This is my first post here and I hope that someone can help me figure out what is wrong with my CD player. It's an older Rotel RCD-971 that I bought used on another site last year at a very good price. I've only played it about 10-15 hours as I've been putting together my system.
Today, after playing as usual with no problem, I changed the CD and suddenly the loading tray refuses to stay closed and the machine won't read any disc. The tray closes, there's a "00" reading in the display and then the tray re-opens. It won't stay closed without a disc in it either. The only way to keep it closed is to hit the close button and then turn it off as soon as it's shut. It is firmly shut when it does close though.
I unplugged it for a couple of hours and tried again, same thing happened. It doesn't seem to be the tray gear as it opens and closes smoothly with no slack in it, it just won't stay closed. I like the sound of this player, unmodded as it is, but I'm wondering if it's repairable or not. All advice greatly appreciated.
Dave
Today, after playing as usual with no problem, I changed the CD and suddenly the loading tray refuses to stay closed and the machine won't read any disc. The tray closes, there's a "00" reading in the display and then the tray re-opens. It won't stay closed without a disc in it either. The only way to keep it closed is to hit the close button and then turn it off as soon as it's shut. It is firmly shut when it does close though.
I unplugged it for a couple of hours and tried again, same thing happened. It doesn't seem to be the tray gear as it opens and closes smoothly with no slack in it, it just won't stay closed. I like the sound of this player, unmodded as it is, but I'm wondering if it's repairable or not. All advice greatly appreciated.
Dave
I checked out the schematic that I was alerted to by a generous DIY member and it seems that it does have a belt in the tray mechanism. Funnily enough after leaving it unplugged for several hours, the tray operated normally when I plugged it back in!
I havn't played anything on it yet but aim to do so later this week after re-assembling my system.
If it is the belt, I'm not expert enough to replace it and my local tech would charge me as much or more than the purchase price I originally paid ($200). I really don't want to get rid of it because it sounds great but if it acts up again I may have to reconsider.....
Many thanks to those who replied to this message, much appreciated!
I havn't played anything on it yet but aim to do so later this week after re-assembling my system.
If it is the belt, I'm not expert enough to replace it and my local tech would charge me as much or more than the purchase price I originally paid ($200). I really don't want to get rid of it because it sounds great but if it acts up again I may have to reconsider.....
Many thanks to those who replied to this message, much appreciated!
Thanks Bill, Mooly. My question is, what do I do with teh mechanism once I get it out! I have zero experience in electronics but if it is a mechanical issue I'm willing to give it a go.
BTW, teh $200 was based on $50 for the initial examination plus parts and maybe a couple of hours of the tech's time to fix it. He suggested I contact the closest Rotel dealer, which I did, and he said $50 as well for the first examination, credited towards a possible repair which might go up to $200 or more. He then tries to sell me the latest $1k Rotel CD player!
I'd really like to keep this player, right now I'm using a modded PS1 which sounds great but I like to sound of the 971.
BTW, teh $200 was based on $50 for the initial examination plus parts and maybe a couple of hours of the tech's time to fix it. He suggested I contact the closest Rotel dealer, which I did, and he said $50 as well for the first examination, credited towards a possible repair which might go up to $200 or more. He then tries to sell me the latest $1k Rotel CD player!
I'd really like to keep this player, right now I'm using a modded PS1 which sounds great but I like to sound of the 971.
It's been a while since I posted here are the problem with the Rotel 971 took a back seat to other concerns. I recently came across an acrchived for sale posting on head-fi.org for athe same model and the poster mentioned that he had resolved a similar problem with his 971. To quote:
"The only problems I've ever had with it was a few years ago when it didn't want to stay closed and start reading the TOC. It turned out to be the small switch which tells the drive it is closed had become misaligned so I fixed it and no problems since.
The small micro switch which tells the sled motor that the tray has fully closed wasn't conducting every time. *It has a thin plastic extension which bends with age. *All that was needed was to add some material to the plastic extension to make sure the switch conducted when the tray was closed. I'm not 100% sure what I used. It was some small piece of plastic and I attached either with some superglue or blutac. The hard part is getting at the switch though... "
My question is whether this solution is something a newb at DYI can do or should I take it to a tech? I have the service manual which shows how to disassemble the unit but I'm a bit concerned that this may be way beyond my skill level. All advice appreciated....
"The only problems I've ever had with it was a few years ago when it didn't want to stay closed and start reading the TOC. It turned out to be the small switch which tells the drive it is closed had become misaligned so I fixed it and no problems since.
The small micro switch which tells the sled motor that the tray has fully closed wasn't conducting every time. *It has a thin plastic extension which bends with age. *All that was needed was to add some material to the plastic extension to make sure the switch conducted when the tray was closed. I'm not 100% sure what I used. It was some small piece of plastic and I attached either with some superglue or blutac. The hard part is getting at the switch though... "
My question is whether this solution is something a newb at DYI can do or should I take it to a tech? I have the service manual which shows how to disassemble the unit but I'm a bit concerned that this may be way beyond my skill level. All advice appreciated....
I've had mine apart a few times, no big secrets, just don't force anything. Oh, there is one secret if you go as far as removing the spring suspension, the front and back springs are different strength so pay attention. I don't think you have to go that far anyway. The tray front snaps off of the tray so you can remove the tray.
I'm not sure I understand Bill. Do I need to change the whole laser mechanism to fix that tray switch?
Dave
Hello,
I have RDC-951 with exactly the same symptoms. After reading this thread I was inspired to finally repair it. So I took it apart spent an hour trying to understand how the loading mechanism work. And sure enough - it's the belt problem. At the last phase, where it pulls the laser unit up, it starts slipping and doesn't get the the point where "loaded" switch is triggered.
Now the question:
WHERE I can get the replacement belt ?
Is this is something standard or only Rotel can give me one ?
Sincerely, M.
I have RDC-951 with exactly the same symptoms. After reading this thread I was inspired to finally repair it. So I took it apart spent an hour trying to understand how the loading mechanism work. And sure enough - it's the belt problem. At the last phase, where it pulls the laser unit up, it starts slipping and doesn't get the the point where "loaded" switch is triggered.
Now the question:
WHERE I can get the replacement belt ?
Is this is something standard or only Rotel can give me one ?Sincerely, M.
I fixed and then modified 971 long time ago.... clock, silver ribbons, power supply for clock, Black Gates, direct current-out feed from PCM63's straight to I/V resistors...WIMA coupling caps at the output and AD826… not bad at the end.
I remember that mechanism had to drop in to players' extruded metal frame to eject and load the CD. The hight was very critical so the springs had to be adjusted and tightened just right. Also, if anyone's replacing the CD mechanism - do not forget to remove the solder blob from the laser pickup...
The guy I did the repair and mods was very happy with the end result. The CD player had firm and well defined sound that only current-out PCM63's can deliver. This is why the WIMA’s worked quite well here… to bring the balance (warmth) back… I remember we experimented a lot with various IC’s 275, 826, 2132, and coupling caps we tried even Mundorfs silver-in-oil….. WIMA’s and 826 did sound best for this particular application.
Boky
I remember that mechanism had to drop in to players' extruded metal frame to eject and load the CD. The hight was very critical so the springs had to be adjusted and tightened just right. Also, if anyone's replacing the CD mechanism - do not forget to remove the solder blob from the laser pickup...
The guy I did the repair and mods was very happy with the end result. The CD player had firm and well defined sound that only current-out PCM63's can deliver. This is why the WIMA’s worked quite well here… to bring the balance (warmth) back… I remember we experimented a lot with various IC’s 275, 826, 2132, and coupling caps we tried even Mundorfs silver-in-oil….. WIMA’s and 826 did sound best for this particular application.
Boky
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I hadn't looked at this thread in a while and obviously missed some good stuff!
I ordered two new leaf switches (it has a pair according to the service manual) and a new belt from partstore.com . The switches are back ordered and not expected to ship until the end of April but I'm hoping they send the belt before then. If replacing the belt works then I'll cancel the order for the switches.
It'll be the first time I've taken apart anything like this so all advice is appreciated. Do I remove the whole tray mechanism or can I replace the belt without doing that?
The mods sound very interesting but I think out of my league at the moment, need to acquire some soldering skills first....I just learned how to bias a tube!
I ordered two new leaf switches (it has a pair according to the service manual) and a new belt from partstore.com . The switches are back ordered and not expected to ship until the end of April but I'm hoping they send the belt before then. If replacing the belt works then I'll cancel the order for the switches.
It'll be the first time I've taken apart anything like this so all advice is appreciated. Do I remove the whole tray mechanism or can I replace the belt without doing that?
The mods sound very interesting but I think out of my league at the moment, need to acquire some soldering skills first....I just learned how to bias a tube!
Well, one step forward , two steps back...partstore.com says that the belt is no longer available and that with the lack of a leaf switch until the end of April is frustrating.
Can anyone suggest another place to find these items? The parts numbers are 1-572-086 (11) for the switches and 3-653-387-(01) for the belt. Both seem to be Sony parts and the belt has suggested replacement 3-653-387-(00). I'm not sure if the substitute belt would or not.
I'm going to try Union Electric Distributors as well but if anyone has other suggestions I'd appreciate the info.
cheers,
Dave
Can anyone suggest another place to find these items? The parts numbers are 1-572-086 (11) for the switches and 3-653-387-(01) for the belt. Both seem to be Sony parts and the belt has suggested replacement 3-653-387-(00). I'm not sure if the substitute belt would or not.
I'm going to try Union Electric Distributors as well but if anyone has other suggestions I'd appreciate the info.
cheers,
Dave
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