Today I made the preparations for the three clocks.
I made use of my own Shiga testboard...the Mini PiTbull is too Mini for this
I use miniature plugs so I can switch quite easy....keep you informed...
I made use of my own Shiga testboard...the Mini PiTbull is too Mini for this
I use miniature plugs so I can switch quite easy....keep you informed...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Looking forward to your observations Erik.
I want to add an AES output to my transport. I have found this drawing for a circuit and would like to know if it will work.
http://vantageaudio.com/photo/spdif.jpg
I also found several drawings with just a transformer between the two but it only seems to work the other way AES-->S/PDIF.
This is more for experimentation than anything else.
I want to add an AES output to my transport. I have found this drawing for a circuit and would like to know if it will work.
http://vantageaudio.com/photo/spdif.jpg
I also found several drawings with just a transformer between the two but it only seems to work the other way AES-->S/PDIF.
This is more for experimentation than anything else.
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At the last minute a fourth clock will also be tested...
The EZ Ultimate from DIY supply...
http://www.diyhifisupply.com/node/583
I will not test the original resonator or the citizen..I have listened quite a few evenings to both of them......they both sound nice but that is (for me....in my set up....to my ears...blah blah blah) about it.
The EZ Ultimate from DIY supply...
http://www.diyhifisupply.com/node/583
I will not test the original resonator or the citizen..I have listened quite a few evenings to both of them......they both sound nice but that is (for me....in my set up....to my ears...blah blah blah) about it.
Uncle Leon,
I have asked my audiobuddy to give your pi-pad sugestion a try
So he did put an extra 100 ohm (I think he uses Allen Bradleys) as shunt in.
He mailed me enthousiastically his music became "cleaner" more " pin point" and "more resolution" those were his exact words....
Cannot wait to try it out myself now....since I think of him as a very good observer
I have asked my audiobuddy to give your pi-pad sugestion a try
So he did put an extra 100 ohm (I think he uses Allen Bradleys) as shunt in.
He mailed me enthousiastically his music became "cleaner" more " pin point" and "more resolution" those were his exact words....
Cannot wait to try it out myself now....since I think of him as a very good observer
I will gladly believe that but I run out of time already....
However if you have them for sale I am your man...
Too bad I hadn't known that you would be interested when I was sending you the stuff for testing. I do have a wood-mod "demo" capacitor pair, i.e. both the same type but one wood-modded and the other one original. I don't really keep any modded caps in stock, I only do the mod on request as it's a lot of work, but I can certainly mod your caps for you if you like.
Uncle Leon,
I have asked my audiobuddy to give your pi-pad sugestion a try
So he did put an extra 100 ohm (I think he uses Allen Bradleys) as shunt in.
He mailed me enthousiastically his music became "cleaner" more " pin point" and "more resolution" those were his exact words....
Cannot wait to try it out myself now....since I think of him as a very good observer
Usually adding components that are not necessary only makes things worse so I am amazed that my resistor actually improved the sound lol... I am certainly glad to hear he liked it, even in this sub-optimal scenario - but if he thought adding one on top of an Allen-Bradleys was such a noticeable improvement, then he will be positively blown away when both are installed properly
Now, on an unrelated note - I have just done some transformer comparisons. I compared my custom 300VA toroid against a 60VA R-core, and... the R-core was clearly better. The sound was cleaner with improved detail and definition.
As the toroid is a massively over-spec'd 300VA audio grade unit with all the possible bells and whistles, I think it can be safely assumed from this comparison that no toroid can conceivably beat an R-core in a Shigaclone. Of course, this does not mean that R-cores are the best possible choice, as other trafo types (such as the Hammonds recommended by Peter) could turn out to be even better.
Uncle Leon, I do not know if you got me right the first time but my friend went from an Allen Bradley 300/100 combo to your pi suggestion so only adding another 100 Allen Bradley to the other two Bradleys...
I did not lend "your stuff" to him
Btw received the naked vishays today 100 was okay but a 390 instead of 330 ohm grrrrrrrrr
I did not lend "your stuff" to him
Btw received the naked vishays today 100 was okay but a 390 instead of 330 ohm grrrrrrrrr
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I posted some old-school Shigaclone goodies here:
DIY Shigaclone Black Gate Capacitors Caddock Resistors Nude Vishay Shigaraki | eBay
Been a while since I caught up with this project, perhaps lots has changed, but perhaps these parts could benefit someone out there...
DIY Shigaclone Black Gate Capacitors Caddock Resistors Nude Vishay Shigaraki | eBay
Been a while since I caught up with this project, perhaps lots has changed, but perhaps these parts could benefit someone out there...
Uncle Leon, I do not know if you got me right the first time but my friend went from an Allen Bradley 300/100 combo to your pi suggestion so only adding another 100 Allen Bradley to the other two Bradleys...
I did not lend "your stuff" to him
Btw received the naked vishays today 100 was okay but a 390 instead of 330 ohm grrrrrrrrr
Aaah, that is interesting. So perhaps Pi-pad itself is more influential than having exact 75-Ohm impedance... I admit I have never tried any other Pi-pad variants (a massive oversight, now that I think of it).
Incidentally, guys from audiostereo.pl have recently come up with another output suggestion. Based on the assumption that the output signal has a wave form, and the fact that wave impedance of the chip is not 75ohm, but 50ohm, this solution has been suggested:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It is a T-pad with 50ohm input and 75ohm output impedance. T-pad is a close relative to Pi-pad and they can be converted into one another using Y-Δ transform. I believe the equivalent Pi-pad would be: Shunt in 77.1ohm, Series 87.1ohm, Shunt out 207.4. So far, there are no reports as to the audible benefit (or lack thereof) when compared with other output terminations, so at this point it is just another potential route to try.
Hi
At the moment I am using a few months now the T pad in my own dac of 150 ohm serie and 150 ohm shunt of the naked Vishay sound beautiful....
I will test your homemade resistors in due time in that place (as well as the Mini Pitbull for my friend) and will report...
If the results are better I ll buy them but you might have to send me 100 ohm for the P- pad configs
At the moment I am using a few months now the T pad in my own dac of 150 ohm serie and 150 ohm shunt of the naked Vishay sound beautiful....
I will test your homemade resistors in due time in that place (as well as the Mini Pitbull for my friend) and will report...
If the results are better I ll buy them but you might have to send me 100 ohm for the P- pad configs
Hi Guys,
On the dutch forum I typed a long story about the evaluation of the three clocks implemented.
Let me begin with the Clear Winner....Dexa Neutron Star Reference Clock.
The difference between the Trichord 4 I call "huge" there is much less difference between the Tent and the Trichord with most of the time the Trichord as favorite.
I used the new Barber cd and listened to a few tracks the grandeur of the Dexa stands out and to me the results where so crystal clear (nice way of putting it) that I will buy one extra to implement in my own PiTbull.
I would advise to audtion one yourself if you are in the marked since the Dexa has a 30 day return policy...because this is just my opinion (and a person can always be wrong
).......
yes you have to make a 5V connection on the Dexa instead of the 3.3V default setting.
You can do so by a tiny piece of solder on a marked spot between the blue leds.
Besides this I would personally ditch the Micro-plug and the signal plug connections and make solderconnections on the board with a nice wire.
Furthermore I would choose a flexible connection for the clockprint.
That is about it.
BTW I do not know what you mean by a following (clock)report....this pretty much sums it up.
You can do so by a tiny piece of solder on a marked spot between the blue leds.
Besides this I would personally ditch the Micro-plug and the signal plug connections and make solderconnections on the board with a nice wire.
Furthermore I would choose a flexible connection for the clockprint.
That is about it.
BTW I do not know what you mean by a following (clock)report....this pretty much sums it up.
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That Dexa clock is very expensive, so it had better be really good, because at this price point I would begin to consider atomic clocks...
It is THAT good...
Anyway I am open minded...so if you know any DIY-er on earth with such an atomic clock...
I have been asking around for the last two years on internet...and I only came via Australie on a japanese implemented it who does not correspond...
Since the clock-outcome was crystal clear and easily available in minutes I experimented with your resistors...GREAT SUCCES
First I implemented the 100 Ohm as a Shunt replacing a naked Vishay..in a winning Pi-Pad config....yours made more music it was even simple to notice....
After that me and my audiomate (who had the same opinion) went to your resistor 300 Ohm for serie and 100 Ohm for shunt althought I had no extra 100 ohm of yours at hand to make a Pi-Pad your combo was the star of the evening...we later on added a Vishay to your combo this time a Pi-Pad config and that was just a little bit better...so I need to buy a couple of your resistors to make a Pi-Pad...
I would love to get my hands on some more of your 300 and 100 Ohm resistors could you PM me I want to pay for your stuff I received etc.......they STAY
I will post soon a few pics and do some more experimenting with your stuff...this forum is slightly ahead of the dutch where I post and then link to.....
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