Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

here you got :
10pc Aluminium Knob KNB 068 Interlock Push Button Switch ?8X14 5mm Color Silver | eBay
there you can find also black ones
sticked them with double sided adhesive foam tape to the black buttons on the PCBs
there are also some nice boxes one of them I've used for power supply unit
here you got link for real bargain cheap transformers that i've bouth 2 for 50$ (make offer) shipped free!!!
Dual 12V 50W AC Power Supply Transformer AC220V Input AC12V 0 AC12V 50W Output | eBay

all the best
Nicu
 
Hi all,

I had emailed Tibi today if he had sent the parts and stood there the postman, Tibi thanks ;)
I soldered everything directly and now plays the Vicol Shiga.

First, a few weeks listening before I go to judge about the qualities.
So don’t ask now how this sounds … ;)

Am now a video to upload and sorry about the poor quality.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTTyxom9tg4

Regards,
Rudy
 
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nbivol, Can you post a couple more of pics of the innards?

Today I opened to connect the LED on the front panel and I was able to make some better pictures
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Here you can see controller PCB separated from motors mech and standing on own standoffs ,just about 1mm below motors
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other side
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let's give to our pannel led some power (gray/orange cable)
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put on the cover pannel
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back view ,pretty sexy :D
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4 screws for join cover to bottom pannel (see corners)
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just before to put on sides plates and push buttons
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push buttons
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et voila, here is my Shiga
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Cheers,
Nicu
 
Very nice pics an great end results..;)

If you have to take it apart in future you might want to skip all the metal rings (to bring the print up to height) one ring and an extra nut underneath will suffice...or just a small block of wood..no big deal..just a thought :)

Great box to put it in...And good move to seperate the boards...you get a big reward soundwise.
 
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Very nice nbivol... very very nice.... :)

My changes for today include elimination of the female RCA socket and direct soldering of the interconnect to the pcb. That was a biggy...

The small heatsinks on the Salas BiB were running pretty roasty, so I changed them for a nice big heatsink that just yawns at the temperatures developed on the fets...

I have also changed the Dale 100R-300R L pad on the output with two resistors I made out of 42AWG res wire (the body is wenge and insulation and vibration damping is natural bee's wax). I was surprised to discover that they perform slightly better than the Dales... Even with such a fast and crude construction with no attention to inductance or capacitance whatsoever... Definitely worth further exploring...

I also changed the CAT5 twisted pair wire I used as interconnect with a 100R twin coaxial wire featuring nordost dual microfilament technology. I don t know if I like the change though...

Here is a photo of what it looks like...

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You can see the tight layout around the 7808. Now that I got the bee's wax i m also tempted to try the electrolytic mod... We ll see... Some times I am even considering molding everything in wax :)

One thing I will start doing in a few days is replace all the wiring with proper good quality wire eliminating the white connectors.
But I have to start routing the final chassis first and decide the final layout before I finalize the cabling...
 

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Just a note. For anyone working on a wood enclosure who needs to use a wood filler to fix any problems, I highly recommend the Famowood brand of wood filler. I used this particular version

Amazon.com: Famowood Water-Based 3.25-Ounce Tube Natural Adhesive: Arts, Crafts & Sewing

It is much better than the Minwax, DAP, or Elmer's equivalents (I tried all of these). All of those products IME take stain very poorly, creating a very bad match with the natural wood after the stain is applied. The Famowood takes stain beautifully, creating a very close match to the stain on the natural wood. It is also an excellent, easy to work with filler. Applies easily, dries quickly, and can be easily sanded and shaped.

I have no relationship to the company.
 
Guys I was just reading about the output attenuator and playing around with calculators.
Has anyone tried a T-pad instead of a Pi-pad?

The resistor values for the T-pad with 50R input and 75R output are significantly smaller (23.898R in, 52.266R out and 32.836 shunt), so they should behave better because of the shorter resistance wire and should be cheaper as well. Not to mention that we have less resistance in series with the signal. I think it s worth exploring...

Oh and Dale carries these values in RN55 and RN60 series :)
 
The display was adjusted for the source I sent to you. If you have used separate power supply, than the LCD bias was changed. I suggest you to power the LCD from a separate PS, trough a 5K-10K potentiometer.
A linear multiturn is recommended.
As the LCD is multiplexed, you need to adjust LC78601 pin 40 potential trough pot cursor.
One pot leg at +5V one at GND and middle (cursor) to LC78601 pin 40.
LCD working voltage is 4.8V. Try to get around this potential.
This will allow you to adjust contrast as you like.

Regards,
Tibi

Tibi, I need a better explanation for this. Are you saying that I need to get 4.8V at LC78601 pin 40, or at the input to the LCD board?

Or is all of the above only if I was using a different supply for the LCD?

Is there a point on either the backside of the PCB (where the chips are) or on the LCD board where I can measure this bias voltage? I mean a point other than the chip itself. I don't trust myself with the probes I have to touch any of the leads on that chip. I'm afraid of shorting to another pin.

Is it the bias voltage that determines the optimum "angle of view" for the LCD segments?
 
By the way, the pdf of LC78601 suggests a minimum Vout of 0,9V at 12mA. Is there a chance we are killing too much signal with the 12db attenuator?
Especially when dropping its input impedance to 50R? Could we have a bigger voltage drop in the line than anticipated? The pdf does not specify that 12mA is the max rating, only a rough 300mW max dissipation for the entire chip and a 50mA max drain IDD for the Vin pins.

The 12mA make sense for the 0,9V (pdf minimum high Vout) for 75R input impedance (ohm s law).
If the Vout is actually closer to 2V, then for 75R we would draw around 26mA
and for 50R ~50mA which is pretty close to the max power drain of the chip IDD. So is it possible to have voltage drop below the 0,5V that we want?
 
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I have replaced the L-pad with a T-pad attenuator with 75R in and 75R out impedances....

Values are 45R series, 40R shunt, 45R series, again made out of resistance wire wrapped around pieces of wenge and then sealed in raw beeswax.

OK... This transport is just redonkulous...
The change was... WOW!!!!

The biggest problem for me till now was that mids had no clarity. More polite ones like violins were okish, but snare drums for example felt a bit... muted? A bit plastic? Now I can hear them nice and fast and sharp...
Echoes and other spacial sounds are also spooky now... snare drum, piano, guitar, everything now seems to reverb in the room.... amazing...

Although sometimes highs seem a bit overly rough, but at this point, I tend to believe that this is probably because of the PRP resistors on the output of my DCB1, or the rather fresh FT3 output caps...
 
Tibi, I need a better explanation for this. Are you saying that I need to get 4.8V at LC78601 pin 40, or at the input to the LCD board?

Or is all of the above only if I was using a different supply for the LCD?

Is there a point on either the backside of the PCB (where the chips are) or on the LCD board where I can measure this bias voltage? I mean a point other than the chip itself. I don't trust myself with the probes I have to touch any of the leads on that chip. I'm afraid of shorting to another pin.

Is it the bias voltage that determines the optimum "angle of view" for the LCD segments?

Ah, I found that nice little test pad for Pin 40 on the chip side of the board. It reads 4.89V.
 
By the way, the pdf of LC78601 suggests a minimum Vout of 0,9V at 12mA. Is there a chance we are killing too much signal with the 12db attenuator?
Especially when dropping its input impedance to 50R? Could we have a bigger voltage drop in the line than anticipated? The pdf does not specify that 12mA is the max rating, only a rough 300mW max dissipation for the entire chip and a 50mA max drain IDD for the Vin pins.

The 12mA make sense for the 0,9V (pdf minimum high Vout) for 75R input impedance (ohm s law).
If the Vout is actually closer to 2V, then for 75R we would draw around 26mA
and for 50R ~50mA which is pretty close to the max power drain of the chip IDD. So is it possible to have voltage drop below the 0,5V that we want?

Fran's experiments with attenuators suggest that it might be desirable to actually have more attenuation than the commonly accepted 12dB. He ended up favouring 25dB and 0.25V output level - although this may be too low to work perfectly with some DACs.
 
Yeah I guess the signal V level performance is pretty much DAC dependent... It s a trial/error situation specific to everyone's rig. By the way, I would expect average DMMs to "average" voltages in the DC setting, so I would expect the actual signal to be higher than its reading...
I ll try to get a proper reading with my scope to verify this.

My main concern was about the 50R in the input of the attenuator and how it might affect the ability of the chip to provide adequate square under a load twice as hard and the possibility of extra reflections because of the mismatch in the transmission line, especially if the attenuator is not close to the board and close to an RCA socket.
 
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