down to micro-Ohms. You'll find that careful layout, star grounding, no daisy chaining of supply rails will work more to your advantage than boutique capacitors.
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#10 | ||||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Hangzhou - Marco Polo's 'most beautiful city'. 700yrs is a long time though...
Blog Entries: 62
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When a measure becomes a target, it ceases to be a good measure. C.A.E. Goodhart |
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