Hi John,
I built a shigaclone a few years ago from Peter's instructions (heavy chassis and mounting the mech on two supports). I couldn't believe how much more information it dragged off the cd compared to a standard mech. I have tried it at several bake offs and every time I am amazed by the difference. I know that hasn't exactly answered your question but hope it gives you an idea of the difference a good transport can make.
I built a shigaclone a few years ago from Peter's instructions (heavy chassis and mounting the mech on two supports). I couldn't believe how much more information it dragged off the cd compared to a standard mech. I have tried it at several bake offs and every time I am amazed by the difference. I know that hasn't exactly answered your question but hope it gives you an idea of the difference a good transport can make.
An answer to your question can be infered from earlier comparisons:
"Old Shiga" was considered on par with high-end transports, with heavily-tweaked Shiga builds actually beating most of commercial high-end, and falling just short of the legendary CEC TL0: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/audio-sector/160373-cd-transport.html#post2069010 (Peter Daniel says here Shiga was as good, but later he decided that his CLC T0 was better after all)
The new Shiga is, according to Fran, clearly better than a well-tweaked "old Shiga": http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/120229-finally-affordable-cd-transport-shigaclone-story-130.html#post3245366.
This concerns Tibi's kit as it is? With kit transformer and everything?
Hi Uncle Leon
Peter Daniels compared shiga with CEC TL-0 and Mark Levinson 37 Mods
used Hammond, BGF 1000uf 35v, BG Std 1000uf 50v and BGN 47uf 50v.
Then a new invention output modul and new + 5v module reported has
increase performance of the shigaclone but never compared with other
The output modul take from CEC TL-0 output and citizen crystal mods
came from Romy The Cats website about the CEC TL0 - citizen crystal
picture output modul taken from
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/audio-sector/160373-cd-transport.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...rdable-cd-transport-shigaclone-story-387.html
picture +5v regulator taken from
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...rdable-cd-transport-shigaclone-story-470.html
Erik van Voorst has compared with THETA DATA and the next adventure
he tried to show us : Another Audio Galaxy For Us From the Shigaclone.
As I know the old shigaclone best performance caused of "chinese" caps
which not include on the new shigaclone reinvention and Frans reported
compared the old and the new one
well, looks like we must wait for a view time for another comparation
from Cee Vee or Peter Daniel Maybe
Attachments
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Peter Daniel no longer uses, or recommends, reclocking: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/120229-finally-affordable-cd-transport-shigaclone-story-86.html#post2482274
The main point is, the original Shigaclone was comparable with high-end transports, and the new one is even better.
The main point is, the original Shigaclone was comparable with high-end transports, and the new one is even better.
Hi uncle_leon,
I haven't recieved the new one yet so i have not been able to compare, have you ?
I will also be comparing with my other solution for a source:
QA550 SD card reader with i2S connected DAC and sync clock ie: dac clock is fed to the reader as well.
ofcourse original QA550C clock was removed.
Sounds amazing.
I have compared the new kit (unmounted, sitting on plywood, straight kit contents) and 2 original shiga transports. One shiga is fully tricked out with blakgates, reclocking, the whole 9 yards. The other shiga follows the more recent simpler recommendations, except it is powered by a awlsr power supply.
The new kit sounds better to my ears than both shigas, with more depth of soundstage and what appears to be better resolution. The full blown shiga slightly beats the newer simpler shiga, but it's close.
Dacs used were a buffalo with all shunt supplies, Peters nos premium dac, pass d1 clone and EUVL 9022 dac.
I haven't compared the new shiga directly with high end transports because of the various dacs, etc etc that are involved. However I have compared the older shiga + buffalo combination with some very nice cdps like wadia 851,lector, resolution audio and opus. That system was at least as good as these players.
Long and short of it is the new shiga is a high end transport, I would recommend buying it pre built.
Fran
The new kit sounds better to my ears than both shigas, with more depth of soundstage and what appears to be better resolution. The full blown shiga slightly beats the newer simpler shiga, but it's close.
Dacs used were a buffalo with all shunt supplies, Peters nos premium dac, pass d1 clone and EUVL 9022 dac.
I haven't compared the new shiga directly with high end transports because of the various dacs, etc etc that are involved. However I have compared the older shiga + buffalo combination with some very nice cdps like wadia 851,lector, resolution audio and opus. That system was at least as good as these players.
Long and short of it is the new shiga is a high end transport, I would recommend buying it pre built.
Fran
Thanks Frans for so much info.
I am waiting for on prebuilt and one full kit for a little playing around
But i have plans set up, case fully designed to try and do justice to this great project...even though of late I'm investing a lot on 2 card readers, the already mentioned QA550 with EUVL sync dac and SDtrans for hires and DSD files.
Will be nice to see where this project stands sound wise.
Although the old one is already really enjoyable with really good power supplies.
My reference is a Shanling heavily moded with new IVs developed with mighty ZM and i can tell you that amazing as it is now, the Shiga does make me wonder which is best , so if as you say the new one is better...now i'm really anticipating the moment it plays here...
I am waiting for on prebuilt and one full kit for a little playing around
But i have plans set up, case fully designed to try and do justice to this great project...even though of late I'm investing a lot on 2 card readers, the already mentioned QA550 with EUVL sync dac and SDtrans for hires and DSD files.
Will be nice to see where this project stands sound wise.
Although the old one is already really enjoyable with really good power supplies.
My reference is a Shanling heavily moded with new IVs developed with mighty ZM
and i can tell you that amazing as it is now, the Shiga does make me wonder which is best , so if as you say the new one is better...now i'm really anticipating the moment it plays here...
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I started working on the kit today.
I was really tired and soldering those metal headers to the tiny cables was a real PITA. Plus the metal thingies were less than required, so I called it a day and I ll try to get some ready ones tomorrow.... I really CBA these days to do more work than required
The PSU gives 7,9V. I ll try to get it on the scope tomorrow and see if I ll keep it like this or try some stuff.
Small thought on it though. Blue leds are noisy, so a red one might be more appropriate since we are going for high-end stuff.
I am also working on a chassis for it and the remote. I ll post more when I find the time to work on them.
Quick question. What kind of battery is required for Tibi's remote?
I was really tired and soldering those metal headers to the tiny cables was a real PITA. Plus the metal thingies were less than required, so I called it a day and I ll try to get some ready ones tomorrow.... I really CBA these days to do more work than required
The PSU gives 7,9V. I ll try to get it on the scope tomorrow and see if I ll keep it like this or try some stuff.
Small thought on it though. Blue leds are noisy, so a red one might be more appropriate since we are going for high-end stuff.
I am also working on a chassis for it and the remote. I ll post more when I find the time to work on them.
Quick question. What kind of battery is required for Tibi's remote?
Hi Tvicol,
Hi,
After received my fully built unit for one month and sorry that I only have spent 1 week on it since there are too many projects involve.
I have encountered some problem with the laser mechanism.
1. Initial startup with the laser mounted on four screws, played few CDs without problem but having trouble playing SACD combo and direct cut CD (CD-rom), not home made one.
2. The laser starts to became less stable on the second day, when starts up while trying to read normal CD, the head seems to keep trying to focus and hitting the CD while spinning and bouncing off which also damaged the CD by putting scratches on it.
3. Discovered that when the unit first powered up, the laser will automatically try to read the CD, if you don’t have any CD in place, you should never place puck on top when powering it up, the laser head/lenses will keep hitting the puck while trying to read the CD until the read gets timeout.
4. I removed 1 mounting screw see if the mounting tension was too much on the laser mechanism but nothing change and still having the problem on the laser.
5. Now most CD cannot be read correctly and unlock happens frequently even on the CD that plays and sometime cause the laser to stop.
6. The temperature was measured to be 60C + on the PCB section right underneath the back side of LA6541, so I think I will need a heatsink for that, the unit was not in any enclosure.
Any idea what went wrong ? Could the Laser be faulty? Should I order a new laser replacement and try again?
Thanks
Hi,
After received my fully built unit for one month and sorry that I only have spent 1 week on it since there are too many projects involve.
I have encountered some problem with the laser mechanism.
1. Initial startup with the laser mounted on four screws, played few CDs without problem but having trouble playing SACD combo and direct cut CD (CD-rom), not home made one.
2. The laser starts to became less stable on the second day, when starts up while trying to read normal CD, the head seems to keep trying to focus and hitting the CD while spinning and bouncing off which also damaged the CD by putting scratches on it.
3. Discovered that when the unit first powered up, the laser will automatically try to read the CD, if you don’t have any CD in place, you should never place puck on top when powering it up, the laser head/lenses will keep hitting the puck while trying to read the CD until the read gets timeout.
4. I removed 1 mounting screw see if the mounting tension was too much on the laser mechanism but nothing change and still having the problem on the laser.
5. Now most CD cannot be read correctly and unlock happens frequently even on the CD that plays and sometime cause the laser to stop.
6. The temperature was measured to be 60C + on the PCB section right underneath the back side of LA6541, so I think I will need a heatsink for that, the unit was not in any enclosure.
Any idea what went wrong ? Could the Laser be faulty? Should I order a new laser replacement and try again?
Thanks
Hi Tibi,
That was the first thing that I check, it was firm and secur. I have order another laser mechanic to try.
Thanks