Service Manual for Sony CDP C505?

hifi13 · 2008-06-19 7:37 am

hi all,

Just curious if anyone has a service manual for the Sony CDP C505. Looking to do the usual mods, remove muting transistors, swap op amps. Picked it up for 5 bux, wanna see how much I can mod it for little or nothing. Thanks in advance!

Dan

hifi13 · 2008-06-20 7:56 am

Anyone?

Mooly · 2008-06-20 5:55 pm

Can you see what opamps are in it ? Post a pic of the inside around the output stage if you can. There are always ways and means.

hifi13 · 2008-06-21 3:36 am

Will post some pics tomorrow, heading out for the night. Thanks in advance for the help.

hifi13 · 2008-06-22 5:22 pm

Got around to taking the CDP apart and I have attached a shot of the board. Is the op amp the rc4558P or the 5218A? Also which would be the muting transistors there are a few spots on the board that say mute. Any help is much appreciated.

hifi13 · 2008-06-22 5:22 pm

Here's the link to the photo of the board.
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn285/hifi13/016.jpg
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn285/hifi13/pcboard.jpg

Mooly · 2008-06-22 6:25 pm

Hi,
Seen the pics. Not very easy to make out but is it IC502 and 503 that are the M5218A. They are dual OpAmps. So is the 4558 as well. Which is that one ? Is it the single in line one ?
If you want to have a play with swapping these I would suggest fitting 8 pin DIL sockets and trying TLO72 types to begin with. These do at least sound good, suprisingly good actually for what they are. Those two groups of two transistors look as though they could be for muting but can't say for sure without actually tracing the circuit.
Regards Karl

hifi13 · 2008-06-22 6:51 pm

Mooly · 2008-06-22 7:04 pm

Hi,
Your keen posting all those

. I will have a closer look tomorrow, but the TLO72 will be fine. You can go better still but these take some beating and are they stable in use. A lot depends on what the rest of your system is as to whether you feel the changes are worthwhile. Both the 5218 and 4558 are little better than 741 types so I would go ahead !
Have you ever unsoldered any I/C's before -- you need a good iron with a large (ish) tip (Not a poker) and some desoldering braid. I see the word "mute" on the PCB so it looks promising.
I will post again tomorrow all being well.
Regards Karl

hifi13 · 2008-06-22 7:19 pm

Mooly said:
Hi,
Your keen posting all those . I will have a closer look tomorrow, but the TLO72 will be fine. You can go better still but these take some beating and are they stable in use. A lot depends on what the rest of your system is as to whether you feel the changes are worthwhile. Both the 5218 and 4558 are little better than 741 types so I would go ahead !
Have you ever unsoldered any I/C's before -- you need a good iron with a large (ish) tip (Not a poker) and some desoldering braid. I see the word "mute" on the PCB so it looks promising.
I will post again tomorrow all being well.
Regards Karl

Thanks for looking Carl and for all of your suggestions. I really appreciate it! I have unsoldered before and feel confident I could put in the new op amps.

hifi13 · 2008-06-22 9:30 pm

Mooly said:
Hi,
Your keen posting all those . I will have a closer look tomorrow, but the TLO72 will be fine. You can go better still but these take some beating and are they stable in use. A lot depends on what the rest of your system is as to whether you feel the changes are worthwhile. Both the 5218 and 4558 are little better than 741 types so I would go ahead !
Have you ever unsoldered any I/C's before -- you need a good iron with a large (ish) tip (Not a poker) and some desoldering braid. I see the word "mute" on the PCB so it looks promising.
I will post again tomorrow all being well.
Regards Karl

What would be better than the TLO72's? Would I use TLO72 in both 5218 and 4558?

Mooly · 2008-06-23 7:57 am

Hi,
I have always had good results with the OPA2604. It does definitely sound musical. Having said that the TLO72 is still an excellent performer in applications like this. There are really dozens of types to choose from, but you need to be sure that they are what is called "unity gain stable". Looking at the pics of the PCB show they are connected with the output pin and inverting input joined ( gain of 1 or unity). If you have to order any make sure you get the 8 pin D.I.L. (Dual in line) type. Don't worry about any other letters after the number -- just that it is D.I.L.
IC502 is the final output I/C and Pin 1 and Pin 7 are the two outputs (left and right channels). Q501/502 and 551/552 appear to be mute transistors. Before you swap any I/C's try it with these removed and see if you can live with any switch on/off noises produced. Another thing I spotted is the supplies to the OpAmp. +/- 5 volts is a low value (nothing you can do about that) but that limits still further the choice of OpAmp. The two I mentioned will be fine on this. If you have a meter, with the player switched on but NO disc playing read the DC volts from the ground of the output sockets ( no other ground ) and pin 1 and pin 7 of IC502. It should be zero. If it really is zero to within say 5 or 10 millivolts you could try linking out the electrolytic coupling caps C503 and C553 that go to these pins.
Regards Karl

Edit You can use different I/C's in each location if you want to experiment as long as they are a suitable type.

hifi13 · 2008-06-24 12:24 am

Mooly said:
Hi,
I have always had good results with the OPA2604. It does definitely sound musical. Having said that the TLO72 is still an excellent performer in applications like this. There are really dozens of types to choose from, but you need to be sure that they are what is called "unity gain stable". Looking at the pics of the PCB show they are connected with the output pin and inverting input joined ( gain of 1 or unity). If you have to order any make sure you get the 8 pin D.I.L. (Dual in line) type. Don't worry about any other letters after the number -- just that it is D.I.L.
IC502 is the final output I/C and Pin 1 and Pin 7 are the two outputs (left and right channels). Q501/502 and 551/552 appear to be mute transistors. Before you swap any I/C's try it with these removed and see if you can live with any switch on/off noises produced. Another thing I spotted is the supplies to the OpAmp. +/- 5 volts is a low value (nothing you can do about that) but that limits still further the choice of OpAmp. The two I mentioned will be fine on this. If you have a meter, with the player switched on but NO disc playing read the DC volts from the ground of the output sockets ( no other ground ) and pin 1 and pin 7 of IC502. It should be zero. If it really is zero to within say 5 or 10 millivolts you could try linking out the electrolytic coupling caps C503 and C553 that go to these pins.
Regards Karl

Edit You can use different I/C's in each location if you want to experiment as long as they are a suitable type.

I can't thank you enough for all your help Mooly, I am off to take out the muting resistors, I will report back soon...

hifi13 · 2008-06-27 6:10 am

Update

Just finished removing the muting transistors and I have to say it really made a difference. Seems like more space around the instruments, more clarity, like someone wiped a dirty window and you can 'see' farther into the music, if that makes sense. I wasn't expecting a big difference, but to my ears there is a difference. Thanks to everyone and extra thanks to mooly for all your help. I am now off to try and find some op amps, hopefully I can find some in Canada near by. I will report back once I do. If I can't find any here can you recommend a good place to buy parts?

Mooly · 2008-06-27 7:17 am

Good to here that. The OpAmps will make far more difference I suspect. Keep us informed

Service Manual for Sony CDP C505?

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