Rexox B226 problems

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Hi Everyone,

I've been hunting around the web trying to find a solution to my B226 problem and stumbled across this forum- I hope someone here may be able to help me.

I bought my Revox B226 in 2006 and I absolutely love it. It's in really good condition and played CDs perfectly until it started to get fussy about what discs it would read but now it's refusing to play any- I insert a cd and press play and you can hear it spin for a while but it doesn't show track info on the display. It eventually stops spinning. 😕


Does anyone know how I could fix this? I'm not am electronics guy, just a music lover but I'm savvy with a screwdriver and have already taken the transport out to have a look at it and see if the laser had any dirt or dust on it. It appears to be clean. I believe its a 1986 model and has the CDM-1 transport. I can post a picture of the transport if anyone needs me to verify this.

Would it be a case of having to send it away to be repaired? If so, does anyone know of someone who would do this in the United Kingdom. I've already contacted Brian Reeves at revoxservice.co.uk and he said that it would have to go back to the factory for repair- I think he only repairs tape recorders.

I hope someone on the forum can give me some guidance.

Thanks,
Tim
 

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In my experience, only two things go wrong with the B226- either loading frame warpage/cracks causing disc-clamp holder mis-alignment(easy adjustment), or electrolytic caps(almost always Philips, Siemens & Roederstein) going bad. Particularly look for blue plastic-wrapped Philips lytics in the servo area. Just replace them where you find them, as they are always bad or going bad by now.
 
In my experience, only two things go wrong with the B226- either loading frame warpage/cracks causing disc-clamp holder mis-alignment(easy adjustment), or electrolytic caps(almost always Philips, Siemens & Roederstein) going bad. Particularly look for blue plastic-wrapped Philips lytics in the servo area. Just replace them where you find them, as they are always bad or going bad by now.

Hi Stephen,

Thanks for your response. Is it easy to tell if the loading frame is warped and the disc clamp is miss-aligned? Is re-alignment something I could do without any specialist tools?

Also, the capacitors you are referring too, what board are they on, ie- what circuitry are they part of? Is it the CD drive board? I have a complete circuit diagram of the player that came with the manual and am competent with a soldering iron; it might be that I could replace these myself.

Regards, Tim
 
Sorry Stephen, you said the servo area. Apologies.

In my experience, only two things go wrong with the B226- either loading frame warpage/cracks causing disc-clamp holder mis-alignment(easy adjustment), or electrolytic caps(almost always Philips, Siemens & Roederstein) going bad. Particularly look for blue plastic-wrapped Philips lytics in the servo area. Just replace them where you find them, as they are always bad or going bad by now.
 
The CDM1 has 5 16v/33uF caps. I replaced mine with Sanyo OsCon to cure a 'lazy laser'.

As said the duff ones will be philips brand and have a blue semi transparent plastic covering.

Suitable replacement (which will be an upgrade over the original too!!) HERE at Farnell uk Sanyo OsCon SC16v/33uF

If you are going to take on the job yourself, you need to make sure you do not move the 3 variable resistors on the pcb. You need remember the board and ribbons are 25 years old and are fragile.

Attached picture of the cap locations I tool after changing mine.
 

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The teflon screw in the lower tuntable motor bearing wears, then the disc sits too low in the mechanism for the focus servo to lock.
This makes it fussy with some discs, and also shows up as a reluctance to skip directly to high track nmbers.

The best fix it to replace the screw, but a fraction of a turn inward will fix it almost as well.
You need to do this with the player in the normal working position: under the transport is a small access panel that must be opened to get at the motor.
Ideally you should do this with a calibration disc and while watching the focus error signal on an oscilloscope, but you may have good results just doing it by trial & error with your most problematic disc.
 
The teflon screw in the lower tuntable motor bearing wears, then the disc sits too low in the mechanism for the focus servo to lock.
This makes it fussy with some discs, and also shows up as a reluctance to skip directly to high track nmbers.

The best fix it to replace the screw, but a fraction of a turn inward will fix it almost as well.
You need to do this with the player in the normal working position: under the transport is a small access panel that must be opened to get at the motor.
Ideally you should do this with a calibration disc and while watching the focus error signal on an oscilloscope, but you may have good results just doing it by trial & error with your most problematic disc.

Hi Steerpike,

is the panel you are referring to the access panel that's on the underside of the CD players outer box, held in place by two screws? the view I get when I remove this panel is the same as the image that UV101 kindly attached to his post above. I can see the motor and the two allen key type bolts that hold it in place on a removable mount, I can also see the torx type bolt head that attaches the motor to the mount, but I can't see a teflon screw anywhere. can you give me any further indication as to where this is?

Regards, Tim
 
I guess you found it! The Torx or Hex screw right in the centre of the disc spindle motor. Maybe it's actually nylon or even some other exotic plastic.

Yeah, it was the torx head bolt. I wasn't too sure as it was a dark grey colour- I wasn't sure if it was that one as I presumed Teflon parts were always white. I think I was getting Teflon confused with Nylon 😱 UV101 has a CDM-1 service manual on his website. It's in German but has an exploded diagram, so I used this to double check.

It's playing all the discs I've tested so far, though it does take a while to register some, a few take a couple of attempts. It will need fine tuning at some point. Thanks to both of you for your help 😛
 
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