Rotel RCD-971 gone haywire - Page 6

Mooly · 8th May 2010, 05:06 PM

You need plenty of heat to desolder properly with braid... I prefer a large tip even for fine work.

For a normal fixed temperature iron I would say 25 watts or so minimum.
This is what I use, which shows the braid.
Braid... get a decent width, it's surprising how it eats the solder.

Working with SMD. How to do it without specialised tools.

jbaric · 11th June 2010, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russellc

Have a 971 also, it and as far as I can tell, mopst every rotel gets the "fight the drawer" syndrome. I find it happens occasionally and then quits. Once in a while it starts on track 10 as well. Just every now and then, I've had it since new.

russellc

Replace "Play" button S353

Alexdad54 · 21st June 2010, 08:14 PM

Well, after having a go at it on my own and bollixing it up, I want to thanks Bill Fuss for coming to the rescue! He kindly offered to fix it for me and also also did some op amp and clock upgrades as well,. It now performs flawlessly and sounds great!
Many, many thanks Bill!

8th May 2010, 05:06 PM	#51
Mooly diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2007	You need plenty of heat to desolder properly with braid... I prefer a large tip even for fine work. For a normal fixed temperature iron I would say 25 watts or so minimum. This is what I use, which shows the braid. Braid... get a decent width, it's surprising how it eats the solder. Working with SMD. How to do it without specialised tools. __________________ ------------------------------------------------------- *A simulation free zone.* *Design it, build it, test it.*

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21st June 2010, 08:14 PM	#53
Alexdad54 diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2009	Well, after having a go at it on my own and bollixing it up, I want to thanks Bill Fuss for coming to the rescue! He kindly offered to fix it for me and also also did some op amp and clock upgrades as well,. It now performs flawlessly and sounds great! Many, many thanks Bill!

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