VRDS 20 problem -isolation - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Source & Line > Digital Source

Digital Source Digital Players and Recorders: CD , SACD , Tape, Memory Card, etc.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 15th December 2008, 03:32 AM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Miniwatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Den Haag
Default VRDS 20 problem -isolation

Hi all,

I've got a Teac VRDS 20 that I use as a transport. A few years ago I disconnected the analog boards as I didn't use them, more juice for the digital part and no interference etc.

Now I reconnected it all, and suddenly I have a weird problem.
There are two relais on the balanced board, and they click like crazy. A few clicks during power-up, when starting a cd, when paused, when skipping to the next track. And no sound whatsoever, just a few thumps. I checked whatever I could (I'm not a digital techie..) but there's nothing broken etc.
I also can't remember hearing those clicks when I first got the player, they're pretty loud.

Now the funny thing is that this does not occur when I use a mains isolation transformer...
Maybe it's too late, and I should sleep on it, but I'm completely lost here: what's the difference???
Does anyone have an idea?

Thanks for thinking with me!
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th December 2008, 04:54 AM   #2
jitter is offline jitter  Netherlands
diyAudio Member
 
jitter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Eindhoven, The Netherlands
Sounds like bad grounding (oxidation) to me, that can do really weird things. Thoroughly clean every connector on the board (and its counterpart on the cable) and try again.
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th December 2008, 05:14 AM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
Miniwatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Den Haag
Quote:
Originally posted by jitter
Sounds like bad grounding (oxidation) to me, that can do really weird things. Thoroughly clean every connector on the board (and its counterpart on the cable) and try again.
I will do that

But once more: there's no problem when I use an isolation xformer (een scheidingstrafo). That has something to do with grounding too of course I just don't know enough about these things

The connectors haven't been used in years, so your point of oxidation makes perfect sense..
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th December 2008, 07:01 AM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
georgehifi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Manly Australia (Jewel of the Pacific)
Send a message via MSN to georgehifi
When you disconnected the analog board did you remove all 3 connectors shown?

Cheers George
Attached Images
File Type: jpg teac06.jpg (56.4 KB, 114 views)
__________________
Avatar : Production Lightspeed Attenuator
www.lightspeedattenuator.com
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th December 2008, 08:03 AM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
Miniwatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Den Haag
Thanks!

Mine's a bit different:

Click the image to open in full size.

I disconnected the two connectors coming 'from the other side', circled in yellow.

BTW I didn't cover the chips with copper nor did I apply that white goo
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th December 2008, 03:57 PM   #6
jitter is offline jitter  Netherlands
diyAudio Member
 
jitter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Eindhoven, The Netherlands
Quote:
Originally posted by Miniwatt
But once more: there's no problem when I use an isolation xformer (een scheidingstrafo). That has something to do with grounding too of course I just don't know enough about these things
I don't know the reason for that either because the power transformer inside the Teac already isolates the player from the mains. It's an inherent trait of a transformer with separate primary and secondary windings (I'm assuming the VRDS-20 has such a transformer).

BTW, in your picture I see a black wire with a cable lug just hanging there. Shouldn't that be attached to the frame somewhere?
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th December 2008, 07:00 PM   #7
diyAudio Member
 
georgehifi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Manly Australia (Jewel of the Pacific)
Send a message via MSN to georgehifi
Quote:
Originally posted by jitter




BTW, in your picture I see a black wire with a cable lug just hanging there. Shouldn't that be attached to the frame somewhere?
That's the earth for the harness shield, possible that could be the culprit.

Cheers George
__________________
Avatar : Production Lightspeed Attenuator
www.lightspeedattenuator.com
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th December 2008, 07:15 PM   #8
diyAudio Member
 
Miniwatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Den Haag
Sorry guys, I took everything apart to find the fault, and didn't screw everything back just to take a picture The boards are loose too. Of course those earth lugs are connected when the player's put back together.

I'll try some connector cleaning tonight
  Reply With Quote
Old 16th December 2008, 04:48 AM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
Miniwatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Den Haag
The connector cleaning didn't do much, so I just let it play for a while to see if a 'warm up' would help. And it stopped the clicking! But still no sound
As I had run out of options for the analog pcb I went back to the servo board. Although it's a major PITA to get it out
Previously I had altered the S/PDIF out, so I checked if I didn't miss anything when returning it to it's original state. Everything was fine, maybe some small particles on the pcb. I brushed it off and hey presto: it worked again!!
I've spent countless hours on the darn thing, so imagine my happy dance

End of this story, thanks for the help everyone!
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Teac VRDS T1 Problem...does not open Fimax Digital Source 6 8th March 2013 01:53 PM
LM3886 Isolation Problem...... Minion Chip Amps 9 28th March 2007 03:51 AM
VRDS problem intense-tavda Digital Source 4 23rd September 2006 08:35 PM
VRDS 25 and VRDS 25X: how to tell the difference? dubkarma Digital Source 1 20th August 2006 03:44 PM
TEAC VRDS-10 Problem DavidY80 Digital Source 0 24th June 2004 02:02 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 12:32 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2