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Old 8th November 2009, 09:24 PM   #11
nad is offline nad  
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Originally Posted by amc184 View Post
Okay, put the fuse in as per the attached diagram. A secondary fuse is not necessary.

There are two types of appliance, grounded and double insulated. With grounded appliances the chassis is connected to ground, and the power cord will have a ground pin (three pins total). Double insulated appliances are not grounded, and will only have a two pin power cord. They use two layers of insulation to ensure they remain safe.

If your CD player is double insulated, and a lot are, you need to put two layers of insulation on all the 240VAC cables and fittings you add to make sure the player will still be safe after you modify it.

A shorted winding is formed when you somehow make a conductive loop through the middle and completely around the toroid. The transformer will get very hot, then very broken. See diagram for example.
Wow, I'm gobsmacked. Thank you greatly, really impressed. The drawing is brilliant. Now I know exactly what I need to do.

All the best,
Ant
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Old 9th November 2009, 06:26 PM   #12
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Another question for any helpers out there......

Does anyone know if it is common practice when fitting any type/brand of ugraded clock to remove/bridge the 2 associated ceramic capacitors leading to earth from the old oscillators legs and also remove the parallel resistor?

Thank you
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Old 9th November 2009, 09:04 PM   #13
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You will need to remove all of the components you mentioned. Of the two pads where the crystal was, one will be XIN, the other XOUT. The clock output needs to be soldered to the XIN pad. What IC was used as the clock generator (what chip was the crystal connected to)?
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Old 9th November 2009, 09:14 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by amc184 View Post
You will need to remove all of the components you mentioned. Of the two pads where the crystal was, one will be XIN, the other XOUT. The clock output needs to be soldered to the XIN pad. What IC was used as the clock generator (what chip was the crystal connected to)?
Thank you again for your reply. I started another thread as I didn't think people would spot my question. Tha chip is a Toshiba TC94A54MFG 001. Think I've figured out the in/out from a basic diagram: http://www.toshiba.com/taec/componen...94A5460MFG.pdf (in at pin 23 X1, out at 24 X0) is that correct?
A helpfull chap has been guiding me, there should be a recent post heading 'clock replacement' if you would like to see what's been posted.

Thank you again & all the best,
Ant
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Old 9th November 2009, 09:18 PM   #15
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Okay, just saw that you posted that it is a Toshiba TC94A54. On this IC, XIN is pin 23, so connect the clock PCB's output to this pin (or the trace from the removed crystal that leads to this pin).
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Old 9th November 2009, 09:22 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by amc184 View Post
Okay, just saw that you posted that it is a Toshiba TC94A54. On this IC, XIN is pin 23, so connect the clock PCB's output to this pin (or the trace from the removed crystal that leads to this pin).
Great stuff, just what I thought. About to order the toroidal now and start burning my fingers. Just looking for an inline fuse holder on Farnells. Thanks, Ant.
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Old 13th November 2009, 11:25 PM   #17
nad is offline nad  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc184 View Post
Okay, put the fuse in as per the attached diagram. A secondary fuse is not necessary.

There are two types of appliance, grounded and double insulated. With grounded appliances the chassis is connected to ground, and the power cord will have a ground pin (three pins total). Double insulated appliances are not grounded, and will only have a two pin power cord. They use two layers of insulation to ensure they remain safe.

If your CD player is double insulated, and a lot are, you need to put two layers of insulation on all the 240VAC cables and fittings you add to make sure the player will still be safe after you modify it.

A shorted winding is formed when you somehow make a conductive loop through the middle and completely around the toroid. The transformer will get very hot, then very broken. See diagram for example.
Hello, either I have a problem or the 100mA fuse is not enough?????
Upon power up the fuse blows, could it be too low a value??
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Old 14th November 2009, 09:15 AM   #18
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Default Current draw answer needed?

Hello,

I'm in need of a desperate answer.

Does anyone out there know what current the diykits.com.hk clock kit draws?
I'm using a 12v toroidal with a 100mA fuse but it blows as soon as connected.

100mA seems a bit low to me, what should I go for????



Thanks
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Old 14th November 2009, 09:41 AM   #19
nad is offline nad  
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Got the answer. 20mA....... must be something wrong elsewhere
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Old 14th November 2009, 10:31 AM   #20
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Hi Nad,

It's possible the 100ma fuse can't handle the turn on surge, depends on how much capacitance they have before the reg. Try slo blow fuses if that's not what you have now. You could safely go to 250ma, if there is a problem elsewhere it will still blow instantly.

Best, Bill
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