Hello,
I have trouble with my loved CD303, and just can't help myself.
For the story, I acquired it for over1 1/2 year and until a couple of days it was perfectly working. Just a problem with the tray that would't fully close or open since 6 monthes.
Now for the problem: I was listening to some music as the player gave some loud noises from itself. The noise was very short, about 2 sec abd the kind of one which goes under your skin and that you can feel in your whole body. After this the player stopped. Turned it on and off a couple of times didn't changed anything: it just didn't wanted to spin. Until I pressed the tray. The cd was spinning and started to play again. As I was in hurry, I didn't payed attention to anything else.
Next day, I wanted to listen to some cds: The right channel just outputed some distortion noise, left channel had no problem. After left it warm up for 30 min or so, the distortion "ALMOST" disappeared. I said almost because you still can hear it on quiet passages and by carefully listening. On top of this: the right channel has very very low bass in comparisom with the left channel.
Yesterday, as I turned it on, there were some blank noise: no cd inserted, but the loudspeakers were crying... I had no scope o it, but "fortunatly" an equalizer: the noise on the high frequencies is almost continous, and periodical in the bass range (in case it could help someone for diagnostic!).
After a little warm up, the noise disappeared. But the right channel still has distortion and almost no bass output.
I thought on a cold joint, but not sure and I don't know of to start with this unit. So I would appreciate every help!
Thank you a lot!
ps: I searched the forum, found some treads about joint problems, but I couldn't help myself with them...
ps2: sorry for my english :/
I have trouble with my loved CD303, and just can't help myself.
For the story, I acquired it for over1 1/2 year and until a couple of days it was perfectly working. Just a problem with the tray that would't fully close or open since 6 monthes.
Now for the problem: I was listening to some music as the player gave some loud noises from itself. The noise was very short, about 2 sec abd the kind of one which goes under your skin and that you can feel in your whole body. After this the player stopped. Turned it on and off a couple of times didn't changed anything: it just didn't wanted to spin. Until I pressed the tray. The cd was spinning and started to play again. As I was in hurry, I didn't payed attention to anything else.
Next day, I wanted to listen to some cds: The right channel just outputed some distortion noise, left channel had no problem. After left it warm up for 30 min or so, the distortion "ALMOST" disappeared. I said almost because you still can hear it on quiet passages and by carefully listening. On top of this: the right channel has very very low bass in comparisom with the left channel.
Yesterday, as I turned it on, there were some blank noise: no cd inserted, but the loudspeakers were crying... I had no scope o it, but "fortunatly" an equalizer: the noise on the high frequencies is almost continous, and periodical in the bass range (in case it could help someone for diagnostic!).
After a little warm up, the noise disappeared. But the right channel still has distortion and almost no bass output.
I thought on a cold joint, but not sure and I don't know of to start with this unit. So I would appreciate every help!
Thank you a lot!
ps: I searched the forum, found some treads about joint problems, but I couldn't help myself with them...
ps2: sorry for my english :/
This sounds very much like one or more dry joints, probably in the power supply.
It would be a good idea to overhaul the PSU board with new capacitors in any case, checking for dry joints as you do the work.
It is not necessary to use "top quality" (expensive) capacitors in order to get the player working.
Warning. Do the power supply board only first. Do not replace parts on other boards as you may introduce faults there makinf future troubleshooting more difficult.
Andy
It would be a good idea to overhaul the PSU board with new capacitors in any case, checking for dry joints as you do the work.
It is not necessary to use "top quality" (expensive) capacitors in order to get the player working.
Warning. Do the power supply board only first. Do not replace parts on other boards as you may introduce faults there makinf future troubleshooting more difficult.
Andy
Thanks for your answer! I just resoldered most of the joint, it doesn't change anything. I'll do the rest as soon as I have a little bit time
Another question: on the heatsink, 5 transistors are mounted. 4 have a silver backplate, but the second from left looks gold. Could it be that this one is burnt out?
Another question: on the heatsink, 5 transistors are mounted. 4 have a silver backplate, but the second from left looks gold. Could it be that this one is burnt out?
Ok, here are 2 pics from what I mean: pic1 and pic2.
On the pics, the left transistor has a dark gold/light brown color on its metal plate, the right one has the "normal" silver color. The one with the dark color color is the second from left when facing the open unit (tray is then front left!). The 4 other (eg. 1st, 3rd, 4th and 5th if counting from left and facing the opened unit) have the silver color!
Now, another question: on the next 3 pics, you can see some solder joints. These are as I found them! Are they "normal" (factory joins), are as my unit been modified? They really look ugly, and for now I din't do anything to them!
What do you think?
On the pics, the left transistor has a dark gold/light brown color on its metal plate, the right one has the "normal" silver color. The one with the dark color color is the second from left when facing the open unit (tray is then front left!). The 4 other (eg. 1st, 3rd, 4th and 5th if counting from left and facing the opened unit) have the silver color!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Now, another question: on the next 3 pics, you can see some solder joints. These are as I found them! Are they "normal" (factory joins), are as my unit been modified? They really look ugly, and for now I din't do anything to them!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
What do you think?
Ok, here we go:
unfortunatly I don't have the service manual, and for now I just can't afford it
The left channel works normal, nice deep and clear bass, no crack, hiss or distortion.
The right channel has a lower output, very distorded. It sounds like if it was "hanging" on the cd (don't know if you understand what I mean: sometimes my car cd-player hangs for 1 or 2 seconds on a track, producing a very high noise, totaly distorted, which is going directly in your nerves
).
Saddly I don't have a scope, maybe (but really MAYBE!) I could get one from work for an evening!
Mooly, could you please be more precise? Maybe a diagram?
Poynton: I can't remember, I was focused on the right channel, so I didn't payed great attention to what was coming from the left.. saddly! For now, I don't have this noise when I power the cd player on. It's really quiet, right and left channels
BTW: how to gain access to the main electronic? I can't open the surrounding without damaging it, what I really would avoid! Any hint?
And I must admit, I feel more conrotable with good old solid state amplifiers or receivers than with that baby here...
unfortunatly I don't have the service manual, and for now I just can't afford it
The left channel works normal, nice deep and clear bass, no crack, hiss or distortion.
The right channel has a lower output, very distorded. It sounds like if it was "hanging" on the cd (don't know if you understand what I mean: sometimes my car cd-player hangs for 1 or 2 seconds on a track, producing a very high noise, totaly distorted, which is going directly in your nerves
).Saddly I don't have a scope, maybe (but really MAYBE!) I could get one from work for an evening!
Mooly, could you please be more precise? Maybe a diagram?
Poynton: I can't remember, I was focused on the right channel, so I didn't payed great attention to what was coming from the left.. saddly! For now, I don't have this noise when I power the cd player on. It's really quiet, right and left channels
BTW: how to gain access to the main electronic? I can't open the surrounding without damaging it, what I really would avoid! Any hint?
And I must admit, I feel more conrotable with good old solid state amplifiers or receivers than with that baby here...
Hi,
Have you tried searching for a manual on the forums -- someone must have one !! If the left channel is OK that means 95 % of the player is working normally. It really does sound like something silly. A PSU problem would affect both channels.
Just re-reading post #1. For the player to stop ( on it's own ? ) then that does sound like something else. Those two things, left channel OK and Right distorted and stops on it's own don't seem related really. No spillage or anything -- cats seen it many times.
Have you tried searching for a manual on the forums -- someone must have one !! If the left channel is OK that means 95 % of the player is working normally. It really does sound like something silly. A PSU problem would affect both channels.
Just re-reading post #1. For the player to stop ( on it's own ? ) then that does sound like something else. Those two things, left channel OK and Right distorted and stops on it's own don't seem related really. No spillage or anything -- cats
seen it many times.
Keep posting to come off moderation. Recheck the player. Is it 100% OK on the left channel all the time. This is a huge clue. Does the distortion on the right channel still gradually improve or is it "all or nothing". If you gently prod the PCB's with it playing does that show anything up.
It's always difficult diagnosing at a distance. Silly question, not a problem with your amp etc on one channel -- sorry- had to ask
It looks like I'm not moderated anymore
To post 1: I had a problem with the tray loading. Could be that it wasn't properly closed, so the player stopped. The funny thing is that the sound came distorted from both channels for 1 or 2 seconds. After this the payer stopped on its own. And would restart. Only after pressing on the tray it was ok!
And yes, I searched on the forum but couldn't find a sm...
Something different: how are the IC's on the "mainboard"? Are they soldered? On my 303, they are all on such plastic tays (don't know the name in english!), so it should be possible to take them of very easily!
To post 1: I had a problem with the tray loading. Could be that it wasn't properly closed, so the player stopped. The funny thing is that the sound came distorted from both channels for 1 or 2 seconds. After this the payer stopped on its own. And would restart. Only after pressing on the tray it was ok!
And yes, I searched on the forum but couldn't find a sm...
Something different: how are the IC's on the "mainboard"? Are they soldered? On my 303, they are all on such plastic tays (don't know the name in english!), so it should be possible to take them of very easily!
Last time it was gradually improving...
I'm just rechecking:
Timeline:
0 min: player stopped: everything quiet
player playing: left ch. ok, right totaly distorted
1min 30 sec: player stopped: cracking on right side, getting louder
2min30: player stopped: a very light "click" coming from the cd player (not sure!), no more cracking on right side, left side always ok..
player playing: left side ok, like always, right side: very light distortion, lack of bass, volume a little bit less than left side (on the vu-meter from my amp). I know the cd (not the player!) should be a little bit louder with this track on the right channel over the vu-meter.
I will continue to post
I'm just rechecking:
Timeline:
0 min: player stopped: everything quiet
player playing: left ch. ok, right totaly distorted
1min 30 sec: player stopped: cracking on right side, getting louder
2min30: player stopped: a very light "click" coming from the cd player (not sure!), no more cracking on right side, left side always ok..
player playing: left side ok, like always, right side: very light distortion, lack of bass, volume a little bit less than left side (on the vu-meter from my amp). I know the cd (not the player!) should be a little bit louder with this track on the right channel over the vu-meter.
I will continue to post
Something different: I read somewhere else on this forum that smeone had problem with his 303. The problem was related to the contacts from the tray. As I don't have the SM, I just can't have a look at the circuit. I wrote in my 1 st post that I had problems with the tray: not opening or closing, and moreover the first time I had the distortion the player suddently stopped playing, and wouldn't restart, only after pressing (heavily?) on the tray it started again. Could this be related?
After 1 hour playing: no changes...
After 1 hour playing: no changes...
Hi,
When you say player stopped at 2min 30sec, do you mean YOU stopped it or did it stop on it's own.
Whatever is or is not going on with the tray I can't see it would cause just one channel to be distorted.
This is where it gets difficult without actually seeing it and hearing it. Another thought, and again it's just because I can't actually see the player I am asking this, can I ask have you cleaned the lens. The kind of noise you describe sounds a bit like when the RF signal is low in amplitude, and the level is just on the threshold of the "data slicer" in the front end, but again it would really be affecting both channels. Worth looking at !!
Again if the disc tray/clamp etc was interfering with the physical rotation of the CD it may cause this type of effect, but again, not just on one channel.
You ask about the I/C's. Are they in sockets ? I don't know on this model, it's certainly not usual practice. Do you mean the 8 legged ones or the big ones. Has someone modded it, as you perhaps suspect ?
The audio problem still sounds more like a fault from after the DAC really. And you may still have a tray fault as a separate issue.
Might be worth starting another thread asking if anyone has one.
When you say player stopped at 2min 30sec, do you mean YOU stopped it or did it stop on it's own.
Whatever is or is not going on with the tray I can't see it would cause just one channel to be distorted.
This is where it gets difficult without actually seeing it and hearing it. Another thought, and again it's just because I can't actually see the player I am asking this, can I ask have you cleaned the lens. The kind of noise you describe sounds a bit like when the RF signal is low in amplitude, and the level is just on the threshold of the "data slicer" in the front end, but again it would really be affecting both channels. Worth looking at !!
Again if the disc tray/clamp etc was interfering with the physical rotation of the CD it may cause this type of effect, but again, not just on one channel.
You ask about the I/C's. Are they in sockets ? I don't know on this model, it's certainly not usual practice. Do you mean the 8 legged ones or the big ones. Has someone modded it, as you perhaps suspect ?
The audio problem still sounds more like a fault from after the DAC really. And you may still have a tray fault as a separate issue.
Might be worth starting another thread asking if anyone has one.
Are the PCB's anything like http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=32591&highlight=
Can you identify the DAC's TDA 1540/1 etc
Can you identify the DAC's TDA 1540/1 etc
Hi,
sorry, I mean that I stopped the player! It runned nice for more than a hour, then I stopped it. After more than 2 hours, I turned it on again: this time no noise, no cracking.
As for the lense: it is clean, no dust or anything on it. To be sure, I'm going to clean it with optial paper.
The tray was not really interfering with the disc rotation: it just didn't go all the way out or in. I've fixed this by cleaning the rails and adding some fresch lubrification.
Yes, socket was the word i was looking for! TDA1540D are both on sockets, as are SAA7030, MAB8410P, SAA7011 and two sony ICs on the far right side (sorry, can't read what is wrotten on them!). All the 2x8 legs ICs are soldered and not on socket.
As for modified unit: I really don't have a clue! I bought it used on the bay for 1 1/2 year or something like this. Nothing was wrotten about mod...
If you look at pictures 3 and 4 that I posted, you can see a resistor going from the power supply PCB to the cage where all the electronics is. Not sure if it has to be there...
sorry, I mean that I stopped the player! It runned nice for more than a hour, then I stopped it. After more than 2 hours, I turned it on again: this time no noise, no cracking.
As for the lense: it is clean, no dust or anything on it. To be sure, I'm going to clean it with optial paper.
The tray was not really interfering with the disc rotation: it just didn't go all the way out or in. I've fixed this by cleaning the rails and adding some fresch lubrification.
Yes, socket was the word i was looking for! TDA1540D are both on sockets, as are SAA7030, MAB8410P, SAA7011 and two sony ICs on the far right side (sorry, can't read what is wrotten on them!). All the 2x8 legs ICs are soldered and not on socket.
As for modified unit: I really don't have a clue! I bought it used on the bay for 1 1/2 year or something like this. Nothing was wrotten about mod...
If you look at pictures 3 and 4 that I posted, you can see a resistor going from the power supply PCB to the cage where all the electronics is. Not sure if it has to be there...
Mooly said:
Mooly.
The cd303 is an early player with the TDA1540 chipset (in this case one of the early ones judging by the chip info supplied).
The boards bear little resemblance to those in later players like the cd104.
The mechanism is also different in that the whole mechanism slides in/out not just the tray.
Attila
Push all the ic's into their sockets. several may make a loud creaking sound as they go in - nothing to worry about.
Also make sure the flexible flat cables from the mechanism are pushed into the sockets.
Andy
Mooly: Pointon answered for me! I van find the DAC, but it doesn't look like the one in the 104!
Poynton: The flex cable are all in their socket, was the first thing I checked after I opened the player
For the ICs: I can't access them! I don't know how to open the cage where all the PCBs are in without damaging it! So, if you have an idea on how to get this opened...
I just made some tests. Ok, I have to recognize, nothing professional, but I did with what I have...
A cd with test tones, 2 cd players (the cd 303 and a kenwood for reference) and the vu-meter from my amp (sony TA-F5A btw...). The right channel is lacking about 20% output on the whole spectrum from 30 to 20.000 Hz. When listening to test tones, it just seems to be not as loud as the left one. But when listening to music, it sounds like the right loudspeaker is in a box, damped....
And I cleaned the lens. Better had not... Now the player needs lots of time to find the cd when turned on. Before this it was almost instantaneous!
Poynton: The flex cable are all in their socket, was the first thing I checked after I opened the player
For the ICs: I can't access them! I don't know how to open the cage where all the PCBs are in without damaging it! So, if you have an idea on how to get this opened...
I just made some tests. Ok, I have to recognize, nothing professional, but I did with what I have...
A cd with test tones, 2 cd players (the cd 303 and a kenwood for reference) and the vu-meter from my amp (sony TA-F5A btw...). The right channel is lacking about 20% output on the whole spectrum from 30 to 20.000 Hz. When listening to test tones, it just seems to be not as loud as the left one. But when listening to music, it sounds like the right loudspeaker is in a box, damped....
And I cleaned the lens. Better had not... Now the player needs lots of time to find the cd when turned on. Before this it was almost instantaneous!
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