Thanks, bur the problem probably existed from the day of purchase , summer 1997.
But I bought capacitors today!
I did not only buy original values, but also bought double values (47 for 22, 220 for 100 etc all 63V)
I guess there is no problem using the doubled values right from the beginning?
All trhe best,
Salar
But I bought capacitors today!
I did not only buy original values, but also bought double values (47 for 22, 220 for 100 etc all 63V)
I guess there is no problem using the doubled values right from the beginning?
All trhe best,
Salar
Wow! I was very close to write "Solved", when the X5000 started clicking. After 8 Minutes and after being cooled down to 5 degrees celsius.
Strange, isn´t it? Let´s assume I choose to live at the North Pole, I would callt this is not satisfying.
What happened so far:
I hastily bought replacment caps on Saturday, entered the shop literally 10 seconds before it closed for the weekend. But later I saw that all caps in the VFD´s power supply are Audio Grades, so I chhose the replacement caps from leftovers:
C971 is now 1000µF/63V (470µF/63V before)
C972 is now 47µF/63V (22µF/63V before)
C973 is now 470µF/63V (47µF/63V before)
C974 is now 220µF/50V (100µF/25V before)
As you can see, original C971 replaced C973, C973 replaced C972.
But neverheless an improvement. Clicking has gone after half an hour and the enclosure still feels a little bit cold to the touch.
But strange it played about 8 Min. without clicking directly after being switched on.
I did not measure ripple yet. I am not very experienced with scopes.
Where sould i place the probe and what values should I choose on the scope?
Thanks a lot so far,
Salar
Strange, isn´t it? Let´s assume I choose to live at the North Pole, I would callt this is not satisfying.
What happened so far:
I hastily bought replacment caps on Saturday, entered the shop literally 10 seconds before it closed for the weekend. But later I saw that all caps in the VFD´s power supply are Audio Grades, so I chhose the replacement caps from leftovers:
C971 is now 1000µF/63V (470µF/63V before)
C972 is now 47µF/63V (22µF/63V before)
C973 is now 470µF/63V (47µF/63V before)
C974 is now 220µF/50V (100µF/25V before)
As you can see, original C971 replaced C973, C973 replaced C972.
But neverheless an improvement. Clicking has gone after half an hour and the enclosure still feels a little bit cold to the touch.
But strange it played about 8 Min. without clicking directly after being switched on.
I did not measure ripple yet. I am not very experienced with scopes.
Where sould i place the probe and what values should I choose on the scope?
Thanks a lot so far,
Salar
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Where you put the probe and its ground lead depends on what you want to measure, and with respect to what ground. I guess ripple is generally measured with respect to the local associated ground, so you might measure ripple at a particular chip between its supply pin and its ground pin, for example. Something like 10ms per division. If set to an appropriate DC amplitude you can get a rough idea of the significance of ripple. To measure it accurately, set for AC high amplitude per division, and reduce until the waveform is measurable. Check calibration of scope.
Alternatively, use a voltmeter on an AC setting. A true-rms voltmeter is best.
I'm trying to get into the habit of using a scope for all measurements, so I get a better idea of what kind of ripple and noise is normal.
Keep in mind when using much larger caps that the circuit must be able to cope with the extra inrush current at power-up. If it starts blowing fuses, you may have to reconsider.
Perhaps we should warn polar folk, and suggest an alternative CD player? What would be best, I wonder? If they dance to keep warm, their lives may depend on it. Like us, they've probably forgotten how to sing.
Alternatively, use a voltmeter on an AC setting. A true-rms voltmeter is best.
I'm trying to get into the habit of using a scope for all measurements, so I get a better idea of what kind of ripple and noise is normal.
Keep in mind when using much larger caps that the circuit must be able to cope with the extra inrush current at power-up. If it starts blowing fuses, you may have to reconsider.
Perhaps we should warn polar folk, and suggest an alternative CD player? What would be best, I wonder? If they dance to keep warm, their lives may depend on it. Like us, they've probably forgotten how to sing.
Hey Salar,you solved it!there is no need to test the player at 5 C°!If it works fine at around 15c° you solved the problem!!!!!I don't think that someone needs a player that is able to work fine at 5c°,or at least not me...don't you think?
Thanks
Hello il Capo!
Solved what?
All my other players, Toshiba XR-Z70 from 1984, Sony-based Nakamichi OMS-5EII from 1986, Sony DVP-S715 from 1997, Sony D-J50 from 1994, they all work fine under the same conditions! Same with CD-DVD burner. Remember Sony took about 2000$ for the X5000 from customers back in 1996 ... so i should expect some quality
Also it was 5 degrees when switching on - when the clicking started, the X5000 had heated up to around 15 degrees again.
But nevertheless, testing will proceed next winter...
Solved what?
All my other players, Toshiba XR-Z70 from 1984, Sony-based Nakamichi OMS-5EII from 1986, Sony DVP-S715 from 1997, Sony D-J50 from 1994, they all work fine under the same conditions! Same with CD-DVD burner. Remember Sony took about 2000$ for the X5000 from customers back in 1996 ... so i should expect some quality
Also it was 5 degrees when switching on - when the clicking started, the X5000 had heated up to around 15 degrees again.
But nevertheless, testing will proceed next winter...
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Hi,
i purchased another X5000 in Germany last week and arrived few minutes ago...Well,i put it in the same room of my other X5000,turned on,loaded a disc and......It doesn't have reading/clicking problems...So i can say not all units have this problem when cold.Unfortunately it has problems regarding keys (random responses when pressed) so i believe that this is a problem of almost all units.
Regards
i purchased another X5000 in Germany last week and arrived few minutes ago...Well,i put it in the same room of my other X5000,turned on,loaded a disc and......It doesn't have reading/clicking problems...So i can say not all units have this problem when cold.Unfortunately it has problems regarding keys (random responses when pressed) so i believe that this is a problem of almost all units.
Regards
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Now this is telepathy! 
I thought about resuming this thread these days 
Good to hear! With the keys, well, I do not have problems, but use them infrequently.
My proposal to check the skipping problem: We should put our X5000 main servo pcb´s (the one beneath the laser transport) on a scanner and do a 600dpi scan.
Then do a superimpose of the images to check for differences in the PCB´s layout and parts...
I thought about resuming this thread these days Good to hear! With the keys, well, I do not have problems, but use them infrequently.
My proposal to check the skipping problem: We should put our X5000 main servo pcb´s (the one beneath the laser transport) on a scanner and do a 600dpi scan.
Then do a superimpose of the images to check for differences in the PCB´s layout and parts...
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Hi Salar,
it's nice to hear you again...Well it's time to resume the thread because it is winter now,and my first unit it's not working fine.You proposal is very interesting,i really hope my father will have time to do that in our laboratory,but honestly i can't tell you exactly when.A good friend of mine,that works in another laboratory where they are specialized in repairing HI-FI and other electronic devices such as Plasma TV and in general SMD boards will have a look at my first X5000 in 3/4 weeks i hope.They have microscopes and all the necessary professional tools to repair such devices,he told he can find the problem and solve it (by freezing each component with nitrogen when the player is working...at least this is what he told me...).For the moment i can only confirm that my second X5000 is working fine,and it is in the same room of the other X5000 that has clicking problems.
Hope to let you know some news soon my friend!
it's nice to hear you again...Well it's time to resume the thread because it is winter now,and my first unit it's not working fine.You proposal is very interesting,i really hope my father will have time to do that in our laboratory,but honestly i can't tell you exactly when.A good friend of mine,that works in another laboratory where they are specialized in repairing HI-FI and other electronic devices such as Plasma TV and in general SMD boards will have a look at my first X5000 in 3/4 weeks i hope.They have microscopes and all the necessary professional tools to repair such devices,he told he can find the problem and solve it (by freezing each component with nitrogen when the player is working...at least this is what he told me...).For the moment i can only confirm that my second X5000 is working fine,and it is in the same room of the other X5000 that has clicking problems.
Hope to let you know some news soon my friend!
Aaaah... THIS is also good to hear! So I am eager to hear from you.
Just one thing about the cold/warm clicking problem:
This could be also bad solder joints, but as far as I remember, we discussed this in the beginning. I did resolder all joints on the pcb last year, but I am not sure if I resoldered the big ICs. I remember I resoldered the motor driver IC but I guess, the pins of the other IC´s were too close, risking to causing short circuits between the pins when melting the solder again. Maybe your father or friend should start with resoldering before applying nitrogen/cold air...
Just one thing about the cold/warm clicking problem:
This could be also bad solder joints, but as far as I remember, we discussed this in the beginning. I did resolder all joints on the pcb last year, but I am not sure if I resoldered the big ICs. I remember I resoldered the motor driver IC but I guess, the pins of the other IC´s were too close, risking to causing short circuits between the pins when melting the solder again. Maybe your father or friend should start with resoldering before applying nitrogen/cold air...
BTW, I will try to make a scan of the Servo PCP around Xmas.
I will not be able to scan the the spindle-Motors PCB, there are two philips screws so extremely tight, that their heads are already worn from the attempt to loosen them
Disassembly with my unit is a little more complicated because of a mod I did in the late nineties
Blue LED´s were relatively new and expensive back then. Vodooists say that blue LEDs improve sound, but it was just coincidence because white LED wre not available yet.
I am absolutely sure this mod is NOT related to the skipping problem. The LEDs run on their own power supply, can be switched off, and their ciurcuitry is completely isolated from the players circuitry,
so they do not share GND
I will not be able to scan the the spindle-Motors PCB, there are two philips screws so extremely tight, that their heads are already worn from the attempt to loosen them
Disassembly with my unit is a little more complicated because of a mod I did in the late nineties
Blue LED´s were relatively new and expensive back then. Vodooists say that blue LEDs improve sound, but it was just coincidence because white LED wre not available yet.
I am absolutely sure this mod is NOT related to the skipping problem. The LEDs run on their own power supply, can be switched off, and their ciurcuitry is completely isolated from the players circuitry,
so they do not share GND
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There is a connection missing according to the schematics. If you take a look at the keyboard printed circuit board, the open/close switch is only connected to chassis ground. There should also be a connection to logic ground on the board itself. That is pin 2 on CN853. If you have a bad chassis ground who knows what problems that would lead to. I had skipping problems today when cold. After I had lifted the cover off to have a look the player stopped working. I noticed that the lead to chassis ground had come off at the soldering end, and that of course prevented the player from working. It struck me that this could have caused the skipping right before the lead came loose. I resoldered and made a connection to logic ground on the keyboard as well. Everything fine after that.
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What I am referring to in post 216 is actually a keyboard PCB layout fault. In the other end of the lead that came loose there is a spade connection to chassis ground. That spade goes into a screwed connection to chassis ground. The signal here is highly dependent on how good that screwed connection is. This is a serious production fault. This signal also goes to Q 601 that controls the power to the laser. Making a connection to logic ground will make that signal independent of the quality of chassis ground. Hope this information is helpful to those that experience skipping on this wonderful player
Wow! I did resolder the wire at the soldering end some years ago because it became loose during many times of assembling disassembling. Always thought it was an safety connection to discarge static electricity - never thought that the switch would not have any connection to circuit ground at all without the wire.
I remember that many times the lid´s open/close switch did not react before I did resolder the wire and even replaced the switch.
The schematics state alls switches on the board share circuit ground and connection to chassis ground.
But not in real life... I do not have the time today but will do fix this error tomorrow. Hope this will be the end of our search...
BTW, none of the screws that provide ground connection for the circuitry have shakeproof washers to secure proper connection - not very high end
I remember that many times the lid´s open/close switch did not react before I did resolder the wire and even replaced the switch.
The schematics state alls switches on the board share circuit ground and connection to chassis ground.
But not in real life... I do not have the time today but will do fix this error tomorrow. Hope this will be the end of our search...
BTW, none of the screws that provide ground connection for the circuitry have shakeproof washers to secure proper connection - not very high end
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I did dacens fix now, the skipping/glitches have become less frequent and it seems that it takes a shorter time until the CDP-X5000 plays normally.
15 degress ambient room temperature.
On the Key Board, the schematics also show a wire connection between the grounds of switches 890 and 892, it was not present, so I did fix this as well.
What about C954 / 220pF, does this cap debounce the lid open/close switch or is it a blocking capacitor? Maybe it is prone to noise and another value would help?
15 degress ambient room temperature.
On the Key Board, the schematics also show a wire connection between the grounds of switches 890 and 892, it was not present, so I did fix this as well.
What about C954 / 220pF, does this cap debounce the lid open/close switch or is it a blocking capacitor? Maybe it is prone to noise and another value would help?
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