Troubleshooting Mini TDA1543

etcetera · 29th October 2008, 07:38 AM

I just built a mini tda1543 from hifidiy.net. First digital project. Have had good luck with chipamps and crossovers and such.

Anyways, it doesn't work. Power LED comes on. I get 5 volts on the middle pin of the lm317's. About 3.6 volts from pin 3.

On the output I get zero voltage and no sound. tracing back from the output I get zero volts until I get to the "input" side of the last cap before the output. Then voltage goes to 2 volts measured to output ground. Those capacitors are in line, not to ground. I'm afraid I don't have a very good understanding of the circuit. I thought I was pretty careful about getting the polarity right on all the caps.

The TDA1543 chip gets slightly warm. I understand this is normal. The LM317's get a little warmer. By no means hot, probably just over 100 degrees F after it's been on for 10 minutes. The CS814 is ever so slightly above room temp.

I was careful about ESD. I've looked very closely at the board and don't see any shorted solder joints. Already went through and re soldered all the joints anyways. I tried it on 2 known good working optical outputs. Haven't tried the coax yet.

If I had to make a guess I'd say I probably reversed the caps at the end of the output stage. My understanding is the TDA1543 is constant voltage out. Well I get 2 volts out just before the cap.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Eric

philpoole · 29th October 2008, 07:50 AM

I have a suspicion, and it might be just your description, but your power supply seems a little low.
The TDA1543 needs a 5v supply. Are you feeding 5V to the LM317, and getting 3.6V out? If so, that might be the problem.
Cheers,
Phil

philpoole · 29th October 2008, 07:52 AM

BTW, do you have a schematic?

etcetera · 29th October 2008, 08:09 AM

I'm feeding 12 volts to the 317, which would be pin 1 on the schematic. Pin 2 has 5 volts and feeds the tda1543. pin 3 is the one with less voltage. The kit came with a schematic on the back of the instructions, but it's pretty fuzzy. I'll see if I can get a good scan or pic. Here's the online assembly instructions.

http://us.hifidiy.net/Article.asp?ArticleId=152

More pics of the board.

http://us.hifidiy.net/Article.asp?ArticleId=174

etcetera · 29th October 2008, 08:37 AM

Edited to remove pic. Here's a link instead.
http://ericclaussen.com/1543.jpg

etcetera · 29th October 2008, 08:53 AM

Got my pins mixed up. Pin 3 on the schematic is the middle pin on the 317. Anyways both the cs8414 and tda1543 are getting 5 volts.

I wish I had some better measurement tools. A scope would probably be handy right about now.

philpoole · 29th October 2008, 03:14 PM

Ah right, okay then.
If it were me, I'd probably double check the I2S connections from the CS chip to the 1543, then the input circuitry. Its quite likely its all powered up, and ready for a signal, but it either isn't getting anything, or is failing to sync.

etcetera · 29th October 2008, 03:39 PM

I'm going to pull the TDA5413 so I can measure the serial data connections for continuity. I'm glad I put the 5413 in a socket. I was planning on sampling a few different 5413's just as an experiment. Everything looks good on both ends but who knows.

Anyways I'm home today with my 3.5 and 1.5 year old boys so it's unlikely I'll get much of a chance to do much but stare at it until this evening.

Thanks for your suggestions.

The good news is I've read the spec sheets for both IC's and I've studied other portions of the circuit so I have a much better understanding of what is going on.

Thanks again.

Eric

etcetera · 29th October 2008, 11:39 PM

Well, the connections between the 1543 and 8414 are good. At this point I'm thinking I must of somehow killed either the 8414 or the 1543. The 317's are much warmer today, to the point where it is uncomfortable to hold after 10-15 seconds. The only thing I did was re-solder c10 and c11 because solder didn't wick up to the ground side of the board. Shouldn't have mattered because the holes are through plated anyways.

Found a better schematic on the website.

http://us.hifidiy.net/Article.asp?ArticleId=176#

For a capacitor, the short leg is negative right? Most of them were not labeled other than having a short leg, which is now snipped of course. When looking at the top of an electrolytic, if one side has a colored edge would that be negative? I'm second guessing myself now.

I don't think I'm going to buy a replacement 8414, it would be $21. I think it'll go to the junk drawer to be revisited if I ever get a scope.

Destroyer OS. · 30th October 2008, 12:24 AM

If you accidently gave it the wrong polarity to hook it up, it will of baked the 1543.

29th October 2008, 07:38 AM	#1
etcetera diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2007	Troubleshooting Mini TDA1543 I just built a mini tda1543 from hifidiy.net. First digital project. Have had good luck with chipamps and crossovers and such. Anyways, it doesn't work. Power LED comes on. I get 5 volts on the middle pin of the lm317's. About 3.6 volts from pin 3. On the output I get zero voltage and no sound. tracing back from the output I get zero volts until I get to the "input" side of the last cap before the output. Then voltage goes to 2 volts measured to output ground. Those capacitors are in line, not to ground. I'm afraid I don't have a very good understanding of the circuit. I thought I was pretty careful about getting the polarity right on all the caps. The TDA1543 chip gets slightly warm. I understand this is normal. The LM317's get a little warmer. By no means hot, probably just over 100 degrees F after it's been on for 10 minutes. The CS814 is ever so slightly above room temp. I was careful about ESD. I've looked very closely at the board and don't see any shorted solder joints. Already went through and re soldered all the joints anyways. I tried it on 2 known good working optical outputs. Haven't tried the coax yet. If I had to make a guess I'd say I probably reversed the caps at the end of the output stage. My understanding is the TDA1543 is constant voltage out. Well I get 2 volts out just before the cap. Any ideas would be appreciated. Eric

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29th October 2008, 07:50 AM	#2
philpoole diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004	I have a suspicion, and it might be just your description, but your power supply seems a little low. The TDA1543 needs a 5v supply. Are you feeding 5V to the LM317, and getting 3.6V out? If so, that might be the problem. Cheers, Phil

29th October 2008, 07:52 AM	#3
philpoole diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004	BTW, do you have a schematic?

29th October 2008, 08:09 AM	#4
etcetera diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2007	I'm feeding 12 volts to the 317, which would be pin 1 on the schematic. Pin 2 has 5 volts and feeds the tda1543. pin 3 is the one with less voltage. The kit came with a schematic on the back of the instructions, but it's pretty fuzzy. I'll see if I can get a good scan or pic. Here's the online assembly instructions. http://us.hifidiy.net/Article.asp?ArticleId=152 More pics of the board. http://us.hifidiy.net/Article.asp?ArticleId=174

29th October 2008, 08:37 AM	#5
etcetera diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2007	Edited to remove pic. Here's a link instead. http://ericclaussen.com/1543.jpg

29th October 2008, 08:53 AM	#6
etcetera diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2007	Got my pins mixed up. Pin 3 on the schematic is the middle pin on the 317. Anyways both the cs8414 and tda1543 are getting 5 volts. I wish I had some better measurement tools. A scope would probably be handy right about now.

29th October 2008, 03:14 PM	#7
philpoole diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004	Ah right, okay then. If it were me, I'd probably double check the I2S connections from the CS chip to the 1543, then the input circuitry. Its quite likely its all powered up, and ready for a signal, but it either isn't getting anything, or is failing to sync.

29th October 2008, 03:39 PM	#8
etcetera diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2007	I'm going to pull the TDA5413 so I can measure the serial data connections for continuity. I'm glad I put the 5413 in a socket. I was planning on sampling a few different 5413's just as an experiment. Everything looks good on both ends but who knows. Anyways I'm home today with my 3.5 and 1.5 year old boys so it's unlikely I'll get much of a chance to do much but stare at it until this evening. Thanks for your suggestions. The good news is I've read the spec sheets for both IC's and I've studied other portions of the circuit so I have a much better understanding of what is going on. Thanks again. Eric

29th October 2008, 11:39 PM	#9
etcetera diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2007	Well, the connections between the 1543 and 8414 are good. At this point I'm thinking I must of somehow killed either the 8414 or the 1543. The 317's are much warmer today, to the point where it is uncomfortable to hold after 10-15 seconds. The only thing I did was re-solder c10 and c11 because solder didn't wick up to the ground side of the board. Shouldn't have mattered because the holes are through plated anyways. Found a better schematic on the website. http://us.hifidiy.net/Article.asp?ArticleId=176# For a capacitor, the short leg is negative right? Most of them were not labeled other than having a short leg, which is now snipped of course. When looking at the top of an electrolytic, if one side has a colored edge would that be negative? I'm second guessing myself now. I don't think I'm going to buy a replacement 8414, it would be $21. I think it'll go to the junk drawer to be revisited if I ever get a scope.

30th October 2008, 12:24 AM	#10
Destroyer OS. diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2005	If you accidently gave it the wrong polarity to hook it up, it will of baked the 1543.

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