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Old 9th December 2008, 04:42 PM   #1
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Default Philips CD610 recloking

Hello,

I have a decent CD610 player and wish to improve it. It already performed some of the usual tweaks: bigger caps, bypass with film caps, OPamp change (both I/V and output), better crossover caps...

I would like now to try reclocking, thanks to a new clock with a separate transformer.

Seems like this CD use TDA1543 + SAA7220GP + SAA7310, as well as MN4264P ( http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/data.../499440_DS.pdf )

The oscillator is connected to pins 10 and 11 of the SAA7220
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

SA7220GP datasheet:
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/data...ps/SAA7220.pdf

Pin 10 of SAA7220GP is "XOUT": crystal oscillator output: drive output to clock crystal
Pin 11 is: "XIN" crystal oscillator input: input from crystal oscillator or slave clock.

My clock has a frequency divider so that I can chose frequency according to the crystal (from 33...mHz to 8....mHz, so I have "1/3" and "ground".

Which has to be connected to pin 10 ?

What do I need to remove or cut to power my clock with its own transfo ? The clock has its own regulation board.

Many thanks !
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Old 9th December 2008, 05:10 PM   #2
jitter is offline jitter  Netherlands
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http://www.ne.jp/asahi/sound.system/...t_ev/cd-95.htm

I don't read Japanse, but judging from the first four pictures I'm guessing these guys are doing the same as you. If so, I think the pictures might give you the answer...
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Old 10th December 2008, 08:40 AM   #3
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Thanks for the hand, but this link sadly does not help much. Still don't know where I have to plug what
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Old 10th December 2008, 09:47 AM   #4
pilli is offline pilli  France
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Around pins 10 and 11 of the SAA7220 there is normally a crystal, two caps (probably SMD) and a resistor, connected as shown in the 7220 datasheet (page 17, Fig. 9).

Remove the crystal and the caps (I think the resistor can stay in) and connect the output of your clock to pin 11 (XIn).

- Your clock's ground must be connected to the player's ground

- Your clock must give 11.2896MHz

- Your clock will need a supply; you said it has a dedicated transformer, so you should be ok. There is nothing you have to cut from the original circuit, it is kind of a "passive" oscillator.

Hope this helps...

_
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Old 10th December 2008, 09:50 AM   #5
poynton is offline poynton  United Kingdom
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The same rules apply as for your previous postings in the CD723 thread.

Follow the suggestions in the above post.

Andy
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If it ain't broke, break it !! Then fix it again. It's called DIY !
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Old 10th December 2008, 10:10 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by pilli
Around pins 10 and 11 of the SAA7220 there is normally a crystal, two caps (probably SMD) and a resistor, connected as shown in the 7220 datasheet (page 17, Fig. 9).

Remove the crystal and the caps (I think the resistor can stay in) and connect the output of your clock to pin 11 (XIn).

- Your clock's ground must be connected to the player's ground

- Your clock must give 11.2896MHz

- Your clock will need a supply; you said it has a dedicated transformer, so you should be ok. There is nothing you have to cut from the original circuit, it is kind of a "passive" oscillator.

Hope this helps...

_

Thanks a lot.

So I would have to remove the black SMD + the two green/green SMD chips ?
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Old 10th December 2008, 11:26 AM   #7
pilli is offline pilli  France
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Quote:
Originally posted by deuginthesky
So I would have to remove the black SMD + the two green/green SMD chips ?
...sorry, I don't know the 610 in particular.

You have to remove three things:

One quartz crystal. This is not SMD, it is a rather large (say 2cm tall) shiny metal can with "11.2896" marked on it. I think it is in the picture you posted the shiny thing at the lower right corner, below the 7220.
Actually I'll attach a picture of an 8MHz quartz can.

Two capacitors. To identify them try to map the schematic to the actual circuit. They might be on the opposite PCB side to the crystal.

Maybe the black SMD thing is the resistor?


(sorry if this is all very "open doors", but there is a time before you know things and they look strange, and then you learn them and they look obvious...)


_
Attached Images
File Type: png quartz.png (85.5 KB, 355 views)
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Old 10th December 2008, 03:29 PM   #8
jitter is offline jitter  Netherlands
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@deuginthesky

You're crystal (Xtal) is the metal can closest to pins 10 and 11 of the SAA7220. On the solder side (your first picture) you can see an SMD-resistor very close to the pins of the Xtal. I think I can just read 224 (meaning 22 * 10^4 = 220 kOhm). Then on the right side of the resistor there is one capacitor, the other one is the similar looking one located one on the other side of the row of pins of the SAA7220. Hope that helps in recognizing the components you need to remove...
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Old 10th December 2008, 04:30 PM   #9
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I mesured the black chip as a 210K resistor, so with the +/-5% tolerance this is a 220K as you stated.

Ok for the removal.

Clock is this one
Click the image to open in full size.

So the "1/3 = 11,28mHz" to be connected to the pin 11 of SAA
grd to pin 10 of SAA.

Is that it ?

I ask dumb questions but I don't want to freeze the SAA7220 or something else.

Thanks a lot to all of you

EDIT: what's annoying me is the "ground" on the clock board. If it refers to output then okay, but what if it's really a ground point, where do I get the clock output ?
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Old 10th December 2008, 05:41 PM   #10
oshifis is offline oshifis  Hungary
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GND should be connected to pin 12 of the SAA. Pin 10 should be left open. You get the clock (goes to pin 11 of the SAA) at 1/3 Fo.
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