I have a Marantz CD 6000 OSE around here and have some prolems
playing some CDRs.
Some special tracks i "Skip" to just make the player stop. No problem
with only playing or fastforward them.
When i enter the service mode and skip to them the display
shows "ERROR 7" first and then when it stops "ERROR 10".
It can´t be the VAM1201 Laser Unit cause i just exchanged it.
The CDRs are from same quality and burner.
Any ideas?
playing some CDRs.
Some special tracks i "Skip" to just make the player stop. No problem
with only playing or fastforward them.
When i enter the service mode and skip to them the display
shows "ERROR 7" first and then when it stops "ERROR 10".
It can´t be the VAM1201 Laser Unit cause i just exchanged it.
The CDRs are from same quality and burner.
Any ideas?
Hello Netlist!
When i burn 2 CDs with the same music, lets say 12 tracks, different
CDR manufacturer. I can play the whole CD but skipping directly to track 2
the player always stops with both CDRs. Skipping directly to track 8 works
with both CDRs.
Thats why i asked about the "ERROR XX" description the player shows in
serice mode.
I don´t know what the Philips 6000 is, sorry.
Are you sure the Balll and Bearing is causing this? What can get broken with
these parts? I wish it is that cheap and easy.
Thank you so far
When i burn 2 CDs with the same music, lets say 12 tracks, different
CDR manufacturer. I can play the whole CD but skipping directly to track 2
the player always stops with both CDRs. Skipping directly to track 8 works
with both CDRs.
Thats why i asked about the "ERROR XX" description the player shows in
serice mode.
I don´t know what the Philips 6000 is, sorry.
Are you sure the Balll and Bearing is causing this? What can get broken with
these parts? I wish it is that cheap and easy.
Thank you so far
Wombat said:
A note from Philips says that every player of that type that comes in for service at least shall be given new grease to the ball, and preferably be modified with a new bearing and ball and grease to avoid skipping of tracks and misbehaving of the player.
The price is less than €2 without transport.
Of course there could be other reasons, but this one is very likely
an option. The ball and bearing are weak parts in these players.
What about normal cd’s?
Unfortunately I don’t have access to the error-codes.. maybe someone over here has a service manual.
/Hugo
To be more precise, i have a Philips 753 here and this
Marantz 6000.
I just swapped the VAM1201s between the players and
the Philips plays everything perfectly! Never had
problems with ANY! CDR.Thats why i already concluded
it can´t be the Laserunit. Older CDRs have the same
problems in the 6000. Doesn´t matter who burned them
and what kind of CDR.
well there i spend the first time more money on
a well regarded product and then...
Marantz 6000.
I just swapped the VAM1201s between the players and
the Philips plays everything perfectly! Never had
problems with ANY! CDR.Thats why i already concluded
it can´t be the Laserunit. Older CDRs have the same
problems in the 6000. Doesn´t matter who burned them
and what kind of CDR.
well there i spend the first time more money ona well regarded product and then...
Thank you Netlist for all your effort!!
Sadly it looks like it is a CD6000 Problem in general.
I had a call and it may be possible that the Marantz engineer
that made the program to the Servo implementation just made the wrong
decissions.
Another person just said that there never is a problem with CDRs produced
with his Pioneer Hifi-Burner.
Indeed i have found several CDRs it never stops after skipping. The 6000 just is not tuned for all CDRs.
Maybe the Laserpower is not set as high as in the Philips 753
Sadly it looks like it is a CD6000 Problem in general.
I had a call and it may be possible that the Marantz engineer
that made the program to the Servo implementation just made the wrong
decissions.
Another person just said that there never is a problem with CDRs produced
with his Pioneer Hifi-Burner.
Indeed i have found several CDRs it never stops after skipping. The 6000 just is not tuned for all CDRs.
Maybe the Laserpower is not set as high as in the Philips 753
Check this:
http://www.1388.com/forum/1099/1099.html
Someone over here must be able to help you with the mod.
Elso, Jean-Paul.....others?
/Hugo
http://www.1388.com/forum/1099/1099.html
Someone over here must be able to help you with the mod.
Elso, Jean-Paul.....others?
/Hugo
I just put away the Marantz and took out the beer...
Very good news! If there is only one or 2 parts to swap
it would be great.
I only have to know exactly what...
I don´t think the 6000 has a to bad X-tal but who knows?
I hope somebody looks by here that already has done the Marantz mod
I´ll have some beer and wait
Thanks again all!
Very good news! If there is only one or 2 parts to swap
it would be great.
I only have to know exactly what...
I don´t think the 6000 has a to bad X-tal but who knows?
I hope somebody looks by here that already has done the Marantz mod
I´ll have some beer and wait
Thanks again all!
It would be worthwile to put in there a better 16.9 MHz clock.
I only wanted to do so if everything is fine. At the moment my
somehow modded Philips 753 even sounds better via digital
out than the 6000.
When there isn´t an easy fix i will give it away. I don´t have
an Oscillator at hand at the moment.
I will call a german Marantz servicecenter for more info first.
I already emailed them. Monday when business is back i may know more.
Cheers!
I only wanted to do so if everything is fine. At the moment my
somehow modded Philips 753 even sounds better via digital
out than the 6000.
When there isn´t an easy fix i will give it away. I don´t have
an Oscillator at hand at the moment.
I will call a german Marantz servicecenter for more info first.
I already emailed them. Monday when business is back i may know more.
Cheers!
There comes an idea!
Both, the Philips and the Marantz use the TDA7073A as Servo Driver.
I have the schematics of the Philips around here and the TDA7073 that
is for the focus has some parts in front of the input.
As i already wrote in my introducion i know nothing about electric parts
but do these parts influence the Focustime? Or is it only the SAA7378 that
manages this in front of it? It only makes problems when i "skip"
so a longer seeking/focus time may be the solution.
Cheers, again!
(myself running out of focus also )
Both, the Philips and the Marantz use the TDA7073A as Servo Driver.
I have the schematics of the Philips around here and the TDA7073 that
is for the focus has some parts in front of the input.
As i already wrote in my introducion i know nothing about electric parts
but do these parts influence the Focustime? Or is it only the SAA7378 that
manages this in front of it? It only makes problems when i "skip"
so a longer seeking/focus time may be the solution.
Cheers, again!
(myself running out of focus also
)Re: Resonators & X-tals
Well, my CD-720 that (just?) decided not to like some CR-Rs has three resonators, one 16.93 MHz for the decoder, one of 4 or 4.5 for the tracking processor and one 4 for the main user interface controller.
I doubt that the higher jitteriness of a resonator is high enough to cause timing problems. I have wondered, however, whether both from an audio noise standpoint as well as being sure to get the serial communication between the deviced right it wouldn't be better to clock them synchronously. I believe the 7345 decoder has a 4.2336 MHz clock output.
I can imagine that the communication between 7345 and 1301 may sometimes fail and need a repeat if the two clocks are in a random phase relationship. But at least in my case, the dropouts and skips are always in the same positions of some CD-Rs.
Cobra2 said:I have fixed several different equipment with "bugs"/problems because of bad resonators, those blue or orange 3,58/4/4,5/xxMhz thingies, somethimes with 2 or 3 leads...
Just a tip...
Arne K
Well, my CD-720 that (just?) decided not to like some CR-Rs has three resonators, one 16.93 MHz for the decoder, one of 4 or 4.5 for the tracking processor and one 4 for the main user interface controller.
I doubt that the higher jitteriness of a resonator is high enough to cause timing problems. I have wondered, however, whether both from an audio noise standpoint as well as being sure to get the serial communication between the deviced right it wouldn't be better to clock them synchronously. I believe the 7345 decoder has a 4.2336 MHz clock output.
I can imagine that the communication between 7345 and 1301 may sometimes fail and need a repeat if the two clocks are in a random phase relationship. But at least in my case, the dropouts and skips are always in the same positions of some CD-Rs.
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