Sony X5000 troubleshooting

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Your english is fine :)

Don't go mad with the oil and grease... try and find the problem first. If you suspect the sled is sticking then connect a DVM across the sled motor and watch the voltage in play mode. If it suddenly rises and the sled motor doesn't turn then the sled is sticking. Typical voltages are little more than a few 10's of millivolts as the motor shuffles the sled along. Its a good and definite test.
 
@Il capo.
Thanks a lot! Do you need the Service Manual? I can send you the Circuit schematics and transport mechanism disassembly.
Now it is three DIY-Audio members having exact the same problems with the CPD-X5000, jumpin playback when cold and unresposive. I guess strongly mine were from the very beginning (Bought it new in 1997 ) but it took a cold winter after 2 years to realize...
 
Your problem with the lid switch Salar, made me look into the schematic again. Actually the signal from the lid switch goes directly to pin 45 IC201. The same lid switch signal also goes to the base of transistor Q601 just to shut down the power to the laser diode when lid is open. But the same signal is also taken from the same base of transistor Q601 and it runs trough two diodes and into IC 602 which is an ordinary 74HC04. This chip is distributing the Power On Reset coming from IC691 going into pin 1 of the 74HC04. So here we have some circuits that are common for my problem and yours Salar. I will take a shot at this again the coming week-end. As these signal are underneath the card I have to take the player apart and solder some wires to the places I want to connect the Scope probe to. There is a fault in the schematic regarding the POR chip (IC691) . Pin 4 going to electrolytic cap, C697, should go to ground. Pin 5 which is the POR output should go to where the C697 is connected. (Crossing my fingers to that we are on the right track)
 
Hmm, this sounds very promising... Sorry, I can´t be much of a help,
I am not a technician
But I was wondering all the time, why the keyboard has a ground connection via wire, it could be connected directly to the upper chassis with a simple screw
(even though the aluminum oxide gives a bit of insulation)
And -I guess-4 circuits connected to one switch with long traces , shouldn´this -at least-catch noise...?

Overall, the CDP-X5000 does not seem to have the high-endish built-quality
it states:
The design mimics small high-end companies, with 10mm thick aluminium,
but segments of the display started to fade after a relatively short time of use , a gap on the bottom behind the front panel is prone of letting dust in, the mechanism runs on plastic and on one rail only, the other carrier is a simple toy-like wheel. This wouldn´t work in space at all:)
The fixed pickup mechanismis more like a hoax to attract hifi-vodooists.
I bought my X5000 because I could get it for a third of original price,of course because of the looks and because the CD-spindle motor is probbly more durable, made of ruby bearings, as far as I remember.

Last summer, I had a friend make aluminium keys and a aluminium puck to replace the plastic keys and brass puck.
Because of the lighter aluminium, i hope motor shaft will even have lesser wear.
But I did not not use puck an keys yet, because I haven not found a company to anodize them in Sony´s colour....
All the best,
Salar
 
@Il capo.
Thanks a lot! Do you need the Service Manual? I can send you the Circuit schematics and transport mechanism disassembly.
Now it is three DIY-Audio members having exact the same problems with the CPD-X5000, jumpin playback when cold and unresposive. I guess strongly mine were from the very beginning (Bought it new in 1997 ) but it took a cold winter after 2 years to realize...

I already own the service manual,but thanks anyway...I want to be optimistic regarding the jumping playback;i don't think (hope) it is a problem of the laser pickup...if the laser pickup is faulty, reading errors will occur continuosly and for every tracks of the playing cd...as i told before,my unit is giving reading errors only for the first track of the playing cd,and disappear after 10 to 30 minutes of playback...then, if i go back to the first track i got no errors.Sounds like a problem in the transport,that after some use (movements forward and backward) it can moves smoothly.
 
@ il capo
I think, think the whole jumping problem is related to the keyboard circuitry especially the reset done by the lid switch. Why : because the skippin problem exists for years and is repeateable. I would check motor power during playback as Mooly proposed

well,honestly i can't really find any connection between reading errors and keyboard circuitry and/or reset done by the switch lid...
 
Does "10 to 30 minutes" mean sometimes 10 sometimes 30 and sometimes in between, or does it mean always some more exact time you haven't measured but guess it's somewhere between 10 and 30?

Does it play OK after that time following power-up, or does it require that time of actually playing before it's OK?

Last time I had a vaguely similar problem it turned out to be the decoder chip. When I removed it for replacement, one of it's pins fell off where it had cracked at the shoulder. Why it required play time, rather than power-up time, I don't know. Maybe it gets hotter when it's processing data.

Oddly, it could be got going almost immediately if I used the fast-forward for a few seconds, or skipped through tracks. Once it had played a track or two it was normal. If I stopped playing and left it switched on, then after a few minutes it needed jogging again.

Completely different chip, but to my mind a decoder fault is more plausible than a mechanical one related to the sled.

The idea that the play problem is related to the keyboard fault seems a long shot. Conceivably, an intermittent faulty fast-forward or backward key could lead to jumps, but I can't see how that could be cleared by playing rather than just power-on time. Between the keyboard and decoder there's a front panel controller and the system controller, presumably.

But it could be cleared by you using the keyboard for skipping tracks and then returning to the beginning...
 
Does "10 to 30 minutes" mean sometimes 10 sometimes 30 and sometimes in between, or does it mean always some more exact time you haven't measured but guess it's somewhere between 10 and 30?

Does it play OK after that time following power-up, or does it require that time of actually playing before it's OK?

Last time I had a vaguely similar problem it turned out to be the decoder chip. When I removed it for replacement, one of it's pins fell off where it had cracked at the shoulder. Why it required play time, rather than power-up time, I don't know. Maybe it gets hotter when it's processing data.

Oddly, it could be got going almost immediately if I used the fast-forward for a few seconds, or skipped through tracks. Once it had played a track or two it was normal. If I stopped playing and left it switched on, then after a few minutes it needed jogging again.

Completely different chip, but to my mind a decoder fault is more plausible than a mechanical one related to the sled.

The idea that the play problem is related to the keyboard fault seems a long shot. Conceivably, an intermittent faulty fast-forward or backward key could lead to jumps, but I can't see how that could be cleared by playing rather than just power-on time. Between the keyboard and decoder there's a front panel controller and the system controller, presumably.

But it could be cleared by you using the keyboard for skipping tracks and then returning to the beginning...

never measured...i guess it's between 10 and 30.I don't know if it plays ok after warm up without playing,because i always turn it on and put a disc to play...Anyway reading errors occur only for the first track of the disc.My idea is that at the begginnig of the disc the sled must move faster and smoother than at the end of the disc...but it's only my idea...
 
Well, at least temperature influences the skipping problem. Never have it in the summer (my apartment is under the roof and gets hot anyway), but in winter.
The Sony needs to get warm and the jumping disappears.
This takes about 15 - 20 minutes. And maybe, 15 to 20 degrees plus make the difference.

About the keyboard circuitry: As far as i understand, the closed lid puts the connected circuitry/IC pins more or less to GND, thus signaling an inserted cd and starting the player for seeking TOC.
But if this signal line is noisy, this could probably lead to dropouts? But of course, how can something be noisy when the circuitry is cold and become clean, when it is warm.
But again, I am not a technician and i might be wrong here
But also strange to me: According to the service manual, all unconnected pins of the Sony IC´s are not grounded, correct?
But I thought master rule is to connect unconnected pins to ground, to prevent noise messing the IC´s work? I.e this is what i learned
when I built my simple diy circuitries.
So is this ajor flaw in the Sony´s design or nothing to worry about?

I also thought about a faulty solder joint at one IC´s pins, but how can three owners of the CDP-X5000 have the same faulty solder joint, which also shows the same behaviour?
This fixed pickup mechnism has more mass to move. But when you turn the gears, you´ll notice, the force needed is not much. So the viscosity of grease should not make much difference.
Becaus of this consistencies I am picking on a possible flaw in the Sony´s circuitry design...
All the best,
Salar
 
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...My idea is that at the begginnig of the disc the sled must move faster and smoother than at the end of the disc...but it's only my idea...

Not true of the sled AFAIK: the close lateral tracking is done in the head using a linear motor, whereas the sled jogs occasionally. I think Sony heads are inclined to flutter but I haven't determined exactly how or why. The ones with a fixed head have an additional problem which might fit your symptoms.

Every time the sled jogs, the spindle moves the disc, but it's only holding it by the sprung or weighted contact with the boss. Consequently, any slight tilting and/or lateral misalignment of the disc allowed by seating clearances can change.

Altogether, if the problem is mechanical "stiction", it could be in the head or sled. The clamping mechanism could also be the culprit, but I can't see how this could be directly related to temperature.
 
Dears PlasticIsGood
so you think the brass puck gives too much play?. Don´t think so,
I can´t move it a bit horizontally or tilt it´s angle with a CD beneath it.
I even had a lighter aluminium puck milled, with almost half of the weight, no difference.

Dear gmphadhe,
If the bearings were worn out, the problem would persist all the time playing a disc. I doesn´t . And disappears after warming up.
This would also mean I bought my CDP-X5000 brand new in 1997 with already worn out bearings.
All the best,
Salar