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#71 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Dona paula, Goa
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#72 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germany
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Dear Gajanan, show me what you mean with "arc", Iīd loved to be teached :-)
What I found out this morning: I did warm up the player with a hairdryer , not much, especially (but not only) the area close to the KSS-274 laser. No jumping, (as expected, like with earlier tests ) So maybe the laser is prone to cold but iīll have to repeat this tomorrow (Donīt heat my house during the night) So tomorrow I will only warm up the laser and try to keep other parts cold. A freezer spray might not help, because it could produce residues in the laser. Donīt think it is a weak diode, because this problem exists from the beginning. Could be a sticky pole. As far as I understand BA6297AFP drives also the KSS coils and is connected directly to them. So probably no bad engineering there. All the best, Salar Last edited by Salar; 15th February 2013 at 09:14 AM. |
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#73 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Well the player has started to fail on power up again. I am going to put back the 330 ohm (JW 600) as this is obviously not causing this problem. The next step is to try to increase the power on reset timing. This is to give the powersupply more time to reach the desired output before the digital circuits are enabled. Increase C697 to around 6-7uF pin 4 IC691.
Power on reset. I will certainly advice when I know the outcome of this modification. |
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#74 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germany
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Great! I will keep 10ohm and warm up the laser tomorrow morning prior to switching on in order check wether the laser is prone to cold...
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#75 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Bradford
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Quote:
Strictly speaking, although the driving force is linear, movemement is in arcs. Note the Toshiba in my Avatar is lighter, cheaper, and much more elegant, with a much better two-axis plastic spring. Pic is of KSS190A, but I think other Sonys are similar. Last edited by PlasticIsGood; 15th February 2013 at 07:56 PM. |
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#76 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germany
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Good old times - KSS-123A from 1987. No plastic.
One of my best trackers is a Toshiba XR-Z70. Made my test, heating only the laser for 15 seconds. Of course the heat gets into the CDP-X5000īs cabinet, but the CD-compartment (made of metal) was cold to the touch again after another 15 seconds. No skipping. So maybe the laser is prone to cold... |
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#77 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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I've had one case (KSS210) where the centre bearing was "sticky". If that is a problem then its difficult to correct because the lens suspension is a synthetic neoprene type contraption and is easily damaged if you try and detach it from under the lens in order to lift it clear. I suppose you could try "washing" it through with single drops of ISO on the centre shaft.
Unless that is the problem it would be easy to make things worse.
__________________
------------------------------------------------------- A simulation free zone. Design it, build it, test it. |
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#78 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germany
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Hmm - sticky in horizontal movement only, with rythmical clicks every 2seconds, and by reaching about 30 degrees centigrade, stickyness is gone...
Shouldnīt be the clicking more erratic if the pole piece was sticky? And independent of temperature? All the best, Salar |
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#79 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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I wouldn't like to say really, not without seeing what is happening. It was just seeing that picture of the pickup that reminded me.
__________________
------------------------------------------------------- A simulation free zone. Design it, build it, test it. |
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#80 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germany
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Yes, I was told once, the KSS-123A could become sticky as well.
BTW, for those interested, those pole pieces are NEVER - and should never - be lubricated. But there is a transistor 2SB1013 on the KSS-274, maybe this is the source of fault... Last edited by Salar; 16th February 2013 at 12:10 PM. |
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