Yes, I have tried it, and it remains my main CD player. A simple marantz CD65 with tube output stage and some extra modifications. The sound is excellent.
See here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/40456-cdm2-10-behaving-badly-7.html
See here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/40456-cdm2-10-behaving-badly-7.html
I Lampized a JVC cd player using a seperate 6SN7 preamp, and also rebuilt the case from wood and aluminum, with a clear plexi glass cover to see inside. It both sounds good and looks good and all I spent money on was for the solid Oak side panels and the plexi glass, everything else was salvaged parts and a NOS 6SN7 biased with Red LED's.
For me this is the best CD player I have heard yet, so I can't wait to finnish the Lampizator mod with the Philips CD670.
Such a great site!
Lukasz Fikus Lampizator
For me this is the best CD player I have heard yet, so I can't wait to finnish the Lampizator mod with the Philips CD670.
Such a great site!
Lukasz Fikus Lampizator
By "Lampizator" do you mean simply adding tube amplifiers after the D/A, or is this a specific circuit. I have not found anything by searching.
I've got some miniature 1AG4 power Pentodes that would be sweet due to their size, but the plate curves don't look that wonderful. One would have to run a really steep load-line at 41V on the plate unless I biased it at -4v on the grid with 1.8mA of anode current, if I interpret this data correctly I get a 2583 load line:
NJ7P Tube Database Search
Since the typical CD Rom Drive only uses +5 and +12, I would need to add a B+ supply (Flyback) to get 41V for the plate and screen.
Neat tube, but linearity doesn't look that great.
I've got some miniature 1AG4 power Pentodes that would be sweet due to their size, but the plate curves don't look that wonderful. One would have to run a really steep load-line at 41V on the plate unless I biased it at -4v on the grid with 1.8mA of anode current, if I interpret this data correctly I get a 2583 load line:
NJ7P Tube Database Search
Since the typical CD Rom Drive only uses +5 and +12, I would need to add a B+ supply (Flyback) to get 41V for the plate and screen.
Neat tube, but linearity doesn't look that great.
The Lampizator is an SRPP circuit, but with certain Russian tubes -6H6P. (6N6Pi) I have a set, but have not used them yet!
Lampizator page index
Lampizator page index
I have been contemplating what kind of caps I should use to replace the 14 220nF surface mount caps around the TDA1541A with, got any good suggestions? I hear that Nichicon Muse are good in the power supply, I have 2 Gold tune 10,000uF 71V caps salvaged from a Sony amp and 2 330uF 50V BG caps that I purchased a couple of years ago.
hi panomaniac,
i may be wrong! but i think the 6n6pi version should not be used only the 6n6p. link here
upgrade_noval_tubes_to_6H6P
Well there is a lot of confusion on how this tube is called. As it's a Russian tube, it's marked in Cryllic. So to those of us who mostly read the latin alphabet, it looks like 6H6n
But that would actually translate as 6N6P in latin script. The last letter looks like an odd letter "n" in the latin alphabet, but it is P (Pi) in Cryllic. As in Greek. Π
I hope that makes sense!
But that would actually translate as 6N6P in latin script. The last letter looks like an odd letter "n" in the latin alphabet, but it is P (Pi) in Cryllic. As in Greek. Π
I hope that makes sense!
I see your point, I actually have a bunch of old computer CDrom drives stashed away waiting to be Lampized or have their cheap output opa-amps removed for experimentation, but that may be for a more spacific thread yet to be created....
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