Phillips CD player - can I replace a PCB pushbutton switch?

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rwtomkins

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Sorry, beginner's question.

I'm looking at a Phillips-based Mission PCM II CD player and the "play" button isn't very reliable - you often have to stab it twice or three times before it works. I've removed the control panel and underneath, the PCB has an array of identical pushbutton switches that are operated by the corresponding buttons on the fascia. I imagine they're Phillips standard issue - they're just little cubes with a blue circle on the top which pushes in to operate the switch.

Can anyone tell me what these switches are called and whether replacements are still available? I've tried spraying the existing one with De-Oxit but it doesn't make any difference.
 
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rwtomkins

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amc184 said:
Sounds like a tactile switch, which are most certainly still available. Post a picture and I could be sure.
Click to expand...

Thanks, amc184. I've Googled tactile switch and it's certainly that kind of thing. I'll try to photograph it tomorrow evening (Wednesday). In the meantime, like I said, the pushbutton part of the switch is blue. Also, it doesn't protrude upwards beyond the body of the switch, it looks more like a flat disc that pushes in.
 
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rwtomkins

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OK, here sooner than expected is an image (if I can get it to load). Looking more closely, the blue pushbotton does protrude very slightly above the body of the switch, by about 1mm.

If anyone can help me identify these switches, I would be very grateful.
 

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rwtomkins

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stoolpigeon said:
Why not swap the play switch with a less often used one?

You will also find out if it is the switch that's faulty.

But be careful with soldering.

sp
Click to expand...

Yes, an excellent suggestion and one that occurred to me. However, I'm very worried about the soldering - I've no experience doing PCBs - so it's not something I can easily play around with. I was thinking of just getting a new switch and then finding someone who could do the soldering for me. (Hangs head in shame.)
 
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rwtomkins

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stoolpigeon said:
What about first checking the function of the switch by pushing on it directly?

Just be careful if you have the front panel removed that you are not exposed to 240V.

sp
Click to expand...

Hmm, interesting idea - it'll be very awkward because the front panel and the CD drawer are sort of intertwined in such a way that the drawer has to be open when the front panel is off. But I'll have another look at it this evening to see if I can manage it, taking care to avoid electrocuting myself of course.
 
Mooly

Mooly

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They are called "Tact" switches. Some have longer shaft than others, find an old scrap video or something. Use solder braid to remove -- don't overheat them, and read on ohms. They normally read short top to bottom ( I know it depends which way you hold it ) and the switch connects left to right. Just measure one first. In fact just check anyway that there are no dry joints on the switch itself.
 
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rwtomkins

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amc184 said:
I wouldn't swap the switch for one you use less; this is robbing Peter to pay Paul. This switch from Farnell looks to be a suitable replacement, and its hardly costly.
Click to expand...

15p! You must think I'm made of money!

Seriously, thanks very much, it does look a likely candidate. I'll do some measurements when I get home.

Thanks to Mooly as well - getting the multimeter out is a good plan, too.
 
Mooly

Mooly

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Franz & amc184 are absolutely correct saying replace all of them, and they cost peanuts, but whats the minimum order charge.
Why not try asking Mission nicely, you know --how good it's been, but these ere switches keep playing up. Might be cheaper or they might take pity -- worth a try.
 
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rwtomkins

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Mooly said:
Franz & amc184 are absolutely correct saying replace all of them, and they cost peanuts, but whats the minimum order charge.
Why not try asking Mission nicely, you know --how good it's been, but these ere switches keep playing up. Might be cheaper or they might take pity -- worth a try.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately these players were made when Mission was owned by Cyrus, but Mission isn't owned by Cyrus any more and neither company will take any responsibility for them. I know this because I've tried before!
 
Mooly

Mooly

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Hi,
I know from experience these switches are not always standard in size. The plastic button can vary, some are up to 10 mm or so long, and the thickness of the body of the switch can vary. It only needs be a fraction different and the button either will not operate or else the front panel pushes all the switches on. What I would do first is to remove the switch completely, then immerse it in WD40 - that wont do any harm, keep operating the switch many times while submerged. Dry it off with kithen paper. If it still plays up swap it for another (I know :) ) but it will prove it is really at fault.
 
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rwtomkins

Member
Joined 2007
Mooly said:
Hi,
I know from experience these switches are not always standard in size. The plastic button can vary, some are up to 10 mm or so long, and the thickness of the body of the switch can vary. It only needs be a fraction different and the button either will not operate or else the front panel pushes all the switches on. What I would do first is to remove the switch completely, then immerse it in WD40 - that wont do any harm, keep operating the switch many times while submerged. Dry it off with kithen paper. If it still plays up swap it for another (I know :) ) but it will prove it is really at fault.
Click to expand...

I managed to test the switch with the control panel off and the player switched on and it does seem unreliable - most times it operates but sometimes, depending on the pressure and the angle of attack, it can make a little click without operating.

I've already tried De-Oxit butI'll try it again. If that doesn't work, I think I'll do the swap as you suggest. I think it could be very frustrating trying to find a replacement switch that does the job and there are plenty of buttons on the control panel I hardly ever use.
 
Mooly

Mooly

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Let us know how you get on. You need the switch off the player and fully immersed. WD40 does not seem to cause any problems long term, even specialised switch cleaners can affect plastics. Used to be a huge problem in the repair trade years ago.
 
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