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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: --
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I bought a used Sony DVP-S7700 for $145..
a new khs-180a laser block itself is $121.99! for anyone not familiar with this player check out what $145 has get you: clock: digital psu which fits within its own shielded enclosure in chassis: analog psu: photo kind of makes transport mechanism look cheaper than what it is..though not quite the scd-1/777es (also using khs-180a), this mechanism is a nice one..as though that means anything.. laser block switch out wasn't difficult at all.. I got about 1500hrs out of the used one.. and replaced with spare I had for 777es. ![]() ![]()
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Santa Cruz, California
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Major companies generally don't take on PCBs with grid references unless they've proved all the blocks. This particular design has probably gotten the advantage of resolving all the issues from rev 1.
If you can access the blind vias on layers 3 and 5 then you can do anything! How do you plan to hack this, I'm intrigued? |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: --
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I'm not that advanced! I just made this stupid wire harness connecting digital psu to main digital board. I had to switch out original 12 pin header on main board with Hi-Rose one to get correct fit. It's the only reason I've got digital board out at all. I'm not planning anything else with that board..at least for time being.
I will do some things with the dac/analogue out pcb though.. it seems a good board to experiment with as it is easy to disconnect, get in and out.. (and no I didn't botch top layer pads in getting out 12 pin header..honest..though it looks that way in top photo..a few of 12 pins connect to nothing at all)..that would really suck if I took out a via connecting a layer 3 or 5! everyone check out what I just ruined for $145!)
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: --
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*edit
(and no I didn't botch top layer pads in getting out 12 pin header..honest..(well maybe one--just looked 5x--via is still intact and connects to bottom layer) : / ..2 of 12 pins connect to nothing..that would really suck if I took out via connecting a layer 3 or 5! yes indeed. "everyone check out this hack job I did for $145!" It would also be cruel to have a middle layer connecting a 12 pin header directly.. it's top and bottom layer for this one..actually just bottom, top layer pads only. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: --
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: --
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i overestimated 1500hrs on used laser. It worked no problem from dec.06 - jun.08, approx. 561 days. I would say 2hr. a day ave. that laser was on is a bit high, 1.5hrs a day ave. is closer. I used sony primarily for white noise meditation cd I use everyday.. so somewhere between 841.5 and 1122hrs before having to change laser, or 28-37% of total laser life if good for 3000hrs, or $34-$45 of cost of new one. take out time I used laser and I got everything else for close to $100....or not.. : p
are khs180a laser blocks good for about 3000hrs? on side note: we have sony vpl-vw50 projector with lamp that is supposedly good for 3000hrs. my brother went through 2500hrs in slightly less than a year, almost all playing Xbox. New lamps for those are $250-400! dad was kind of pissed about that one...those lamps are easy to install though...why am I saying this stuff?! |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: --
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wait, you know what, the dvd player I have is actually dvp-s7000.
sorreeeeenn.. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: --
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right so the dvp-s7000: here is the audio board:
Digital Filter cxd8505/Current Pulse DAC cxa8055: ![]() +5V/-7V regulators for CP DAC and opamp analog out, use zener diode as reference, dual opamp, and 2sc2275, 2sa985 transistors: ![]() +5V reg for digital filter: ![]() opamp I/V and buffer and carbon film resistors..sony has a thing for carbon film resistors don't they! (they also have a thing for not decoupling opamp power pins..at least right close to pins..opamps are ~3 inches from reg output cap on ~4-5mm power leads. the error amps in regs are not decoupled either, save by 1000uF caps at board entry..distance can be seen in top photo in post..the one error amp is about 4inch from those 1000uFcaps..) incidentally, here is dvp-s7700 audio board (not my photo): |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: --
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I changed 2 error amps in regulators from NJM4580 to OPA2132 and OPA2134, mainly because I bought those opamps a time ago and haven't used them. I decoupled opamp closest to 1000uF caps with TDK C0G FK 0.1uF ceramic across power pins; that blue little cap is perfect size for this (electrolytic in photo is part of filter for diode voltage reference, not opamp decoupling) :
![]() the opamp furthest from 1000uF filter caps I decoupled with a 4.7uF 50V Black Gate N non-polar across pins. It's only 25 degrees with window open and fans blowing when soldering..although possible it just would have been too time consuming to decouple straight from power pins to load GND..much easier this way..though if I remember not quite as effective? I know I read that somewhere but cannot remember why and don't know enough to reason out why on own. ps: I'm an absolute wuss when it comes to solder fumes..seriously..my freaking lungs hurt!..I run every day and notice difference on days soldering--3 box fans, open window, and stupid mask just don't seem to do it! : p ..lungs feel constricted at point where air enters and I wheeze a bit..I think it's mostly the rosin flux fumes. ![]() metal irons are amazing.. look at those solder joins! ..not perfect work by me but nice shiny joints are definitely easier to get with those irons: ![]() ![]() oh, and here is schematic for regs:
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: --
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edit:
I meant metcal, not 'metal' irons are amazing.. : | I'm not exactly sure which metcal soldering psu I have..one of the older ones..but it works really well and I'd hate to go back to $20 weller irons.. |
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