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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: singapore
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I 'd bought a philips AK601 and found it contain CDM4/19 with M50423FP driving TDA1543A.
For those who is searching high and low for the mitsubishi 's datatsheet, attach are some summary of it My question is: Which mode shall I choose, the "No interpolation" OR "Bypass filter" Mode, for outputting 1fs I2S to TDA1543A? It will be tough to modd this CD player as the Main PCB is lying below of the CDM4. The screw that they use are different from the normal X head type. Anybody have any idea do i need some special kind of screwdriver to unscrew the transport? The bottom chassis said:" CAUTION: To prevent player misoperation the two transport devices should be removed. Replace transport security devices when transporting this unit " What does it mean? |
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#2 | |||
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
BTW: the TDA1543A doesn't have I2S, does it ? At least not the standard I2S. Quote:
Quote:
![]() Fedde
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http://www.fedde.nu, gainclone and non-oversampling DAC audio projects and kits... |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Germany
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Hi tbklbl, the screws you refer to are called Torx screws. They're a pain in the b*** if you don't have the right screwdriver. Please don't use a normal one ( and damage the screws or worse ) but buy a Torx T10 ( sometimes also called TX10 ) screwdriver instead. They are not very expensive. Even better is to buy a set so you won't have any problem disassembling Philips/Marantz gear in the future. At least buy a T10 and a T15.
Torx is here to stay and it is by far better than cross/Philips/Pozidriv or even Imbus screws. When you see the newer Renault/Opel cars you'll notice that they are assembled with these kind of screws too. They are very suitable for automated assembly with a pretty low failure rate. Quote:
If you want the complete datasheet I can send it to you by mail. BTW it was sent to me by Fedde ![]() May I suggest you do a clock upgrade before fiddling with the settings of the Mitsubishi chip ? Please ground yourself when disassembling the mechanics, CDM4 is very allergic to static electricity !!
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It's only audio |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: singapore
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Hi, thanks for the advice. But here few more question:
>BTW: the TDA1543A doesn't have I2S, does it ? At least not the standard I2S. The mitsubishi specs did not elaborate the difference format on the table and i hav not really understand the different format either. I take it that TDA1543A only accept japanese i2s with audio data right-jusdtified, LSB aligned to the trailing edge of LRCLK. >If you want the complete datasheet I can send it to you by mail. BTW it was sent to me by Fedde Thanks. I managed to find the mitsubishi databook in my company office >May I suggest you do a clock upgrade before fiddling with the settings of the Mitsubishi chip ? are u referring upgrading the 8.462MHz that fed to the M50423FP with a better crystal OR reclocking the I2S clock. Can i use any of the Kwak clock or Guido Clock? > Please ground yourself when disassembling the mechanics, >CDM4 is very allergic to static electricity !! This gonna be my 1st DIY mod. If u can provide some website or instructions for me as reference that will be wonderful |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Near Gothenburg, the westcoast of Sweden
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5 years after this thread started I bought this player mainly to have a spare CDM4/19 drive to my modified Marantz CD65II.
The player isn't that bad from start so I maybe will try some "lampization" mod aka tubed outputstage. Half of the box is empty and there is plenty of room for such a projekt.Maybe I also should try my first NO OS mod? Anyhow it would be great to have the schematic, even if I use it as spare part. I don't want to pay much for it though ... I have seen them for sale at some internet places.Maybe someone have a schematic for this combo. Please PM me. Thanks.
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